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Misfire / knocking noise

As you guys suspected, The con rod shells on cylinder 5 has done a self delete. Before I pull the engine, is there any reason that I can’t split the block from the bottom, remove and refit the crank and piston(s) from the bottom and rebuild? I’m trying to avoid taking the head off. Apologies if this is a stupid question.
 

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Everything down there is too heavy to concentrate and do an accurate job on. Also you would have to take the gearbox off to take off the clutch. I would take the head off to see if anything is damaged inside. At least check the valves assembly on number 5 to make sure there is no damage. Might be easier to swap the engine.

Was there anything left of the shells? If not the con rod will have been damaged and would not take new shells. If the con rod is damaged the head will need to come off. The rods need to be the same weight. A new one might not be able to be balanced to the weight of the other 5.
 
Everything down there is too heavy to concentrate and do an accurate job on. Also you would have to take the gearbox off to take off the clutch. I would take the head off to see if anything is damaged inside. At least check the valves assembly on number 5 to make sure there is no damage. Might be easier to swap the engine.

Was there anything left of the shells? If not the con rod will have been damaged and would not take new shells. If the con rod is damaged the head will need to come off. The rods need to be the same weight. A new one might not be able to be balanced to the weight of the other 5.
So reading your summary Frank, best have the engine out for a proper re-build or swap?
 
Definitely. Looks like the crank is scrap and perhaps the rod if that has been blued or rubbed. Easiest would be to swap the engine but there is a risk that the engine may be faulty. It's a big job to rebuild. The 12 valve engines were renowned for big end failure.
 
Now that you've established the failure then the only option is to remove the engine and fully strip it . You can't drop the crank without dropping the gearbox and removing the front timing cover.... even then you need to make sure the piston hasn't contacted the valves so the head needs to come off . At this point it all becomes much easier if the engine is on a rotating engine stand.... now is a good time to mention the engine weighs a ton and most DIY engine cranes and stands are not up to holding the engine safely .
Pistons need to be fitted from the top so the heads coming off regardless . If the pistons are coming out then fit new rings , new main and big end bearings etc.... total failure like this is unusual in all honesty and the oil pump will have ingested lots of metal .... the shells generally delaminate and give a bit of warning .... it will be interesting to see what the other BEB's look like .

Or as others have mentioned fit another engine ..... do an FTE conversion and get a 250 hp towing monster .
 
I had a similar problem and way beyond my mechanical ability plus time. The cause was my fault. Our own mechanic, who is exceptionally good, was not well at the time and I could not find anyone locally to me in Essex to do the job. In the end Gary Rigby (80 Breaker) sent a truck to pick up the vehicle. He supplied an engine from a 100 series, swapped all the ancillaries from my 80 series engine to the donor engine, new BEBs and other things checked out. Engine installed with new clutch kit. It was expensive but I could not have replaced the vehicle in that price.
I must admit after sending the truck up the road I read negative comments online about Gary and thought WTF have I done. Gary kept me informed with progress and sent me photos. He had a very clued up mechanic working for him. Gary phoned one day to say they could not start the new engine. It was the poxy immobiliser playing up. One sorted he was very disappointed with the performance and asked me what it had been like before ( it is a 95 24 valve ). I said crap compared with the earlier 12 valve we had owned. Well between them they tweaked it and it improved the acceleration tremendously without knocking the fuel consumption. It runs without a puff of smoke. When I collected it from Gary's yard near Wisbech, my mate followed me home and could not believe how quick the old thing is! From my perspective Gary was not cheap but he sorted out the truck when I was stuck locally. He is blunt and is in business, which some seem to forget. The old 80 is still useful, has not done many miles a year since the engine swap in 2021.
 
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