Broken Engine

[ByronJ]

SInce starting a business during 2020 I have had little time to use my Land Cruiser. However LC was recently pressed into service to help with our move from Wales to Cornwall and was doing a great job until last week when as I was driving on the A38 LC droppped out of cruise control and the engine just stopped.

I was lucky enough to be able to coast into a layby and could see a lot of smoke coming from the engine compartment. I grabbed a fire extinguisher and opened the bonnet with my heart in my mouth. No flames anywhere but smoke coming from the rocker cover. It turned out that the coolant hose running from the block to the cabin heater had failed close to the block and dumped all the coolant and the engine (1HD-T) had overheated. I think the smoke was the oil vaporising in the head.

No warning lights came on and I guess all the water/steam must have been sucked under LC as I saw and heard nothing amiss until the engine just cut out.

When she cooled down I refilled her with water and started the engine. Sounded like there was a road drill inside. So I switched off and waited to be recovered.

The recovery itself was an adventure as the lowloader was too long to take the tight bend at the bottom of our access lane. So we unloaded LC at the top of the lane and I freewheeled down the hill. With no power steering or brake servo it took serious effort to take the 90 degree bend (stone walls either side) and then another 90 turn into my garage but I made it without hitting anything!

Today I got the head off and this is what I found.

 

[ByronJ]

I couldn't rotate the engine to TDC as the engine just locked up and I could not get more than 70° rotation. Here is a close up of chambers 2 and 3.

 

[Ben Stratford]

Wow, what a mess, but she still got you home! What now? Inspect the crank to see how bad it is?

 

[ByronJ]

Those bits you can see are pieces of a very hard metal; perhaps rings as I can see nothing broken on the head. Though I have not stripped the valves yet.

My next step is to get the pistons off and inspect the bores... I am way outside my comfort zone here so all advice suggestions will be welcomed.

 

[ByronJ]

Wow, what a mess, but she still got you home! What now? Inspect the crank to see how bad it is?

Yes; it looks very nasty. I am going to get the pistons and crank out next

 

[Towpack]

Given that the valves look intact, I'd say those bits of metal must be rings as I don't see any way debris from the bottom end could get up past the pistons. Was the lock up on rotation with the head on or off? If it won't rotate with the head off that must be a bottom end problem. With the head on, those metal bits on the piston tops could cause lock up when if get squished at TDC on any cylinder.

 

[ByronJ]

Given that the valves look intact, I'd say those bits of metal must be rings as I don't see any way debris from the bottom end could get up past the pistons. Was the lock up on rotation with the head on or off? If it won't rotate with the head off that must be a bottom end problem. With the head on, those metal bits on the piston tops could cause lock up when if get squished at TDC on any cylinder.

The lockup was with the head on.

 

[ByronJ]

I have not managed to get the pistons out. That’s taking me a little time as the sealant between the pan and block is proving hard to break. Well no progress so far! Anybody got any tips for separating the pan from the block?

But I can now rotate the crankshaft and so can see into the bores. It is not a pretty sight; reckon I need to get a rebore done .

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

That’s taking me a little time as the sealant between the pan and block is proving hard to break.

When I replaced the BEB's on the 12V I used a wooden plank ( it was on a ramp) and just wiggled ( levered) it against the sump, came off on a couple of mins. When I replaced the sump just used RTV with total success. That stuff Toyota use would stick the sump on with no bolts needed.

 

[Ben Stratford]

Hopefully it seized before the oil ran out. Fingers crossed the crank is ok or it will likely be crank regrind, rebore, face the block, new pistons and rings, new main and big end shell bearings and maybe thrust washers. Then there’s the things you may as well do while in there like oil seals, water pump, maybe oil pump. Then strip head, crack test, reface, valve guides and seat check etc etc so it will be a big job. Someone may have a good 2nd hand engine which could be cheaper??

 

[Towpack]

I have not managed to get the pistons out. That’s taking me a little time as the sealant between the pan and block is proving hard to break. Well no progress so far! Anybody got any tips for separating the pan from the block?

But I can now rotate the crankshaft and so can see into the bores. It is not a pretty sight; reckon I need to get a rebore done .

That's typical case scenario of alloy pistons overheating in an iron block, the pistons expanding more than the block above a certain temperature.
When I had my sump off it was also stuck solid and wouldn't budge with all the bolts out. There are sump splitting tools available but I made one from a long piece of thin, flat spring steel (similar to a steel ruler), ground sharp edges onto the end and bent the end over 90deg so I could tap it into the joint, then tap it round the perimeter of the sump. Resealed it with some RTV, Loctite I think.

 

[Towpack]

Hopefully it seized before the oil ran out. Fingers crossed the crank is ok or it will likely be crank regrind, rebore, face the block, new pistons and rings, new main and big end shell bearings and maybe thrust washers. Then there’s the things you may as well do while in there like oil seals, water pump, maybe oil pump. Then strip head, crack test, reface, valve guides and seat check etc etc so it will be a big job. Someone may have a good 2nd hand engine which could be cheaper??

Forum member Chapelgate has recently done a full engine rebuild so should be able to give a good idea of cost. I would imagine a good used engine almost certainly will be cheaper, even though they are relatively scarce.

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

I know that Trevor on here rebuilt his 100 series engine which was then written off in an accident and I believe he still has. A 100 series engine in an 80 would be quite something. I don't know if Trev wants to sell it or if there are more challenges ( ECU's etc) but I think it's been covered on youtube. Just an idea.

 

[albycamel]

I know that Trevor on here rebuilt his 100 series engine which was then written off in an accident and I believe he still has. A 100 series engine in an 80 would be quite something. I don't know if Trev wants to sell it or if there are more challenges ( ECU's etc) but I think it's been covered on youtube. Just an idea.

What a bugger - yeah, definitely worth exploring a 1HD-FTE conversion if you are considering replacing the engine - seems to be a reasonably common conversion in OZ.

 

[Shayne]

Looks almost as messy as my Kubota 3.8 TD boat engine so I dropped the head and block off at my local machine shop and went home to search in despair for unicorn over size pistons .

I was astonished to be told on my return to the shop that head had been skimmed but it was hardly necessary and bores only needed honed so are still within spec of a standard size piston .

Rings had failed but what seemed to me was seriously scored barrels was in fact melted piston lining the barrel .

The engines are actually Nanni diesel and Nanni hide all part numbers so as to charge x9 over genuine Kubota prices and then send you the parts in a Kubota box

SINOCMP on amazon of all things were very determined to ensure they were sending me the correct rebuild kit for a very reasonable price which arrived a month sooner than expected and a 200ml tube of Granville high temp black instant gasket completed the job .

Then I had to wait another month for a £140 Nanni thermostat because I didn't know which Kubota stat i could get next day delivery for £14 I needed to order

 

[ByronJ]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. My next step is to get the block out and find out exactly what the extent of the damage is. A replacement engine may well be my best option. Though as I am back working full time and in the middle of moving house I will not get a chance to remove the block for a week or so.

 

[frank rabbets]

Makes me tempted to order all new hoses from Toyota just in case. Toyota ones last a long time but there is a limit. I would not trust another brand.

 

[Towpack]

I check the hoses to the rear heater unit every time I go under the truck for any reason as they are the ones most prone to corrosion and failure.

 

[Bat21]

To get the sump off I used a thin stainless steel butter knife.
Hammered it in to the joint between the block and sump then hammered it round the sump while holding it with the handle at 90 degrees to the block face.

I rebuilt my 80 1HD-T motor 14 years ago now after it suffered a cracked bore in Spain. I think it was around £1,600 back then.

 

[Gav missin]

Garry Rigby @80 breaker has a bare block in vgc for not much money. I saw it there tonight.