Search results

It should come apart right at that matting surface. Spray some WD-40 down there and give it couple taps with a hammer outward on those stud brackets. Can also use a small screwdriver and gently pry it apart. But do be careful as those matting surfaces are on the thinner side.

Much appreciated. As these trucks get on with age and miles, I think it will become an increasingly more popular repair. Mine has 250k and the "clunk" is at a point where I'd rather look into repairing it sooner than latter. If I get another 100k miles clunk free I'd be happy after that. I saw a...

At the end of the day, these things do help save lives on the road. The question of drivers becoming more reliant on them or dissociating drivers is a different question. Most of us on this forum, are car people and enjoy to actually drive our cruisers without anything interfering in it. But...

hmm any pics of the transfer case chain replacement. This could be pretty helpful to others. Sorry if you mentioned it before, but where did you source the chain too?

Recently sold my MK7 Golf, was a nice ride. I think the reason for ABS kicking in is the undersized front tires. They could do with something like a 245 front width and a stickier compound especially if you have a tune on it as well.

Miles on engine? Maybe injectors are at fault. Not that they are known to be problematic though

scoop looks fine. Does it have a mesh to keep out leaves/debris?

Strange symptoms given the conditions and I can't really point you to a specific problem. However, as with most things start with the easiest/cheapest. Fuel filter for example. I would shy away from glow plugs if it starts on the dime in the cold. When it's cranking longer, is the RPM sensor...

Yeah running on 33" instead of the factory 31" has taken a little bit of the initial get up and go traffic light to traffic light, but I do a lot of miles on the highways so the taller gearing work well. Cruises at 90 without stressing the engine. And I still think another gear would be nice to...

The KZ has a crank position sensor located just underneath the start motor, but it does not have a cam position sensor. The engine will start without the crank position sensor but will run rough and diesel knock will be heard. However, it will run. It will however, not run nor start without the...

The ignition switch mentioned by digger dave sounds like something worth checking out. Had experienced a similar issue with an old VW.

I think you'd run fine. I'm not sure if the Petrol vs Diesel had any differences in gear ratios

Lucky maybe. What year is your 90? I know toyota improved the head apparently on 99 models+. Mine being a 96 had it's head crack at about 70k miles. Dad was cruising down the motorway when he had a little loss of power and white smoke out the back. Drove like this for a good year topping up the...

The exhaust is one of many though Shayne. It's just collectively a recipe for disaster. You could have no exhaust and have the engine freeing all it likes. But stick 3 tones behind it with the stock radiator and auto box and it'll surely suffer a bit heat wise. I still have the stock exhaust...

I think out of the box, these engines are a bit of a let down in regards to the cracked head. Owners shouldn't have to go and fix toyota's mistakes in order to prevent overheating when they are designed to tow around 3 tones. But once you maintain the cooling system, throw a trans cooler on...

I think in the 20 year span of having my truck in the family, we've changed the filter 3 times, with Milners one. At least once or twice a year I'll remove them and blow some air through them, seem fine.

What did you think was wrong with the engine, rod knock maybe? I've heard them sound that bad with bad injectors/out of time fuel pumps as well. But I assume you know the truck well and that knock developed maybe over a short distance of time pointing more towards the insides of the engine

Nice cruiser, I like the colour

Your safest bet is the 265 75 16 option and even that will depend on what offset your wheels are. The 285 option is a little shy of 33". You're going to need to grind/hammer away some metal, get rid of the mud flaps and it might still touch on compression with stock suspension. Not worth it...

The 2UZ would be a better fit. They sold that engine in the Lexus LX470 and 4th Gen 4runner, both of which have similar design/platform to the 90 series.

hmm me and you have a different version of reasonably priced Shayne :tearsofjoy: Jokes aside, safety first

Don't mean to go off topic, but those who have an inline pump, if they were to fail, do they cause an obstruction to the fuel flow or will the IP be fine lifting the fuel like normal?

Where abouts in the states are you?

This has become popular here in the states as well. Couple companies already doing the conversion on literally anything, and new companies popping up pretty quickly too. Doesn't seem too difficult if you had a whole tesla to do the conversion. Interesting for sure. But I do like my turbo whistle.

That's the ABS module cycling which is normal. If possible, stick a clear line on the return line from the fuel pump and see if bubbles are in the line.

I can't remember, but it's fairly easy to find out. Trace the lines back to the box. The one that is on the higher side will be the return line. The lower side will be the line entering the cooler.

Would love to see a 1hd-fte in one of these trucks. But weight wise, wouldn't you be better off with the D4D Motor? It will bolt right in and offers pretty decent power for a 4 banger. What would be even cooler, is the more modern Diesel V8's that are in the 70/200 series trucks!

Not too difficult to manualise a auto trans. It's been done before and I believe there are a few forum posts out there. You'll also need to do the torque converter lockup mod which will give you engine breaking just like a manual.

Good to know. Mines diesel, so all I did is install a small pump to transfer fuel over into the main tank. Made the install a lot easier.

I did the same thing. Surprised it's not a more popular mod in the UK. Suppose with the price of fuel, who wants to see their wallet vanish so quickly.

Well the problem with just adjusting the fuel screw is this proportionally increases the fuel at every RPM increment. But you don't actually need that. So I've heard the tunit is more tuned to add fuel when needed rather than just chucking it in which equals better efficiency and power when you...

Congrats, glad it wasn't an expensive fix. When she starts is she smoky out back or is the fumes pretty clear?

The only other possibility I can think of is your waste gate flap is in bad condition and isn't sealing 100% which is leaking boost. Seems unlikely though as there turbos are known to last forever, especially in stock format. Shayne, the ECU is programmed to fuel up to 14.6psi so I don't see...

He's from the US, so I guess it's gotta be a gas engine.

14.6 PSI is the actual ECU cutout. I'm boosting around 15PSI max, and have a bleed valve set at 14 PSI prior to the MAP sensor so that the ECU never sees beyond that. Check your T-boost with a compressor and guage to make sure it's holding desired boost levels. Like Shayne said, make sure your...

For the cost/headache you'll go into, why not consider a Air Locker?

Neat Job.

You probably have a better chance winning the lottery than finding a good used rust free axle mate.... Have you considered a new one from Milner?

Since you already got the rims, spacers is probably the easiest options. Make sure to get Hubcentric spacers. They won't cause you any balancing problems down the line. Also safer in my opinion.

Tons of 4runner 3rd gens here in the states running on 35's which use same suspension as our 90's. Normally requires cutting the inside sill, at LEAST a 2 inch lift. Some do a body lift too. And you'd want a 1 inch diff drop unless you're gonna be binding your CV's at full droop. Diff drop kits...

Unless you're just going for the look, which is an awesome look, 35's over 33's don't really offer much of an advantage. If anything, it requires a fair bit work for not a lot of gain suspension wise. Unless you're making it a complete off road monster.

You'll be sure to get another 20 years (at least) out of her after you're done there. Well done Lads!

How are you measuring the fluid? Most reliable reading done on a warm box.

Yeah, as SC has said, I hope there isn't further damage done. In my opinion, I think there is from how the truck behaves.

Any reason why we can't just add a relay in series on the positive cable from one side to the other. And then have the relay triggered via something that is live only when the engine is running. Once off, relay disconnects and isolates both batteries. Or simply, control the relay via switch. Of...

Yup, 12volt system. Both connected in parallel so increased your amps, but keeps the Volts the same. hmm not really sure if I would call it a designated cranking battery due to them being in parallel but I do think the starter draws more "Juice" from the passenger side one vs drivers side...

Well I hope that fixes your problem although I still think your symptoms sounds more mechanical. As SC has said, it's good knowing what's caused that thing to burn out like that in the ECU so it doesn't happen again. 13.8 volts from these alternators sounds alright, a bit on the low side. I...

Yup, all 90's are permanent 4wd. Now, I don't know if this is for sure, but I'm thinking once the Box code is identical alongside internal gear ratios, you might be able to bolt on your transfer case to the box and get it to work. However, because we can't confirm 100% whether it's the box or...