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I just about squeezed 80k out of my last set of bfg at's on the 100. I moved them round the car and kept the pressures consistent, they were not cheap but felt they were well worth the money, not 1 puncture either

BFG I had 80K miles from my last set

Bfg without hesitation last set did 80k miles plus not even one puncture,

Thanks for that I am 94K miles and 5 years next month all genuine Toyota parts last time so probably about due now At 250k miles total, did not do the water pump last time so think it should get swapped out this time?

Hi, Just a quick one what is the interval for a timing belt change on a 100 4.2HD? Mileage and or time please? Just cant seem to find the info to hand currently Thanks

Starter motor solenoid fault, often a problem. Click but no crank

Rebuilt my 100 ones with OEM seal 4 years ago no worries. Also used a Febest items no problems at all

My money is still on that rear sensor circuit the car thinks everything is level from the info provided by the sensors. Does it still move up and down from the height control switch if so the main components should be working. There are YouTube videos of people cleaning the sensors maybe worth...

Check the height sensors, one on the back axle and one each on the front wishbone. My best guess is link has dropped off on the rear sensor, they do wear, think they can be purchased separately from the sensor itself.

If all was working before maybe you have assembled incorrectly, poor connections at the alternator or shorted the alternator live wire while working on the car. Are both batteries in good order?

They are not the smoothest of gearboxes but I would start with a check of the drive train as a loose uj or torsion bar bush wear would be my guess. Backlash and movement throughout the system could produce clunky changes, I have also swapped out the splined drive hubs on the front axle on mine...

Yes forget to mention I blasted and painted the tank as well while it was out also wax oiled the whole area too including a light coat on the tank. Also put some electrical grease in the fuel gauge loom plug to repel any water. Not very often to drop the tank (hopefully) so took advantage

My original guard and straps started to look scruffy so got sandblasted and painted with 2 costs high build etch primer and 2 coats satin black single pack enamel. Also dropped the tank drained it hot pressure washed and cleaned the filter pick up gauze.

245k

Just to resurrect the thread now covered 80k miles on the BFGs looking quite low now but still legal. Still no punctures.

I have had a problem like this before where high level was difficult to get, turned out to be a front sensor It was not a faulty sensor but the linkage was loose and slipping on the spindle part where it connects up to the sensor, linkage moving but did not move the sensor Also I have had broken...

My thoughts same uhu, the cables in the door take a fair amount of work

I have 240k miles on my 100 and swap out a few litres every year by draining the sump and refill my oil looks fresh and clean. At 150k miles I dropped the gearbox sump and changed the filters cleaned the magnets etc. Still really smooth and no problems Hope that helps

Sounds turbo boost related, any pipes come adrift?

Glad it was an easy fix

I fitted a repair kit a few years ago just as a precaution to my 100 series very easy to fit. 20 years old and still the original starter so thought it was time to refresh the solenoid and brushes, clean up and lube, good as new!

No need to jack it up just look under the wheel arch right there in front of you. Good luck.

Rear pistons just starting to get wet, May need replacement in the future but not immediately, I replaced mine with genuine Toyota ones from Milner at £180 ish each, reasonable price IMO but a bit of a fiddle to fit. Prop should be wet greasy from expelled grease, shows it has had some...

Checks the linkage on the front suspension height control sensors, located on the upper wishbones. They have habit of failing, one of mine detached and the front dropped, back was fine usually no warning lamps as the ECU assumes all is ok.

I have 240K miles without any problems AHC works perfectly.

If it can't breathe properly due to an air flow restriction the same problems will occur.

Exactly something like a fine coal dust, common rail engines have been the worst affected as the filters are a bit fussier.

I work in the ag industry and we have been having problems the last 6 months or so with red dirty fuel. There have been a wide recognition of this fact too.

Shame that there is no sticker beyond 300k, feels Toyota are missing a trick as it would be good publicity, plus no acknowledgments for loyal long term owners.

Got mine at the weekend

After 100,000 miles of trouble free motoring today the check engine light came on, fault code P1420, turns out it appears to be the shut off flap in the inlet manifold not working. I tested the circuit and it produces a vacuum when the key turns off but I believe the diaphram in the actuator is...

Thanks for the link DG, they are different than my ones, maybe the UK spec is slightly different??

Need a pair of hub caps for an early 100 series Amazon with 16" OEM alloy wheels anyone have anything please?

If it is not rusted underneath then it would be worth considering. Major mechanical items should be fine even at that mileage, but with checking all electrical items are working as steering column motors and electric ariels are very expensive. I use an exact same car as my daily drive/tow car no...

Sounds interesting let me know if you get some

Are they suitable for a 100 diesel What is the difference with the 8T I may be interested

I always buy my bearings from a bearing supplier as you get a good quality bearing for a competitive price same with seals if they are standard of the shelf types. Otherwise OEM if there is no choice, have used Amayama if I have time to import the part

Had this on a Mitsubishi L200 a few years ago, turned out to be a seized caliper not moving properly making the pedal soft. You probably are not feeling the problem without the servo assistance. I blanked off each output from the master cylinder in turn until I eliminated the fault. If all...

As per title really my BFG AT tyres fitted to the 100 have covered 60k miles this week and still have at least 6.5mm of tread at the lowest points. I have rotated them around the car but not turned them on the rims, the tracking was checked at fitment but not since, tyre pressure has been a...

I have not heard that before, I have flushed or bleed the system by raising the suspension to high stopping the car and carefully release the bleed screws one at a time and the weight of the car forces the fluid/air out each time Be careful as the car will drop once the screw is opened and...

My local Toyota dealer gave me the code for the bumpers on my 100 from the VIN number

I have my bronze and silver. Currently at 217k so be a while till the gold

Had several without issues, would not worry about mechanicals too much it is probably going to be harder to find something fresh with a modest mileage and a some service history.

I use 75w/90 synth oil in all my drive line on the 100 not fussy about the brand but swap it annually which is around 25k miles.

It was not fishing gear in the back, it is electrified livestock netting, so appears to be an ex farmers work horse. Was cheap enough IMO saw one in Devon a while back that was cut down into a pickup and looked a very handy bit of kit maybe this would have made a good project on the same lines.

Exactly the same happened to mine, I have access to a mig welder and I sorted it in the same way.

I run my BFGs at 41/42 psi on my 100 series Covered 50k miles and they have worn very evenly still have a good 7+mm of tread remaining. 33psi probably is a best of both worlds for mixed on or off road driving but for mainly highway use 40ish psi has been perfect for me.

Hi I changed the oil and filter on my 100 series auto, it did not drive properly for maybe 10 miles, seemed like there was air in the system that took some time to work it's way out after that it was fine.

A rubber hose may get you by to use the car but ideally a new cooler would be preferable. If my info is correct the part you need is available from Amayama in Japan, they will ship direct worldwide without going through the dealer network. Usually I get parts within a week or so from them, the...

I got probably the last order in towards the end of 2017. Shipped from UAE it probably took about a week start to finish to get the parts, great saving on a UJ, rear axle torsion bar and a support bracket for a rear muscular.