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Thanks Andy and Shayne. I guess this would be an 800 quid gamble. Back to the drawing board.

Hi all - hoping your collective wisdom can help. I want to replace the rear axle case (close to rotting through and all over in nasty condition). It's an axle with rear differential lock, so I know that I need an axle case that's the same. My 90 does not have ABS but the only new rear axle...

When you said you'd bought them for your Colorado I thought that meant they were known to be for a Colorado, not that you were in dispute with someone about whether they fit or not. They look about the same as my old ones from memory but that's all I can say - they might be subtly different...

They are for the lower bumper lights. I used to have them fitted to mine, but took them off as they basically rusted through! I got a few years out of them. Genuine Toyotal parts and they fitted well and securely. They were offered as part of a 'trail pack' available from main dealers. I also...

I had a slightly erratic idle problem (less regular than what you describe), which sometimes led to the engine almost stalling. I can't explain why, but one day I cleaned up an earth point (it was quite dirty and corroded) from the battery negative to the inner wing and that cured the problem...

Bob's boxes would undoubtedly be the best bet. However i got lucky buying a second hand box (mine split when I overtightened the drain plug - not clever: a moment of madness with a breaker bar). It is a gamble of course but how many scrapped Colorados will have a sound transfer box? I'm guessing...

Great story Shane!! I can just picture it. We're not totally hillbilly round here (thankfully as I'm an incomer myself) but people do keep their eyes open. I found myself in a very rural bit of North Lincolnshire a couple of months ago in connection with my work. I was stopped and taking photos...

I would say that a potential thief wouldn't make himself known by asking after a car face-to-face. I still think it unlikely, but it's probably important not to understimate the potential stupidity of crims (or the power of addiction). The village down the road from where I live suffered a...

I've had this before, with a bloke enquiring after a particularly ratty-looking 1990 Passat estate provided by work that I had parked on my drive for ages. My mum gets it frequently because she owns a nice VW campervan that she rarely drives these days. She gets rather anxious about it...

Front ball joint... :shifty:

Sometimes people use the term torsion bar to mean anti-roll bar. Otherwise no, LCs don't have torsion bar suspension. He might have meant coil spring, which could of course cause your problem.

Drain holes at the bottom of the sills and the base of the control arm turrets (to front and to back of each turret) on the back axle... make sure they're all clear. I drilled the turret holes a bit wider. They're too small otherwise and simply clog up with mud, meaning your truck just carries...

I'd try getting a new key cut before anything else, if possible. I got a new key cut at my local key cutting place (complete with transponder), which solved a similar problem years ago and has worked ever since.

I did the wheel test to determine mine, as Shayne suggests. It was straightforward. It's just that you can't assume what it is based on vehicle/engine/gearbox/year.

:icon-biggrin: That's me! I'm just as in the dark about what diff ratios were fitted to what as I was back in 2016. I never found a chart anywhere (or found out what R57 etc meant).

I found it impossible to discover the 'rules' for the diff ratios fitted to the 90 series when I looked into it a few years ago. Mine is a 3-door 1KZ-TE manual with 4.1:1 for example, but I believe other similar vehicles are 4.3:1. There was originally a big sticker on one of the front axle...

All the stock snorkels I have seen stick up waaaaay above the roofline and look a bit goofy. My tip is to cut a couple of inches off the top of the upright tube before fitting the head. Don't go too far or the head won't fit comfortably due to the bend in the tube. Looks much better and you can...

I have the same controller on mine. I'm sure that I've read somewhere that two different types were fitted to the 90 series. (Mine doesn't work.)

Some good sleuthing. It's worth adding that these can take off-road (ab)use very well (within reason) and that should not in itself put a buyer off if the price is right, and it fits the purpose for which you want it. My Collie's bodywork is battered, bits are misaligned and the grille is held...

Personally I wouldn't bother with a K&N filter. I have used them (or similar) extensively out of a sort-of misplaced idea that they were 'better'. However I've given up on them. There is no noticeable difference in performance. However, what you are committing to is the near-impossible task of...

Yes, thanks. Potentially very handy.

Try adding a little more fluid to the reservoir. I had a similar problem (occasional brake warning light) and it cured it, even though it looked as if the level was fine. I only added a small amount. Cheap and easy to rule out.

To avoid having to drop the ARB and panhard rod you can use spring compressors. It takes a fair bit of fiddling to get the compressors into the right position to actually tighten them. I've done it twice now and it is easier if you swear a lot.

It may be gummed up with muck.

+1 for Modvrs's set of ball joint separators. I have exactly the same kit and it's perfect.

I've used Monroe, Pedders and Tokico. All of them were fine. My OE shocks went exactly like yours, with the top stud snapping off. A matter of age I think, rather than inherent problem with the shock.

My 90 has no ABS, but it does have an LSV. The LSV is perhaps a hangover from the days before ABS was added.

I wonder if you could find some 2nd hand shields from a SWB? I bet they would fit.

Hmm. Not sure. It could be leaking from the point where the steering column entres the rack, which is on the opposite side of the big hex nut. Of course it's possible to refurbish a rack and replace the seals but I was advised by my old mechanic that it's rarely worth attempting unless you're an...

I don't see a seal in there

The big nut is the rack adjustement nut which allows the tension on the steering rack to be increased or decreased. I can't remember what the set-up is inside it but there are some old threads with photos I vaguely recall. You could try tightening up the big nut, but don't overdo it otherwise...

SWBs had the same metal pair up front, then two full width plastic guards bridging the entire gap between the chassis rails. One where your odd stubby shield is, and a second one behind that. That's certainly what mine has anyway. The plastic guards are really good and heavy duty considering...

You can get a 'flat' key cut for not much money at a key cutting place, which obviously won't start the car but will get you in if you've left the main key inside. Mine came with it but I don't know if it's an original Toyota one. That said, I've never locked myself out in seven years although...

Yes, that's why I keep it in my wallet and not in the house :icon-biggrin:

I have a spare, flat (non-immobilser) key that I have sellotaped to a business card and that lives permanently in my wallet. Just in case.

A Ford Ranger oil filter is a direct fit. I believe it is exactly the same filter as the Toyota one (I can't remember where I first read that) and it costs about a third of the price: Ford XM3J 6731 AA or Ford 1213438. I get Ford Motor Company branded ones off Ebay for a tenner or so.

I can't say I've ever found it to be a problem. However, you might try looking at some of the many Land Rover forums. If anyone is an expert on noise reduction it will be a Defender owner! (Personally I enjoy the noise of an old Defender, but I get that it could become a bit wearing for a daily...

I fear this is likely to be the best prediction about the whole affair, sadly.

Nice one! Mine did not come out as easily. But replacing it was one of the best things I've done to the LC

I can't help with the ECU side of things, but the mechanism of the diff locker does have a limited life particularly if it is unused for a long time so I would also try to rule out a mechanical issue too.

We just beat Pakistan in the cricket one dayers too. Pakistan are a great side. For those who don't know, our entire team (and management) was made to isolate for some Covid reason, so it was actually the England B-team, drawn up at the very last moment, that won a comprehensive 3-0 series victory.

Is that the connector for a rear diff lock? But I see that you have a model that doesn't have one. If so it might just be redundant wiring. I'm not sure, but there are some pictures elsewhere on the forum of the wiring for the rear difflock so might be worth checking.

They're all like that mate. Seriously. Lube will help a bit (silicone sprayon the runners). But I've read a few people say theirs are a bit noisy. Ever since I've had the truck (60,000 miles or so) mine seem to sound as though they're on the way out when in fact they're fine.

It's always good to know of potential problems. Certainly it's one of the more 'available' proper 4x4s as they seem to have been making it forever and it's on my list for the future. I was aware of the fuel pump problem, but I just don't know how widespread problems are. Is it a bit like the...

I can't find any obvious ref to the grab handle in the online parts diagram, either with or without airbag versions. Am I missing something? (Like the OP I could use a passenger grab handle for similar reasons.)...

Is that OEM? VW campers have dash grab handles that look a bit like that.