Rustproofing, updating methods and products.

[Spike]

Very thorough Shayne, steam cleaned, old underseal removed, Dinitrol ML inhibitor, clear Dinitrol inside chassis box sections cavities and body panels,, then Dinitrol top coat.

 

[Tractionman]

What prep did they do ?
Unless there are pics missing, looks like they just sprayed over rust/corrosion, a typical expensive shortcut/short term solution.
This is why there is always a debate, as Shayne says above.

 

[Tractionman]

Crossed posts !

 

[Dave]

I’ve always used Dinitrol on older stuff, and recently new stuff. ML first, and then something on top. ML works fairly well on previous slightly rusty stuff, but isn’t 100% effective. Every year or two it needs a bit of a touch up where it has come unstuck, and the stuff on top of it has dried or come loose.

 

[Spike]

Thanks for your input guys, no other pics Tractionman, only the info from their website, cheers Dave I will be keeping an eye on it!

 

[Shayne]

Much reading tells me these are all polyurethane , so are plenty of more reasonable priced paints .

Also points out a step in prep not yet mentioned i don't think ?

Jennychem Industrial Chemicals 50% Phosphoric Acid Descaler Rust Remover - Safe On Metal Surfaces - 5L : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

Jennychem Industrial Chemicals 50% Phosphoric Acid Descaler Rust Remover - Safe On Metal Surfaces - 5L : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

www.amazon.co.uk

 

[karl2000]

What step?

 

[Shayne]

The acid wash

 

[pompeyprado]

Sure it has been debated to death, but I do find that keeping posts like these updated are invaluable for those scouring the internet for answers (and there are plenty of different 'correct' answers out there for sure!).

After MUCH debate, and research, I decided to book my 150 in for a Dinitrol treatment.
However, unlike most of the big professional companies, I opted against the Dinitrol 4941 (the black stuff) and instead am going for Dinitrol 4010 (known as Corroheat).
4010 is slightly less durable, however critically for me - it is clear! (or almost clear) so it will allow me to see what is going on underneath.
If I have to have it 'topped up' every couple of years, then so be it - at least I can rest easy knowing exactly what is going on under my car.

The 4941 is highly highly regarded, and I am sure it works really well. But I'll never be able to rest easy, knowing that the only way to tell if it has worked is if it rots through completely in 5 years.

I gave serious consideration to Lanoguard, but eventually concluded that it is quite possibly all a marketing gimmick.
Bilt Hamber looked good, but none of the professionals offer it. I don't want to DIY it, and also there must be a reason the professionals are using Dinitrol?

With regards to where I've booked it - I initially had it booked with South West Rustproofing. They come highly reviewed by a few forums and on the internet. They appear to do a good job, and offer a courtesy car. Although for a LC they wanted £1,200.

I then spoke (at quite some length) with a guy from the LR Defender / Saab forums called Chris (goes by Zagato online). Quite likely if you've looked in to rustproofing, you will have seen his lengthy guides. His forums cannot rate him highly enough, and I get the impression he is very passionate about what he does. He gave me the warm fuzzy feeling that he would give the attention to detail in the prep work I desire, so have booked it in with him. He carries out the treatment on his (large) driveway, over a week long period (to allow for drying without the benefit of a heated workshop). And charges substantially less than SWR, presumably due to lack of overheads.

Will report back once I see the results!

 

[Raj]

Sure it has been debated to death, but I do find that keeping posts like these updated are invaluable for those scouring the internet for answers (and there are plenty of different 'correct' answers out there for sure!).

After MUCH debate, and research, I decided to book my 150 in for a Dinitrol treatment.
However, unlike most of the big professional companies, I opted against the Dinitrol 4941 (the black stuff) and instead am going for Dinitrol 4010 (known as Corroheat).
4010 is slightly less durable, however critically for me - it is clear! (or almost clear) so it will allow me to see what is going on underneath.
If I have to have it 'topped up' every couple of years, then so be it - at least I can rest easy knowing exactly what is going on under my car.

The 4941 is highly highly regarded, and I am sure it works really well. But I'll never be able to rest easy, knowing that the only way to tell if it has worked is if it rots through completely in 5 years.

I gave serious consideration to Lanoguard, but eventually concluded that it is quite possibly all a marketing gimmick.
Bilt Hamber looked good, but none of the professionals offer it. I don't want to DIY it, and also there must be a reason the professionals are using Dinitrol?

With regards to where I've booked it - I initially had it booked with South West Rustproofing. They come highly reviewed by a few forums and on the internet. They appear to do a good job, and offer a courtesy car. Although for a LC they wanted £1,200.

I then spoke (at quite some length) with a guy from the LR Defender / Saab forums called Chris (goes by Zagato online). Quite likely if you've looked in to rustproofing, you will have seen his lengthy guides. His forums cannot rate him highly enough, and I get the impression he is very passionate about what he does. He gave me the warm fuzzy feeling that he would give the attention to detail in the prep work I desire, so have booked it in with him. He carries out the treatment on his (large) driveway, over a week long period (to allow for drying without the benefit of a heated workshop). And charges substantially less than SWR, presumably due to lack of overheads.

Will report back once I see the results!

I was on the same boat in 2021. Got lot of life saving (for my Barbie) tips and directions from here too. I was advised against black paint if I can’t be 100% sure if pre-preparation. Finally went for Krown rust proofing. Rob at Krown said I can do it every 2 years but I am getting it done every year as it’s easy to remember. Now I settled for Oct-Nov every year. Can’t remember how much was first coat but subsequent yearly top-ups are less than 200£. To satisfy my OCD, I got 2 cans of Krown and spray on whatever parts I feel like whenever I go under the car.

 

[Mike M]

I decided to try Bilthammer on the troopy as its lanolin based but much thinner than Corolan wax that i used on the 76 and dries clear. Also its around £50 for 5 litres.
That was Sept and its still doing well, touched up a couple of exposed parts but id taken the car on an offroad trip which wouldnt have helped.

Keeping an eye on it as roads are caked in salt this time of year in Scotland.

Good to share experiences with different products though.

Last cruiser was put in somewhere for the dinitrol black coating as soon as it arrived from Japan, never again, peeled off in places after a year.

Lanoguard was only useful around the engine bay but stank of sheeps piss (plus very expensive ) so i now use ACF50 for bits that are on show like the hubs, wheel nuts and various parts around the engine bay.

Cheers

Mike

 

[pompeyprado]

so i now use ACF50 for bits that are on show like the hubs, wheel nuts and various parts around the engine bay.

Cheers

Mike

So worth also mentioning, I've used ACF50 on my motorbikes for years, so I do also have a big bottle of that for spraying on battery terminals, wiring, bolts, and anything else like that.

The guy I booked in with actually uses it as a rust treatment as well due to its ability to really penetrate she stabilise. It's good stuff!

I practically used to bathe my motorbikes in the stuff. Have off plenty of smoke when they warmed up and burnt off the excess! Smells good too...

 

[felix2566]

Apparently AC50 is very good on aluminium cast stuff as its thin enough to soak into the pores and help stop/slow the corrosion that way

 

[Dave]

I’ve used 1000 clear, ML, and the 4941. ML is supposed to be better where rust exists. My old LC got ML first, then the 4941 over the top. Has held up pretty well, just a bit dry in places, that I then rejuvinate with ML.

My new Jimny got ML, overcoated with 77B wax on the high wear areas and leading edges. Whilst the ML is darkish, you can see through it on the car. All the inside frame, sills, doors and pillars got ML as well.

My Newish berlingo van got ML and 77B underneath, and 1000 clear in sills and doors, mainly because it’s a white van, and the ML will look messy on door bottoms etc.

Engine bays got 1000 clear, as the heat resistant stuff wasn’t available. It gets a bit soft in places and attracts dirt, but I dont care in the engine bay as long as it works.

 

[MisterCruiser]

No one using Owatrol Oil? I've used it and found it decent enough.

Have any of you rust proofers come to the conclusion of just cleaning and rust proofing the inside. As in the inside of the sills and the inside of any areas basically, like the rear axle turrets, the inside of the panhard hanger brackets, etc. etc.

As they tend to rust from the inside out are you better off just doing the inside of what you can get access to.

Anyone tried just smearing the entire thing in grease lol

 

[pompeyprado]

From what I've read, a few people argue to just keep it clean and not treat at all.

And there are plenty of people who rate smearing in engine oil (essentially the same as smothering in grease I imagine).

Also some who just regularly apply ACF-50.

But by far the most commonly recommended are Dinitrol, lanoguard, and dynax.

 

[Juddian]

No one using Owatrol Oil? I've used it and found it decent enough.

Have any of you rust proofers come to the conclusion of just cleaning and rust proofing the inside. As in the inside of the sills and the inside of any areas basically, like the rear axle turrets, the inside of the panhard hanger brackets, etc. etc.

As they tend to rust from the inside out are you better off just doing the inside of what you can get access to.

Anyone tried just smearing the entire thing in grease lol

I've ended up coating the whole chassis in marine grease, which i also smear heavily onto the 120 inner sills which are exposed to heavy weathering at both ends and can perforate if left untreated, so far its working well.
Whilst its thin and washes off am still spraying the whole underside with ACF50 twice a year too because it creeps so well into the nooks and crannies, when my stock of ACF50 runs out might try something else, maybe even chain lube.

Re chain lubes, not all are the same, we used to use aerosols of the stuff on car transporters, not only on the deck chains/screws/guides/slides (lifting/deck sliding mechanisms) but also on the tie down ratchets of which there are dozens on an 11 car carrier, tried Morris chain lube at one time but found it proved too sticky for ratchet use and tended to glue them up, but that same sticky aspect meant it lasted the weathering better on chains screws and guides, that stickiness might be useful for underbody application.

I cleaned the insides of the chassis and various suspension parts with the L shaped lance on the pressure washer and then coat the insides with BH cavity wax via the excellent long probes they supply with the aerosols, have also treated all the cavities with the correct BH cavity wax but they must be due for a top up this year.

I found BH underbody wax to eventually start peeling off in places, so won't use that again on an older vehicle, a new vehicle would be different but i'd be more inclined to cleasn it throughly and apply good paint to the chassis.

Have heard of Owatrol but not tried it yet.

Couple of years ago the exhaust failing caught me out near MOT time, ideally would have nipped up to MIJ Walsall and had a stainless made and fitted but no time to do so a mild steel went on, i do slap some zinc paint on the welds and joints and that seems to be helping keep the rust at bay.

 

[Towpack]

I got an advisory last MOT for "Underside heavily greased/oiled" after a good session with chain lube and Corrosion Block. It's important not to plaster anything on so thick that it obscures things like brake pipes which means they can't be properly inspected and will lead to a fail. I use some MucOff "wet weather"chain lube which
lasts ages, is very durable and also contains a UV dye which fluoresces when hit with a UV light making it easy to see where it's been applied.