Broken Engine

[frank rabbets]

Ha Ha. I used a sharp knife and hammered it round the joint with a lump hammer. Great minds think alike.

Even then though I slightly bent the flange which leaked ever so slightly so had to do it all again.

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

Doesn't help that the temperature guage is so dumb. Could be running pretty hot for years and you wouldn't know unless you have an after market temperature guage. Seems like the fan hubs were underfilled from the factory so don't work as hard as they should. At 30 years old it was worth squirting a tube of silicone into the fan hub on mine to get it working again and keep temps where they should be.

 

[ByronJ]

Doesn't help that the temperature guage is so dumb. Could be running pretty hot for years and you wouldn't know unless you have an after market temperature guage. Seems like the fan hubs were underfilled from the factory so don't work as hard as they should. At 30 years old it was worth squirting a tube of silicone into the fan hub on mine to get it working again and keep temps where they should be.

Fitting a temperature gauge / alarm sounds like a good idea to me. Do you, or anyone else, have aany recommendations after market temperaure guages?

 

[frank rabbets]

Pressure sensor with a warning buzzer would be good. Trouble is there is a partial vacuum in there when the engine is cold.

Cut a large hole in the front of the bonnet and fit a large brass temperature gauge where a mascot would go. That's what they did back in the day when cars were built properly.

Trouble is pressure needs monitoring more than temperature I would think. When the engine starts boiling temp would be high but pressure low if it's due to loss of coolant.

 

[frank rabbets]

This would do which could be wired to a lamp or buzzer. The weak point would be the pipe joined to the water system but at least the alarm would go off if it failed.

Contact Pressure Gauges - S.M. Gauge Company Ltd - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

Interesting idea about monitoring pressure Frank. I'd think operating temperature would be a factor in choosing a suitable device though? An engine oil pressure sensor or guage perhaps?

www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk do a good range of sensors and gauges Byron. I can't recommend a specific one because I use a home made Arduino based gauge but I'm sure someone else will make recommendations.

If you're handy with a soldering iron and ok on a computer this is the latest incarnation of my 'know it all' gauge:

brains in the glovebox:

Has proved reliable over the last 12 years or so since I built the first one but there are simpler solutions for sure.

 

[frank rabbets]

Gauges are OK but the only one I monitor is the Speedo. A buzzer would be ideal.

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

Buzzer essential IMO, but many of the aftermarket gauges can do that now.

 

[Towpack]

If you prefer a classic style 52mm gauge, Racetech do some nice ones. I fitted this one in my V6 Sierra.

OP/OT Gauge

They also do an OP/Water temp option.

On the theme of cooling fans, mine "failed" but was permanently locked even with a cold engine so I replaced it with an Aisin unit from Roughtrax. Better than if failing the other way I suppose.

 

[ByronJ]

Almost ready to lift out the block. Does anyone have any tips for undoing the the two bolts from bell housing to block at around 08:00 and 10:00 O'Clock. I am struggling to get at them as they are so tight to the chassis. Thinking I might have to lower the auto box...

 

[Towpack]

If you can't get at them with sockets and wobble bars you could indeed try removing the gearbox crossmember and carefully lowering it so the whole engine/transmission assembly is at an angle. This obviously means a bit more work removing prop shafts etc. Put a few of the other bolts back in the bellhousing if you try this.

 

[ByronJ]

If you can't get at them with sockets and wobble bars you could indeed try removing the gearbox crossmember and carefully lowering it so the whole engine/transmission assembly is at an angle. This obviously means a bit more work removing prop shafts etc. Put a few of the other bolts back in the bellhousing if you try this.

Thanks. Guess I will have to try lowering the box

 

[Shayne]

Those bolts were surprisingly easy with my 2" body lift so maybe body up would be less effort ?

 

[ByronJ]

Those bolts were surprisingly easy with my 2" body lift so maybe body up would be less effort ?

 

[ByronJ]

Dropped the box a little and the engine is out . It leaves a big hole!

 

[Gary Stockton]

Wow Byron you do have interesting challenges

When next in Cape Town get one of these kits maybe?

Toyota 1HD-T for EMS3

This is a full kit for the Toyota 1HD-T engine.

shopglobal.madmandevelopments.com

 

[ByronJ]

Wow Byron you do have interesting challenges

When next in Cape Town get one of these kits maybe?

Toyota 1HD-T for EMS3

This is a full kit for the Toyota 1HD-T engine.

shopglobal.madmandevelopments.com

Hi Garry

Great to hear from you . I like the look of that kit... We still have our 80 in Cape Town and are planning to return mid January 2025. Our main challenge is selling our house in Wales; until that is done we are basically grounded.

 

[ByronJ]

I have the block stripped down but am hesitating over removing the injector pump. The guys I am taking the block to for checking / possible re-boring prefer that I remove it.

I have a puller but I am uncertain whether it is safe to push on the threaded shaft coming out of the pump (it does have a dimple in its end) or whether I should push on the steel collar around the bolt. Pushing on the bolt is any easy option but I worry that doing so will damage the pump.

I have checked around the internet but have not found anything that makes this clear. In fact most of the info appears to be the trouble people had removing the retaining nut from the threaded shaft. I used my new impact wrench on lowest power and the nut came off without any fuss; so happy I bought that tool.

I would be grateful if anyone who has removed the injection pump from a 1HD-T would let me know what is the correct process . I really do not want to damage that pump!

Once the pump is off I will be taking the block, head, cranks etc. to be measured and checked. Then I will know if it is worth rebuilding it or if I should source another engine.

 

[albycamel]

https://fliphtml5.com/qfaxu/gnkz/19..._Manual_RM617E_OCR(1)-Copy_optimize_optimize/

Not sure if this helps, but the Toyota engine repair manual for the 1HDT engine.

 

[ByronJ]

https://fliphtml5.com/qfaxu/gnkz/1998_1HZ_1HD-T_1HD-FTE_Engine_Repair_Manual_RM617E_OCR(1)-Copy_optimize_optimize/

Not sure if this helps, but the Toyota engine repair manual for the 1HDT engine.

Thanks. I have a copy of that manual. The only instruction is "Using SST remove the injection pump". The accompanying diagram does not make it clear (at least not to me) whether they are pusing on the threaded shaft or its surrounding collar.