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I had a similar problem and way beyond my mechanical ability plus time. The cause was my fault. Our own mechanic, who is exceptionally good, was not well at the time and I could not find anyone locally to me in Essex to do the job. In the end Gary Rigby (80 Breaker) sent a truck to pick up the...

So reading your summary Frank, best have the engine out for a proper re-build or swap?

I would doubt a worn UJ on the prop would be intermittent.

Don't forget eye protection

Keep us posted!

It sounds to me like a piston is hitting the top end. Might have spun a BE and allowed slop. I am no expert but a fuel issue would likely cause a miss fire not a knock like that. Although we did have a tractor engine that over fueled due to a leaking heat pilot and that did cause knocking. We...

Assuming you have fully charged batteries, you could try disconnecting both earth terminals, switch on the key and then reconnect the batteries. This used to work on our one fitted with the alarm the main agents fitted (Scorpion)

I had a wet foot well for ages then massive coolant loss. Turned out to be a pipe to the rear passenger heater matrix. Just bypasses.

Personally I doubt you will find a really good second hand set at a sensible price. The youngest vehicles are now 27 years.

I just removed the relay (IIRR), as said above, the engines are good starters.

Does your engine have the pre heat in the air intake? I had a problem nearly 20 years ago with the heater not cutting out and dragging down the batteries. On short journeys the alternator could not cope with the draw and the batteries would fairly quickly drop below starting ability. On a...

Good colour that did not show the dirt. Our J reg had a horrible brown interior.

My 95, probably late '94 build has just a drivers air bag. Anybody' s guess as to whether or not it would deploy properly. Then there is huge chunky grab rail for the passenger to hit in the event of a head on. They are what they are, a design from the 1980s.

Which country you are located in and the cost of fuel may have a bearing on your decision. My old diesel will do about 22/23mpg chugging around local. Very light footed long journey may see 28/29mpg. Start driving hard and the mpg will drop below 20mpg. The auto petrol are much more fuel hungry...

The 2 land cruisers I have owned have started instantly without heat. Generally lack of combustion heat will lead to grey smoke emitted from the exhaust (unburnt fuel). I wonder if your fuel system had lost prime for some reason or you have an intermittent electrical fault?

I had a problem when the batteries had been disconnected for several days. The vehicle was effectively immobilised. Quick fix was to disconnected the batteries, turn on the ignition and then reconnect batteries. The immobiliser was tucked up underneath the dash behind the glove box. I wonder if...

Is the vehicle fitted with an immobiliser?

Why change from the 24v?

I think friend has sourced a secondhand unit.

I don't know diddly about the auto box but, it does seem odd that it was functioning before oil and filter change. I wonder if oil change has moved some debris or could air be in the system?

The photos don't look like Wisbech Cambs!

Morning Friend has an import with electric folding mirrors. One has stopped folding. Anywhere obvious to look? RH drive, LH mirror. I guess a whole unit will be difficult to find and silly expensive. Thanks

Regarding blocked sunroof drains, I have cleared them using a low pressure air pump (for inflatables).

I will try Mick's suggestion first. Thanks.

Evening all. An old chestnut I know, but has anyone got a good tip for improving how the windows slide in damp weather?

On

Could the rear panel drain holes be blocked?

There is an 80 Lexus on ebay at the moment that does look in good nick but a little eye-watering.

I had my original alternator repaired and it does sometimes need a throttle blip to kick it off. I realise the OP has a 12v but the comment on the 24v heater is worth noting. I had a problem with charging years ago and a massive draw on first start up until a click was heard. The alternator...

I can get the body sill affecting seat belt mounting or attachment of body to chassis. Don't get the suspension to sill?

Yes you need to look in the places mentioned above. My old 24v TD has battle scars (mostly inflicted by me), sound chassis, tail gate, doors. Mechanically not too bad but the rear sill end are corroded, particularly the offside. Still goes through Mot.

The petrols are real guzzlers.

I have a friend who has treated a Citroën van just like that and seems to have got away with it for years. I have used semi synthetic for years but have have a large barrel of mineral 15w 40 in the shed. It is a reasonably modern spec but not for common rails with ad blue and Dpf etc.

Morning all, my 80 will be due a change shortly (time rather than miles). What are the current grade/type recommendations for the 24v engine. Thanks Peter

Looks to be as though the chassis could do with lengthening to make a decent pick-up but that would not help with extreme off road. Unless the body was very rotten behind the B pillar, ruination of a good vehicle.

Even with a heavy old 80 get the nose weight of trailer right and load trailer over axle/s. Balancing trailers by weight at extremes is dangerous and can set up snaking. Keep the speed sensible. I was a bit gun hoe years ago with an 80 and caravan. Came close to an accident. Never drove as fast...

Another option, and I no idea of price, Gary Breaker 80 does fully repaired and primed wings. A local repair panel beater does them for Gary and they require a degree of finishing.

That is useful advice Dave.

Another way is after a charge put all the lights, fan and anything else you can. You will soon see a voltage drop with defective batteries.

The 2 batteries are linked and discharge together. You can disconnected either and still have normal 12v function. This only changes when the large solenoid is activated and 24v (batteries in series) selected for starter motor. Simultaneously the 12v circuits are dropped when the starting...

On the subject of batteries, why would my nearside (the one with the cover) have continual corrosion problems on the pos terminal? New clamp, all clean and coated but still a gretol lump of salt on it in about 6 weeks.

Cheers thank you! Sorted.

Hi all I have blown the fuse (I think/hope) for the interior lights, radio does not work either. I cannot seem to locate that fuse. Thanks

It's a rare manual! I wonder if tidy cloth is a better bet on an old vehicle or does it disintegrate eventually?

Just a basic key I would think.

I did not use my alarm for several years as the fobs were unreliable. Occasionally I had to reset the immobiliser. When the batteries were disconnected for several days for major work the immobiliser unit stopped working. It needed resetting with every start. Complete PITA, I tried to remove the...

What reg is the 80? My 80 from '95 has just plain keys with the remote/alarm fob separate. No interaction with an Ecu AFAIK.

I have a customer whose partner is an auto locksmith. They have tools which go into the locks and read them a number which in turn gives the pattern. Changing the locks a pain in the gonads.

Same here, removed and glued/bodged a lug. Left hand one just fell apart, righthand had a coming together.

I realise there seems to be some animosity towards Gary Rigby of 80 Breaker in some quarters, but he does refurbed panels.