Recent content by Towpack

If there is water in the diff, the first thing out of the drain plug hole should be water, or possibly an emulsified oil/water mix. If it's clean oil then I think you can safely assume there's no water in there.

If water has got into the diff casing and enough to raise the oil level enough to throw it out of the breather, the diff will wear rapidly. I hope that's not the case. An immediate drain, inspection and flush/refill is imperative.

The top one is battery discharge warning, ie, the battery isn't being charged by the alternator. A simple cause of this is broken or no alternator drive belts along with more serious problems of course. The bottom light is clogged air filter warning. Don't you have an Owner's Manual?

They just pull out. There should be a removal tool clipped to the underside of the fusebox lid, mine disappeared years ago. The W/R wire goes to the ign switch.

I dropped on this website for some reason, read point No.3 regarding diesel sales and thought "flippineck!". After I'd posted I realised it was just a proposal from a Policy Forum member! Labour Policy Forum

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All ISP's provide web based Email by default where emails are stored on their server. On top of that you can use a PC based mail program like Windows Outlook or Mac mail etc which can be setup to store emails on your hard drive. If you don't want to do that then Lorin's suggestion is the...

The squeek or "chirp" at idle from the clutch release arm reappeared this week so got underneath to lube the release arm pivot. Should be OK another several thousand miles.:thumbup:

That's an OEM 80 series breather, I had one on mine until I extended it. You need a two way valve on the breathers that pass air but block water, not a one way or pressure buildup in the axle/gearbox casing can force oil past seals.

On a 80 series the idle up is triggered electrically when the AC is operating (pump clutch engaged) and a vacuum actuator opens the throttle slightly. It's not an "intelligent" setup" with any sort of load sensing, it's purely on/off. The power steering idle ip works in the same way.

To be sure in your own mind it looks like you going to have break out the micrometer and the Plastiguage to check for ovality and the running clearance. A bit of a faff but it's what your mechanic would have done if he was in the same situation.

If you can't see or feel any damage on the crank pin I'd say just go with new bearings. Compared to the crank pins, bearing metal is quite soft and sacrificial.

On the 1HD-FT in the 80 series, the fuel filter warning light is operated by a float switch screwed into the base of the filter.

Between nothing and 1kg.