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I don't jack the car up, just slide under with it on its wheels. Safe as you like. Not sure if clearance is much less on the 200 but it feels like you shouldn't need to lift it that much?

I do u joints on the drive, just slide under and stick the grease pump on.

I'm half tempted to use 0W40 to match my car, but the price puts me off, it would simplify things though.

Did a 3k oil change, greased the prop shafts and air filter. Decided to refit my sump guards then realised why they weren't on. I then remembered that one of the bolts snapped off. Manager to get a nut welded on and got it out though, so not too much drama in the end.

From my manual, some info on speeds you can switch at. For auto gearboxes, use neutral instead of the clutch.

Bit late but welcome back Stu, good to see you round these parts again.

Oil change. Trying to track down the MOT man's "oil leak but not excessive", no joy yet. My heater wasn't working, flushed the matrix, seemed fine, then noticed the heater control valve cable was hanging loose. Connected it up and heat restored. Removed the MAP sensor filter and cleaned it...

I had a quick watch and that looks normal to me - it should go out once oil pressure builds (which takes a few seconds).

Normal temperature for the thermostat opening is 82C which is hot enough to burn you, so the fact that it felt hot is not unusual. If the water pump wasn't circulating I would expect the radiator to be cooler than expected as the heat would not be getting pumped there from the engine.

Rear fog is the thing stuck under the bumper - JDM models don't have a rear fog from the factory (though they do have the switch in the dash).

Not sure how easy these are to source, but if you can get the japanese version of the cluster it is set up for indicators.

Could be the valve which allows water into the heater matrix is broken or has become disconnected. It's at the top back of the engine in the middle on the firewall - check to see that the cable moves the valve as you would expect. Alternatively your heater matrix could be blocked. You can also...

Thought I'd post an update on this. I managed to source a new compressor, and after a couple of visits to Chill Out to fit it and cap the rear pipework off (it was leaking badly) I have air con. I'd very much recommend him for air con, excellent service, not expensive, nice chap.

Probably need to check if the signal is reaching the dash (a multimeter would do this). I imagine it gets sent a signal from the gearbox, so the fault could be anywhere in the dash, loom or gearbox electronics.

Yes it is.

I don't have a screen to display codes on. The controls are like this. The AC light is continuous when it's switched on.

My cruiser predates odb2 so I've not read any codes off it.

Took it up to chill out, my compressor is seized. Any opinions on second hand vs remanufactured for this sort of thing?

I have Aldi's cheapest oil pump which I use for gear oil, it's surprisingly good, way quicker and easier than hand pumping.

Part two of fixing the steering and suspension. Looking a lot tidier now. Just need to get an alignment booked in.

I was planning to do the inner tie rod joints anyway, but just as well. The boots have perished and let a load of water in. LBJs looking a bit tired too.

Doing the tie rod ends and lower ball joints today. Just clocked this chap though. Guess I need to do the front drop links too. It never rains...

Tyre rotation on the non-cruiser car. And then greased the prop shaft on my cruiser. Also checked the transfer case oil, it has a very slight weep but seems OK.

Anyone know of one that will actually did stuff, rather just doing regasses? Mine has a leak but finding anyone willing to take it on is proving hard work.

The engine has just been rebuilt so almost certainly not clogged.

I've not had it happen while under power, it only happens at idle (usually just after pulling off the motorway when stopping at the junction). I should probably check the fuel filter at least.

How does the air get trapped? Surely it should get pumped out eventually? Also where does it trap air?

I've used torque (app) with a generic code reader without issues on newer stuff, but that's not going to help much if the vehicle doesn't have odb2.

I'm having an intermittent misfire like condition (except its a diesel, 1kzte) only when the engine has been running continously for a couple of hours. When the revs drop to idle it will run badly and blow smoke from the exhaust like fuel is being thrown into the exhaust. Turning the ignition...

Fog light fixed. It had been wired to a mystery switch in the dash. Not sure why given there's the OEM switch and relay present. A bit of wire pulling and I have it wired to the correct switch through a fused relay. Meanwhile my handbrake is being an arse because the adjustment hole is...

Took mine for mot today, failed. So I guess I'm fixing those issues. Just a dead fog light (wiring issue), blown headlight and handbrake needs tightening, so overall not too bad.

*Quietly sobs with a blown engine*

Bump up on this after some hiatus. It's in for an engine rebuild currently - turbo was siezed solid so that may be a culprit on the other damage.

No sheen on the oil - it looked normal and I thought I might have gotten away with it until I got to the bottom of the drain pan and found that lot. Most of the swarf is non-magnetic, however that curved piece is magnetic. Very odd. @Shayne is that engine likely to be good though? Also it's...

It sounded like a bag of nails even on tick over so unlikely to be that. I wasn't giving it any beans when it died in any event.

It's about 5-6mm long and about 1mm in cross section. I guess it's worth pulling the sump off as much as I can and maybe getting the intake off the turbo at least to have a look at that.

You're saying a trick of the camera. I've taken the larger parts out of the oil and cleaned them. No hex shaped rods. The hook shaped piece is 0.7×1.2mm on cross section fwiw.

Pretty sure that's two unconnected pieces.

Don't think there's an allen key in there, what makes you say that?