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No idea why you wouldn't lose any fluid but it will need bleeding as you've introduced air into the system. Are you talking about the hose to the callipers? It sounds like you have a blockage somewhere, is the calliper actually working?

How much trouble and where do you start to get at the radio, my aerial is broken, not sure if it's electric or manual so need to get at the aerial socket on the back of the radio, also a couple of bulbs are blown in the heater switches. Is the Halfords aerial noticeable? You have pre-tensioners...

We had problems with squealing pads and our suppliers said don't use any anti seize products on the back of the pads, it seems to work. I find squealling is usually caused by glazing Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does anyone have any experience of Pagid or Eicher (I think) pads and discs? Euro car parts are selling them and I wondered if they are any good, plus does anyone know why they offer 2 or 3 variations of what appears to be the same product at varying prices?

Have you greased the prop lately, if so you may have pumped too much in and it can push the slip yolk out too much, this can also damage the UJs as it puts too much pressure on them.

Paul, looking at the last picture in post #96, you need to strip the engine completely and make sure all the oilways , including the crankshaft are thoroughly cleaned out. You'll also have to replace the cooler and check the pump as well.

Did the engine spin over or was it very sluggish or not turning at all? Just because you have 12.5 volts at the terminals doesn't mean they are any good, it's all down to the amperage they're producing. I don't think you need both batteries, mine only has one but it's a lot bigger than the cars...

Rad looks too thin to me, mine's 50mm+ thick and there's a massive gap between the rad and the fan shroud.

Can you show us a picture or two of the rad? It may be too small for the car, an Avensis wont weigh as much as an LC so that may be part of the problem. After checking a few sites the D4D rad is totally different to the 1kze so I'm surprised it even fits properly.

I'd forget what it lost with the other bloke and concentrate on how much fluid it loses with you. If the oil level was low then you're not losing the water into the oil. Is there any white gunge in the neck of the rad which May indicate head gasket problems. You need to drive the thing and check...

From the video I'd say that was normal for a car that you are just randomly revving. How hot did you let the engine get when you checked the expansion tank? Buy a new cap from Toyotas for a start and check the expansion pipe actually sits in water in the bottom of the expansion bottle and check...

I doubt the fact you have only got water in it is making it boil but before you put expensive Toyota stuff in you could just put some ordinary red antifreeze in, just to prevent any corrosion. One thing you could try is checking or changing the rad cap, I bought a brand new rad last year and...

If you are talking about the handbrake shoes then I very much doubt it, you just need to work round it and I assume you mean half shafts not the prop shaft

It sounds like you got the blind or more likely dumb tester. The nearest reason for a fail on the additional lamps would be "obviously incorrectly positioned" but they are not incorrectly positioned so not sure on his reasoning other than he likes making things up. As for the rust, even if he...

I hope you have a kind or blind MOT tester as that is within a prescribed area, It's within 30cm of the body mounts and no doubt the seat belt mounts will be within the limit as well. Good luck with it.

It's normal rack and pinion steering so it shouldn't confuse him too much. If they don't do what he calls 'bar' type, which I assume he means with a steering box that connects to a pitman arm which links to a bar that then connects to the hubs as in Land Rovers, I'd try somewhere else as he may...

There are other threads regarding the fuel lines where they come out of the tank getting pin holes in them and sucking in air. There is something else that may have happened which was a common problem with my Land Rover Discovery in which the pick up in the tank became blocked with a waxy sludge...

I've just had a look at mine and the plate looks easily accessible and removable, I'd try without removing the pump, you've nothing to lose. The spring looks quite strong so be careful it doesn't fly off as you undo it and you may need to give it some assistance when putting it all back...

Forget doing compression tests, glow plug tests etc, if it starts then the glow plugs will be OK. Your problem will most likely be the broken plate and it's sucking in air somewhere. Another problem could be a blocked pick up or split pipe in or near the tank.

I changed the rad on mine last year after which the top hose would collapse when it cooled, it was the new rad cap was no good and fitting the original cap solved the problem

The coils can look OK but may have broken near the end so it drops and the broken bit falls away.

What is there to chip on these, they have a mechanical pump and I'd advise against anything that involves randomly increasing fuelling as all you do is wash the bores clean of oil.

The 97 Colorado will have a mechanical pump, the 2000 is probably a D4D and I thought these were common rail diesels with a high pressure pump rather than the old type KZTE injector pump that has individual injector pipes exiting it.

Do you have the same problem as I do in that when looking for parts, insurance etc. the registration comes up as a GX despite the V5 saying It's an FX. Parts locators always show my FX as a GX and when I got a quote from a big insurance company that uses a Bulldog it took ages to get them to...

It depends on the mileage but as the cam belt only takes 30 minutes to do I wouldn't bother unless there are signs of wear.

Try cleaning the terminals and lead clamps and checking them for tightness, also check the earth strap for tightness. You should also make sure the top of the battery is thoroughly clean as if not then you can get a leak across from the + terminal, I measured 7 volts to the battery case a few...

I have an FX and it isn't that basic, It's got aircon, electric windows and fully electric mirrors. The seats are a very smart hard wearing cloth and it has narrower wheels which save me a fortune in tyres although the downsides are certain body parts are harder to come by and it doesn't have...

If you want to find out if It's got an LSD, jack both sides of the rear up and turn one wheel, if the other rotates in the same direction it has one, if it goes the other way it hasn't. As for oil you can get ep90 with friction modifier already mixed in. Don't use a breaker bar as you run the...

But only drive it in a straight line if you are on paved roads, you may also need to reverse it if it won't disengage.

That should last another year but It's only a half hour job to change anyway. Here's the sequence for resetting the light. This is for one in Kms, in miles the reading comes up as single digits, I.E. 9 = 90K miles, just checked mine and it ranges from 1 to 9 on the display. 1. To get to T-BELT...

Those prices sound reasonable, last clutch I bought was for a Clio, it cost me about £100 and that's trade. £400 labour isn't too bad either considering It'll probably stretch to a day's work and not something to really attempt at home.

I have a 99 FX, It's not that basic, well not for me anyway. It doesn't have the flared arches and it also has 6 in wheels and 215/80X16 tyres standard, these are not widely available now so I've fitted 225/75s on mine. It has air con, electric windows and mirrors but only one battery. It's got...

That's an indicated 75mph, my speedo is nearly 11% out, the original tyres were 215-80X16, now very slightly smaller 225-75s. I find It'll change into top at a lower speed now which helps. I was going to put larger tyres on but my wheels are only 6j with not much offset, car is a Colorado FX...

I seem to get a lower fuel consumption if I keep mine about an indicated 75mph, sat nav speed of about 65-68mph. This is at about 2800revs where it just seems to come on cam.

I use it in snow when the car will just slide uncontrollably using the foot brake. I put it in low ratio and shift the selector to 1 and have never had a problem on the really steep hill by our stables gate.

Sounds like the battery in the key needs replacing

Anthony, that should work the same with your key. I had similar problem with mine when my battery failed. There is also a battery in the key, have you checked it, does the small red light on the key illuminate?

The revs wont change when you take the oil filler off and there should be a bit of pressure, it's a big engine. As for the rust and if you are worried about the noise, walk away.

Whether you would be taking the mick with that offer is down to the seller but I think I'd tell you where to go at that price. Why do you need to put it on a ramp to check for rust, you can almost walk underneath an LC anyway. I wouldn't worry about it towing a trailer, they are designed for it...

Mine work OK but they do tend to over servo and the pedal goes to the floor if you push hard enough although this is a problem I've found when MOTing a lot of different types of Toyota. It's not a MC or fluid problem as the pedals on all occasions are rock solid without the engine running and...

It depends on how basic basic is, mine has electric windows, power steering and aircon, the only thing I'd really like is cruise control. The one in the ebay ad above may be dodgy, I've asked him the mileage and got no reply plus it does seem cheap for the year.

Sorry, it was a typo. Divide the mileage covered by amount of fuel you use and there's no need for a spread sheet based web program or phone app.

Whatever happened to diving the fuel used into the mileage covered?

When I bought mine it had 235 somethings on, think they must have been 65s or 70s as they were smaller and the speedo was even further out than it is now which is about 10% under although the odo is accurate to a mile in one hundred. I changed back to 215s as the spare was a 215 and I was...

Those tyre sizes are humongous compared with mine which are 215.80X16 which is the alternative size Toyota fitted on my FX model, this may account for the not so good cruising consumption.

I have no idea what a petrol does but my td auto will do 28-29 on a run if I don't push it much over 70, towing about 1.5 tons and on short trips without the trailer it'll only manage 20-22mpg. A td should last longer than a petrol and of course there's less maintenance.

Wobbly, next time go down to your local motor factors or good car accessory shop and buy one buy length rather than make. The only problem is that the sales people tend to get a bit confused now if they can't go by reg no.

If it's the same as a 99 Colorado I've had the same problem, I bought one from our motor factors and It was too small even though it's what is listed. I had to get the next size up which fits OK.

I'd have thought a Discovery on a suitable trailer would put you over the limit for a 90/95 but probably still no reason for the fluid to overheat. One thing to be wary of with an external cooler is that they do have a habit of leaking. For the small difference in cost and hassle I'd be more...

Sounds exactly the same as the ABS on my 99 Colorado, it frightened the life out of me the first time it activated. Don't forget that if all wheels lock up then the ABS won't work anyway.