Search results

Mine are 31 years old and with the highest rated osram nightbreaker halogens in them, i have zero complaints on the range or dipped range. The main beam is outstanding, especially if adjusted a bit high. I've looked at the HID aftermarket units plastered all over Ebay and they just look too...

You need to do a bit more investigating - as everyone else has stated, it could be the vibration damper has separated - which would make some noise when running, plus you would be able to see a lot of movement forwards and backwards with the engine off, belts removed and a pry bar to gently ease...

Just a quick question - can you drop a photo of this bit or what should be there - "the proper 'flange' connection to the body". Cant quite picture what that is.

Deal. Luckily i have a '93 80 series as a pattern :-D Ill drop you a line when im back and will go from there. Happy days.

Happy to oblige, but i wont be about until after 20th April.... if you can wait that long. If you get a shout before that, all good. I'll even put the bends and twiddly bits on too :-D

Off topic swerve here - apologies... Links for front and rear washer nozzles (genuine) - Rear - https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/8539260010 Front - https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/toyota/land-cruiser/9-suv-left-80-1990-2762/electrics-4/windshield-washer-371 Hope thats useful

..... or making sure the union is behind the flare before you make any tight radius bends... ;-P

You could try Amayama for the pre-made lines, but id be very very doubtful theyll be available, and shipping them would be a cluster ferk, due to the originals being steel with a PVC coating - the length alone will be like 3m and all manner of different bent shapes and curves

Heres the tool i bought eventually.... its a godsend, but a bit pricey. Sooooo much easier to use and can be used on the vehicle, in situ so makes life a lot simpler - https://www.sealey.co.uk/product/5637193403/on-vehicle-micro-brake-pipe-flaring-tool-316-sae

Running new lines and flaring/nippling them is one of my most favouritest things - and self taught on the flaring. However, flaring tools and a satisfactory result vary vastly. I will try and find out which flaring tool i used, as i bought 3 different kits that were dreadful, eventually settling...

Definitely worth doing on a dry day!.... its a bit of a fiddle if you haven't got it under cover and need it in a hurry. But do also check the trunnions at each wiper arm for any signs of major corrosion and seizure. A good way to identify this is to put the wipers on with a spray of water on...

And another link that shows the motor in bits... from another forum - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/windshield-wiper-motor-after-16-years-and-300-000-miles.588373/

Also worth making sure the linkage to wiper trunnions are not all rusted up as its steel shafts and aluminium housings - can get furred up without lubrication. Heres a fairly scruffy video off youtube -

Actually, its pretty easy, but the motor needs to come off the ball end of the wiper linkage and there's 3 or 4 M6 bolts holding the motor unit to the body - plus the multi pin plug to disconnect. The ball end of the linkage pops off quire easy with a wide screw driver to gently prise it off -...

Hi LandLocked, not wanting to hijack the thread, but i didnt think there were any adverse issues with spacers. I'm curious now... I've got 30mm all round and the standard 8J 16 wheels with 265 tyres sit perfect in the arches. I've had no issues in over 40'000 miles with bearing wear, or ball...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B006E90XP8?psc=1&smid=APVB5IVDJXT38&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp That's the stuff.... dangerously good gear!!

Hello mate. I had exactly this problem for a lonnnnng time. I thought it was the bushes in the wiper trunnions - so liberally lubricated with Wurth HS2000.... didnt really help... Finally bit the bullet on buying the full wiper linkage and fitted that at great annoyance and expense.... wasnt...

Good question, but mines tired and stock - needing injectors and pump overhauling after 180'000 miles, and generates about 6psi. I think its the same blower that's on the supra, MR2 and others.... so probably capable of being beasted - but again, if you're serious about going up in tune, a good...

Out of interest, do you know the boost pressure increase you're getting now with the GTurbo?

To be honest, the pump specialist would know how far is too far, but exhaust temps and smoke output would be the ones to keep an eye on. Obviously, more fuelling equals more black smoke, and more boost pressure will reduce that (air/fuel ratios etc)... but - that then raises exhaust temps and...

Hello mate, I would very much doubt that there is a compatible nozzle that would give a greater burn or offer increased fuel delivery. In fact, as opposed to a modern diesel injector (common rail electronic etc), these are designed specifically to match the design of the piston combustion...

For the record, i would like to confirm that i will kindly refuse any cake you offer me - should that situation ever arise. Purely a precautionary measure. :D:character-chef:

Mines manual, but i rarely tow anything. You're saying all the right things here... might just pull the pin and go for the 285/75's and if it doesn't work out... I'm sure someone will be happy for a set of barely worn Toyo Open Country boots :laughing: I will miss that faux safety net of always...

Hi Grimbo, you know what... that is exactly the info i was looking for but didnt really ask the question - if that makes sense! I figured the larger rolling circumference would add a bit of extra load but once up to speed and cruising, would benefit fuel economy. At the actual 70mph (80...

Hi Rexsin, Have a look at the document in the link, and it shows the full load screw tip simply makes contact with the "corrector lever" of the governor link. Removing it and keeping the lock nut in the same position shouldnt affect anything internally. The link is for a Bosch VE pump, but the...

Oooouuufff... well i have the 1-HDT... so will i need a yellow flashing beacon like one of Fred Dibnahs traction engines?

Thats excellent news... I've calculated that the additional profile from 70 to 75 will give an extra 2" of overall diameter - which is what i was looking for. I'm on standard height suspension, soon to be refreshed with the Pedders standard height stiffer springs - but will restore about 2.5" of...

With your 285/75's did you notice a huge drop in power? Also, did the extra width have any adverse effect on normal tarmac driving? I find driving mine with the 265/70's, its effortless but always a bit of a landslug when driving up any major hills...

Hello mate, Gutted to say that i just recently threw away my old standard downpipe and fitted a new one from Roughtrax... Was sat on the drive for months too, until i got a skip and hoyed it in. However, if you're ok to wait 3 weeks, (I'm away working atm) i do have a replacement turbo outlet...

Thank you so much for the reply.... as for the LT mention, is that for Light Truck - meaning heavy loading?

Hello fellow nutters. I currently have Continental Cross Contact M&S 265/70 R16's fitted on my original 8J 1993 alloys. They have exceeded 30'000 road miles now and looking almost ready for renewal. However - there doesn't seem to be any more of these available in 265 or wider. I'm gutted...

Apart from Ebay for persons breaking them, your best bet is to register on Amayama, stick in your VIN code and they pretty much have everything - but takes a while to recieve as they either ship from Japan or UAE. Import duty is also likely - but all genuine brand new parts at very reduced costs...

When i had issues with mine, this was the post i found and the actions to remedy it.... https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/intermittent-speedometer.130650/ But after stripping out the cluster (what an absolute "cluster" of a job that was) i found mine to be ok... put it all back...

Coincidentally, this happened to me 2 weeks ago. I think its a water ingress problem at the sender - and with the massive amounts of surface water lately (not climate change btw, just a lack of highway maintenance) i think it must have had a dousing. My speedo suddenly decided to flicker between...

Try this page on Amayama. Hopefully the item/diagram numbers are clickable https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/toyota/land-cruiser/9-suv-left-80-1990-2762/body-and-interior-3/hood-front-fender-178

Bit pricey, but these guys are great to deal with - https://goodstate.com.au/parts/a76a92730d2a6eb03c15c55f15fac209 Ive bought quite a lot from GoodState, so may be able to get that discount rate if you want to go down that route. I also highly recommend trawling all 4x4 breakers globally...

I had the same issues with my 80 a few years ago, i discovered that almost all Toyota cars of and around the age of my truck had the same motors. I went around a few scrap yards and car breakers near me, and found the MR2, Celica, Supra etc etc all had the same motors. Nice and cheap swap out -...

Ouuufff.... a definite clenching moment! Likely a near miss with a trouser soiling event also! :-D :-D

I think at 238k, downshifting to second without a bit of resistance would be a tall order .... so all things considered, I think you're doing ok

Hello John, welcome in! Youre among fellow nutters now and no judgement on GS or VX or any of the other multiple unpronounceable gender identities will be passed in here. Thats a lovely truck! Btw.... I think its a disappointment that the clutch failed so prematurely at 283k miles... must have...

Haha... I was just adding the element of suspenders... I mean suspense. It was a Fuchs titan semi synthetic.. gear syn or some such. I dont have the can anymore but I'm absolutely certain it was stated as GL4/GL5 (I won't bet my mortgage on that though) Come to think of it, is there such a...

Hello folks, This is probably well known but i thought id pass this on - I recently replaced my gearbox oil with a very well known brand 75W-90 GL4/GL5 and immediately found the gears were notchy at all temperatures - and when cold, selecting 2nd gear while even crawling was a fight. Forget...

Congratulations on both counts Dave! I hope you're all clear, but excellent result on getting back mobile!

Ouuufff....!! That's harsh A 6 monthly MOT?!? No doubt its a money maker rather than a safety thing

Youre absolutely spot on. The ones on there now will be originals, at 30 years old they've fared extremely well. I do value my truck and the comfortable ride, so yes, its worth it without a doubt. Have just checked out Amayama, and they can supply all, including shipping for 300 quid. Ill go for...

Just spoken to Toyota.... All bushes for the radius Arms, leading and trailing arms - and the two panhard rods - 1071 quid!!!!!! A bag of sand!!!

After all the advice and experience offered up in this thread, I'm already regretting the poly bushes purchase! The only real reason I went for them was everything was available and easy to pick (on RoughTrax) but also a little of me was considering the cost. I was worried the polys would be...

Thats what these nolothane ones are, a sort of very dark blue/purple colour. I seem to have stoked a good bit of discussion with this thread, but I was swayed to the poly bushes on price... thats always a false cause really, often ending up paying twice for inferior longevity etc... Anyway...

Awww hells bananas.... ive already bought bushes for everything that can be bushed - in nolathane poly ... Ill be adopting the position and lubing up on Monday for another call to Toyota. If bolts were quoted at 460, I will expect an equally knee wobbling number for the bushes. Have to say...

Yep.... that included all washers and nuts for a refresh of bolts for all front and rear arms and the radius arms... But still a bold number! The reason given was "because its such a old vehicle"