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Nice, are those the ones from aliexpress for the 70 series?

Just undo the all the bolts and break the sealant and it should come of

This is what came up my mind aswell. With only 3 calipers the pistons might not move far enough to leak internally. With 4 calipers the pistons need to push more fluid and thus perhaps move along an imperfection in the bore wich creates an internal leak.

No shims behind the pads. Faulty master keeps coming up in my mind aswell. I’ve ordered a rebuilt kit, and might just get another new one aswell. The old one that came off was faulty, as the rear part of rear brake piston was broken off and jammed crooked inside the bore, impossible to remove...

I have done this exactly like you described, but I think the line from the Y joint of the front circuit is not connected to the rear circuit. It is only a “signal” line so the LSPV, but fluid cannot go to the rear circuit I think.

I have plugged the outlets of the master and pedal is rock hard, same with the engine running. So I think it checks ok? I removed the ABS pump and temporarily bypassed it with some custom made copper lines, resulting in the same spongy pedal. Because I have braided steel flexible lines that I...

With me it worked really good! The ABS pump went crazy. The MC has been changed for an aftermarket one.

LSPV and arm have been replaced. Literally everything except ABS pump and the booster. Brakes have been bled with the 80 on jackstands, the wheels spinning, and applying the brakes while bleeding each wheel and LSPV, in different orders aswell. This way ABS actuates whilst bleeding. Changed...

All calipers have been rebuilt and move free. Rebuilding the old master is an option indeed. I’ve bled the master by cracking the unions while my pressure bleeder is on it. I think it will be the same result?

I really did not want to open another spongy brakes thread, but after reading so many threads on here and Mud and not finding an answer I am a bit out of options. My 80 has had the low spongt brake pedal for years, and for some reason I figuered it was just an 80 thing, untill a drove a couple...

It's play in crownwheel/pinion, spider gears and halfshaft splines in the spider gears. Not much to do about it except taking everything apart and replacing the diff center and halfshafts and adjusting the diff again.

On the rear the yokes are in line, on the front they are 90 degrees to each other. This is correct I think?

Every year I have to replace my u-joints , they seem to last only 15,000km or so. I have tried genuine, OEM GMB, GKN, etc they all go after a year. My 80 is lifted 3 - 4", front has caster correction bushes, the rear arms are stock. There is play in both slipjoints. I grease them with every...

GKN/Löbro is a good alternative. GKN is a OEM supplier for most German car manufacturers.

I only run SKF or Lobro/Spidan CV's. Really good priced and a quality product. They hold up with 35's and heavy right foot in serious offroad, so thats fine for me.

hdj80 with flares you need et-25, without flares et0. But you can still use your wheels with 315 tyres, they are 3cm wider than what you have now so it won't pop off as easy. I have friends with 315/75R16 on 10" rims and they never had any problem. I myself had one pop off in a side slope rut...

The Wink turbo is a wastegated version, for the 80 series. However, they rebuilt my mates HDJ100 turbo and highflowed it. It goes pretty well ! And the price still nowhere near a new OEM turbo. I would stay clear from cheap ebay / chinese turbo's! And buy one from a respectable shop.

You give more fuel to the injector pump, so yes the Idle rises as you increase the maximum fuel screw.

Put it in Low, and turn the difflock switch, see if anything lights up. If you are not sure yours has the lockers, take a look at the axles, and see if there are difflock motors on the differential housing, on the right side.

I run them, no problems. Mind you it is "only" 30mm... Your previous wheel offset was -25, so it's only 5mm more. Just make sure they are torqued, and not too tight or loose.

You can just solder the plug from your actuator on that one, problem fixed

I would just throw the supplied switch in the bin, the supplied switches are fake carling copy's tough... The contact tend to burn out quick on those.

If you pay that amount of money make sure it is a genuine ARB compressor. The chinese supplier for ARB also sell them under their own brand name ( HF gears). I have the chinese one, it cost me 180 USD + shipping to Europe, I have put it next to a genuine ARB and it is 100% the same.

Most of the time it's the magnets falling loose in the electric motor cap. I would check that first, it's the easiest.

Someone in Belgium sells fiberglass inner and outer front fenders, but I don't think they ship it anywhere. Only collect I guess.

Mine starts rough too when cold, but I believe it is because the ACSD has been removed. Your problems sounds like said above. I'd give the handprimer a few pumps untill it gets hard, probably it'll start much better. Maybe an electric lift pump is a solution for you. I have a small Facet...

Same thing here... tried sealing it all the way around between rubber/glass with sealant but impossible to keep it dry in the corner.

I have tried the Philips H4 LED’s and just as with any other H4 LED bulbs they just cannot compete with a decent halogen setup. They look bright at first sight , but my Philips xtreme vision with uprated wiring throw a lot more light to the side of the roads, and also further up the road. I had...

Not bigger, but it has different geometry wich makes it spool up faster.

If you are on a budget, the best thing money can buy is a used HDJ100 non VNT turbo

+1 on the Wink turbo. It’s on another level compared to stock. They had a Gturbo that failed prematurely, and then they made it better themselfs.

Rebuild it, or get it rebuilt the correct way, that way it will serve you a long time and you know what you have. It's possible the crank can be grinded again to under spec. I would also get the injectors checked, common thing to wear out BEBs like that when an injector is faulty.

One of them is the BACS (Boost altitude compensation) solenoid, the other is the SICS (Startup Injection Control) solenoid. SICS gives more fuel when starting cold, this one you can disconnect and hook up directly to it’s vacuum source, this will give overall more fueling. It’s the one with...

If this would be the case then he has to hear his injection pump ticking loud. Mine did, reason unkown, no air visible trough clear fuel line, so it had to be the lift pump being worn a bit, I fitted a inline electric fuel pump and problem went away, slightly more power too.

If your injector pattern are not up to spec anymore and they are dripping it CAN result in cracked pistons and or busted bottom end bearings. The only way to tell is to get them tested and rebuilt if necessary.

€2500 and 1 year warranty. I’m passing :)

Thanks for that, I've been thinking of buying my friends 80 but decided not to because it does not have A/C, seeing that these guys are 5km from me it might be worth a look.

I had a bronze bush fail... It makes a very loud squeeky noise. If you want to replace it, replace it with on OEM bush or replaces the complete spindle with the new style roller bearing. The roller bearing can be ordered seperate but does not fit in all the spindles.

You can order them on autodoc. I have the smoked LED ones.

Indeed use only genuine seals! Not the shit Karson ones... I've sleeved mine, a bit less worse then yours tough... I filled it up with Loctite bearing glue. After 10,000 km I had the shaft out and still looked like new.

At first I did mine hand tight but I could not seem to get it right and sometimes they came loose ( I run 35s tough) Then I found this method on Ih8mud and this worked a threat ! copy paste: We would do the bearing preload rotate then tighten again, rotate. Then we would back off to the point...

Barn door or not has not much to do with UN spec or not however they do seem to prefer them. I always believed the barn doors were standard on the GX (low spec models without wheel arch flares and clotch interior etc), and the tailgate was optional on those, and stock on the VX models. I have...

I would check the solenoid first ... Or at least replace it when in doubt before spending big money on a new converter.

What spec is a HDJ81? My europe spec HDJ80 does not have this feature...

It is done alot to Patrols over here aswell, and indeed, it is supposed to be really easy. Cut out sill, weld in box section and finish it off as you like. I've been thinking of repairing my sills this way aswell. It's easy, and is very strong, almost like built-in rocksliders.

You might also want to check out these: http://www.futura4x4.com/35-Nouveautes/301-SCORPION-3.html I know someone who has them and he swears by them, and claims it totally transforms the ride quality. He mainly uses his 80 for overland trips to Spain, Morocco, Balkan etc

I’ve always been thinking of a 80 series with 45 series pickup body and a trayback with rollcage :sunglasses:

Now that I have cleaned the hub out i found there is also a hairline crack around the face where the bearing race sits. I cannot imagine how this could crack but to be sure I have ordered a new hub wich comes with new bearings aswell :pensive:

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