LJ70 Build Thread!

[Ben]

I'd forgotten what an absolute pleasure it is to buy parts off Simon Holten using the club discount.

I emailed him a part number requesting a price and availability. Within 10 minutes I'd got an email back with a very good price. Quick 2 minute phone call and the part is ordered and paid for and will be delivered to me within a few days.

http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forums/showthread.php/45097-Simon-Holton-Gen-Toyota-Parts

 

[Ben]

Simpson Trip Preparations.

When I get back to Melbourne I wont have much time to finish preping LJ for the big trip so I'm just working out what I still need to buy now.

When I get back I will order 4 of these:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BFG-MUD-...=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d1a1de1e

One of these for above the back door:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SUPA-PEG.../321462524693?pt=AU_Tents&hash=item4ad8a8db15

With that purchased I will be able to get the roof rack finished, powder coated and fitted.

Then I will have some where to store this:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OZTENT-R.../331274240233?pt=AU_Tents&hash=item4d217bc0e9

Do I need to purchase anything else for the RV4? I know theres lots of other bits that I could buy for it but not sure whats really necessary.

I'm building up quite a comprehensive spares package to carry with me including:

Front wheel bearing kits x2.
Spare rad hoses.
Spare fan belts.
Complete spare prop shaft with decent UJ's (front prop fits either front or back)
Fuel filters x2.
Oil filter x1.
Fuel hose + straight connectors and clamps.
Spare engine oil x5litres which can be used in engine, gearbox, transfercase, diffs and power steering.
Spare brake fluid.
+bolts, clamps, cable ties, ratchet straps etc.

Anything else spare wise I should think about carrying?

I need to finish the drawer system and rear side panels with storage boxes.

Fit new rear shocks.

Finish the rear bar and get it shot blast, electroplated and powder coated.

Finish the roof rack.

+ get the electrics done. The auto electrician will do all the work for me but I need to order all the bits.

I did want to build and fit an aux fuel tank and I still might, but where I wanted to fit it, above the rear axle will prevent me from converting the rear to 4 link as thats where the 4th link will be. So for this trip I will just carry 3 jerry cans..

 

[Paddler Ed]

Just heard about this Ben; can't remember if you like Nimbin or not, but thought it might be of interest given your love of Byron Bay.

 

[Chas]

That brings back memories of the hostel in Childers.

 

[Ben]

Just heard about this Ben; can't remember if you like Nimbin or not, but thought it might be of interest given your love of Byron Bay.

No I hadnt heard. That is incredibly sad!!!

That museum was a really interesting place packed full of a lot of interesting irreplaceable items.

 

[Olazz]

Ben, why carry a spare prop? Are they a weak point on 70's?
I also carry spare wheel studs, seen many snap with big wheels.
Don't forget spare fuses
Spare tyre valves

 

[Ben]

Not necessarily a weak point but I dont fancy trying to change a uni joint at the side of the track if one should fail. I've got a spare prop so figured as it fits both front and rear I could fit new uni's and just carry it as a spare.

The uni's on the props that are currently fitted seem fine, so I don't really want to change them yet. But.................they could fail in x amount of k's and leave me stranded.

I'm going to change the rear wheel bearings before the trip. They dont need doing but thats one job that definitely cant be done at the side of the track, requiring angle grinders and a big press. So I will change them for peace of mind. But coming back to the prop uni's, its where you draw the line regarding changing stuff encase it fails even though it doesnt need replacing.

When I get back I've got a little over 4 weeks to get LJ ready for the trip and theres a ridiculous amount of work to get done!

 

[Ben]

I'm Home!!!

Finally home!

Going back to the UK made me realise that I 100% made the right decision moving out here, the UK no longer feels like home.

I've come back incredibly focused on where I'm going and what I need to do to get there.

Rough plan is this year focus on getting LJ some what finished (hopefully).

Than at Christmas I'm going to buy myself a top of the range TIG welder. I want this one:

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/tig/product.php?model=M00389

Then next year concentrate on my welding and practice heaps at home, work and TAFE until I'm competent enough to pass the big exam.

Than I can go to the mines.

Anyway.....................................................

Lets get this thread back on track.

Heres a few bits I picked up while I was in the UK.

Spare hoses, belts and a replacement set of clocks



I also got some Hi-lift bits.



The wheel mate will be especially useful for lifting individual wheels so I can slide waffle boards under.

Within 2 hours of getting home today (8am) I was working on LJ.

First job was to get Erins old Toyota out of the garage and get LJ moved over.



Quite a chilly winters day, but LJ fired up within half a turn of the key.



First job was to remove the 37's and put the 35's back on.







I'd spoken to the guy at the tyre place on ebay and hed said he could do it cheaper if I avoided ebay and their extortionate charges.

So I drove over to have a set of 35" x 12.5 x 15 BFG KM2's fitted.





They had a few issues seating the tyres on the 10" wide rims and even the bead cheat/bead bazooka they had was struggling. In the end they used a tyre fitting ring that I've not seen before and this worked excellently.



New boots fitted.



I gave LJ a clean.



And put her away.



I've started putting together a box of spares to carry in LJ.





Still need to get some wheel bearing kits and filters.

I'm going to make a list tomorrow of everything I need to buy and start ordering it all.

I've just ordered my awning for above the rear doors. That should be here next week so then I can finish the roof rack and get it powder coated and fitted.

I went for an Australian made one, cost a lot more than a cheaper Chinese one, but its keeping Australians in work so I dont mind.

http://www.suparvaustralia.com.au/Rear_4X4_Awning_p/sera.htm

Just need to fight the tiredness and jetlag for a few more hours then I will hopefully get a good nights sleep and then get more done on LJ tomorrow.

 

[Ben]

Almost forgot....................

I also picked up a chassis steering damper mount off an 80 series. I'm going to try and mount my steering damper the same as the 80series ones. Just need to work out if I need to get a new tie rod end for the steering box end and if so whether and 80 series one will fit.

The other thing is I think I've thought of a solution to fitting an auxiliary fuel tank. Theres no real room underneath, especially as I want to convert the rear suspension to 4 link.

So I'm now thinking on the floor behind the front seats.

Tony S sent me a link to these tanks:

http://www.dolium.com.au/Retail_Catalogue/FTP50T_item.html?ref_cat_id=Poly_Diesel_Tanks

But I'd like to make my own out of stainless.

But that wont be before the Simpson Trip as with only 4 weeks to go I wont have time.

 

[Pat]

Ben,I'm quite interested in your decision to buy a tig.Ihave gas welding gear plus an old220amp stick welder all which I can use reasonably well but an engineer mate told me I was behind the times and to get a mig so about a year ago I bought a Kempi mig/tig and am still learning to use it.what are the advantages of tig welding over mig.thanks

 

[Ben]

TIG can weld virtually any metal and even super thin metal, you can even weld alluminium foil together!

Its perfect for things like chromoly, stainless and alluminium.

MIG's are great, but you never got 100% fusion with them and you cant weld really thin metal with them like you can with TIG. You also cant properly weld alluminium with any MIG as there all DC negative.

To weld alluminium properly you need a TIG that will do AC.

Its a slower method of welding than MIG and its a lot harder and takes a lot more skill to get decent welds. So it will never replace MIG, but for really precise welds on important components its generally the best method.

My main reasons for getting into TIG are:

1. Its used in the mining industry, which I'm keen to get into.
2. Its the best method for welding chromoly which is used a lot in motor sport applications like roll cages, which I'm also keen to get into.

 

[Pat]

Thanks for that Ben,my Kempi is supposedly a mig/ tig so I will check ith the nz agents.

 

[watrob]

Hi Ben, have been read your thread with interest. I am about to start on my 3rd build, first was from the ground up 40 series, galvanised chassis, disc brakes front & rear, 2H diesel, 4 speed manual, rear locker diff with a fibreglass sports 43 tub, second was again a 40 series galvanised chassis this time with 80 series suspension (coils) all round with front & rear disc brakes, fully rebuilt 12ht with 5 speed manual, rear locker and a Harrop/Eaton front e-locker, and again a 43 fibreglass sports tub.

Third is a RJ70 1988, coils all round, will be galvanised, fully rebuilt 12HT but not sure whether to go manual or auto at this stage? I have noticed on your 70 that you have front shocks coming up thru the centre of the front coils a not directly behind the coil? can you school me on the difference between your 70 and a 1988 RJ70?

The RJ70 series will be a learning curve for me as I have always be a 40 series owner, my vehicles are purpose built for beach work with everything that can be galvanised is and if not is stainless steel.

The photo below is the just finished chassis with the 12Ht, the tub will go on next week.




Hope you allow me to pick your brain so to speak in regards to my RJ70 build.

 

[Ben]

Hi Rob,

Wow that looks smart!

That thing should fly with the 12HT! Weve got that engine in the 60 I drive at work and its an awesome motor!

Autos are great but I think ideally for off road use you need to be able to lock the torque convertor up otherwise engine braking on steep hills can be some what lacking.

In about 1993 Toyota made some changes to the LJ70/RJ70 where by they gave it a face lift.

This included changing the front end with different shape guards, square head lights and different grill. They also changed the suspension from control arms with a pin to bolt through ones on the chassis end. The other thing they did was to fit the front shocks inside the springs.

One advantage of having the older style setup like you have is that 80 series front springs can be fitted front and back for a suspension lift. Where as on mine 80 series fronts wont fit on the front.

I'd love to see more pics of your latest project and indeed your previous ones, it looks like your doing a very thorough job.

 

[watrob]

Hi Ben, ok so that solves the shock difference, and putting early model 80 series spring in the front will solve the 12Ht engine weight issue as well.

My next question is upgrading the rear drum brakes to disc brakes which I have done on my FF rear axles in the past but the RJ70 does not have FF axles. So I would assume I will need to check the Hilux section for rear disc brake conversions?

Here is a photo of my 12HT.

 

[watrob]

Ben, was wondering if you ever thought about adding this to your rear axles assembly on your 70. This is the 40 series axles & chassis I added 80 series suspension too. What's your thoughts on adding this to the 70 rear axle & chassis.

 

[Ben]

Firstly WOW! That engine looks awesome!

Car in the background looks pretty cool too.

I'm keen to convert the rear of mine to discs too, it has been done and some people have converted to FF (fully floating) at the same time.

I'm sure a hi-lux kit would fit and work and theres loads of companies in the US selling kits, but I'm still searching for an OZ based company selling them. If you find anything please let me know.

Another option would be to fit the rear axles and disc brake setup off the LWB LJ78 or KZJ78. Obviously these vehicles were never sold in OZ but I believe they were sold in big numbers in NZ, so it might be possible to source the parts from there if shipping isnt too expensive.

Regarding the extra links above the axle..............

Thats a 5 link setup and should provide heaps more flex and articulation.

I'm going to convert mine to a 4 link setup by adding one rose jointed link in the center. I also want to make new bottom links with rose joints. The bottom links would be really simple as they would consist of a piece of cromoly tube with a nut welded on each end and a rose joint screwed into it.

The other option is to just cut the end off the trailing arms so instead of having 2 bushes and bolts you just have one, but obviously this wont provide as much flex as rose joints.

I'm looking forward to seeing where you go with your 70 project, I get the impression its going to be something special!

 

[watrob]

The other way to fit disc's on the rear be like this, this is my leaf sprung 40 with the 4 bolt rear axle?

 

[watrob]

This is on a rear axle that's not a full floater.

 

[warrenpfo]

Ben

Nice work, how do you find the mains rattle gun?

I think it would be a good purchase and wondered your thoughts.