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sometimes it has taken me a few tries for it to engage properly and when not engaged it would make no noise... keep trying a few times and in different positions...

I had the same experience as above, usually it just needs repositioning for the gear to re-engage

even the new oem don't seem to last anywhere near the original OEM lower ball joints now. I had milner's off road ones and they lasted a really short time, less then a year. I drive my 90 quite a lot off road but nothing too extreme. I inspect the ball joints at every oil change and before any...

aww good that damage was limited... from experience the LBJ from roughtrax are slightly better then the ones from Milners but they are both pretty low quality, I'd suggest OEM toyota or Sanko 555 only for the LBJ I had a set from milner that developed a crazy amount of slop in just 6000 miles

it works well, my thinking is that the undercoat products are brilliant if you own a new vehicle and protect it from new but the lanolin based ones do a better job when you are taking care of a vehicle that does have some surface rust. try Buzzweld next time, about 1/2 to 1/3 of the price of...

well done taking care of it. chasing rust is never fun and slightly stressful... I have been very happy in the last few years using Lanoguard initially and now switching to Buzzweld chassis guard. they need re applying but they seem to work very well. the buzzweld one particularly and is really...

I bought a steering wheel hoping it would fit my 90 but the airbag has a different shape so the unit for the 90 doesn't fit. part number should be 4510060490C0 03-13 comes with the cruise controll stalk and the cowl at the back with the clip in sides. leather is in very good condition say 30£...

Loose bushes on the lower arms would definitely mess with braking as they would change geometry. It’s not too bad of a job. Can be rebushed or roughtrax has them with the bushes. For the ball joints I’d suggest 555 or oem, I’ve had lower ball joints from milners and from roughtrax and they don’t...

I clean regularly the maf with a specific cleaner (highly volatile and no oil) and works well. A malfunctioning maf or tps should throw a code, usually without cel light but the code will still show if you jump the contacts. Good shout about the different maf, I think one has a 3 pin plug and...

Do uou have a suspension lift on your 90? If so a slight pull when light braking would be quite normal unless you install a pan hard correction kit. Lifting the suspension but not changing the pan hard set up moves the rear axle to the left (about 1” to the left with a 2” lift)

Sorry I missed this… I’d have suggested cleaning the MAF as one of the first things…. If you have fuel, air and spark then the classics are dirty maf sensor or faulty tps or, for rough idle, dirty iac valve. As the 5VZFE is quite rare over here I often find great info on Us 3rd gen 4Runner...

it's an easy job, slips upwards no problem, I can't remember but I think it was bumper off to reach the bottom two bolts that hold the rad, may be able to reach them through the bumper though

thank you for this ancient thread... I just received a steering wheel that I scored on ebay and while I thought that would be the process... well, thanks for confirming my thoughts!

No worries, next I would like to figure out (without rush luckily) is the headers to cat section, always thought the y pipe joining from the headers is a huge restriction but custom costs are just ridiculous

yeah... well... was a bit of a gamble and not ideal but it is a fairly mild quality SS (304 I think) so it took the weld fine with regular wire and co-argon. if it had been a more fancy stainless would have been more complicated.. I'll probably give it a coat of high temp paint to protect the...

just reporting back... done the exhaust mid box last weekend, I ended up grafting in the SS diesel mid box from Milners, looks well made, 304 stainless, and chep enough. had to cut about 10" off the front pipe and couple it with the front end of the old mid box (flanges were different so...

sorry should have said, I have the 5VZFE 3.4 petrol, the top hose reads 84 to 90, when the temp gauge on the cluster is at normal op temperature, feels pretty accurate as the 5VZFE has an 84C thermostat adn can tell it climbs slowly but steadily to 83-84 when warming up and then it stays for a...

most ports on the block are NPT, I added a temp gauge too but went for the easy way and added it in the top rad hose with a splice adapter.

I had thought there may be some audio reason for the upgrade, I think in that case it makes sense, running a big amp etc.. I have a 95 too, from all the (little) info I found all petrol were getting the 60A alt and the diesel versions an 80 but not sure, I know the Aus spec 5VZFE 95 has a...

I looked into it, the 90 series 5vzfe gets a crappy 60A alternator from factory. I found that there is quite a variability on the CS144 alterantors, cheap ones are just cheap and not very reliable, the good ones were very expensive but there are some middle ground ones sold via Amazon...

I've used Lanoguard for a couple of years on my 90 series, it's a good product, much bettter then any petrol/oil/tar based ones -hate that stuff- it is also kind to bushes and doesn't make working on the vehicle an absolute nightmare. I find that if you drive offroad quite a bit the soft and...

as others have said, they do different jobs, the transfer box gear selector locks the centre lock, the switch engages the rear diff lock. the centre lock locks the power distribution going to front and the rear axle (40/60 I believe) the rear lock locks the axle at the rear diff so if one rear...

I managed to mount mine in the void behind the trim in the rh side in the back where teh JDM versions have the rear aircon, it's tricky to make a good bracket but there is quite a lot of room to work with.

Hi Pedro, if you are confident that the alignment was done in specs consider that they do have front and rear anti roll bars, check the links but unlikely to be the cause, a classic cause would be warn upper or lower ball joints or, more likely, the bushes in the lower or upper caster arms are...

Good post, just wanted to add that 100C is still too hot for ATF, ideally it should live at 80C max. That’s why external coolers are really important as a rad cooler will keep the atf at 88 or so art running temps

I don't think so, the rad may not help cooling as much as it should but what creates heat is transmission slip, does it feel responsive when accellerating or does it feel like it's slipping a bit? I'd refresh teh fluid, burnt fluid heats up faster and slips. is the fluid level correct? transfer...

burnt atf is the most likely culprit and would cause the transmission to slip and heat up too much. when was it last serviced? I'd say drain, drop the pan, change the filter and refill with fresh fluid to assess. Not sure at what temperatures the AT oil light comes on on the 100 series but...

with the paperclip trick you can read the stored codes. if you triggered the code you need to pull a fuse (EFI possibly?) in the fuse box to reset it or take the battery off for 10 min should work too.

Hi Bomber, welcome, if you are new to the 90 series, have a read about lower ball joints... they are one key thing to take care of... and don't get the ones from Milner offroad. rust on the rear end is always an issue, good to take care of it before winter and grit spreading too. personally I...

Just had a quote back from a local radflo fitter… 995£ for the cat back… Sounds a bit much I think!

thanks for the input, the SS costs don't sound exhorbitant will likely investigate, where did you get it done? Did you keep it 2.25" or did you size up? the Y pipe is still in pretty good condition on mine but I know eventually will need to be made and will have to be a custom one. wonder if...

yes, mine is definitely already an aftermarket one, don't have the valve..damn, 846Euro... I tink was listed for 300GBP on amayama with shipping... I think I may try the diesel midbox for the diesel from milners...

thanks MODVRS! I'm hoping the cat is still good really, also because they are impossible to find new it seems as only European market had the cat and you probably know as well as me how few petrol there are in Europe... fitting an aftermarket cat sounds like an absolute gambel on emissions... I...

as far as I know (and I've looked quite a bit into the LBJ options) not OEM ball joint was ever greasable. apparently the quality of the OEM toyota is still superior to aftermarket but changes in production mean they don't last nearly 200K miles any more. I had a set bought from Milner that...

looking for some info and possibly some direct experiences... I have a LWB with the 3.4 V6 and in the last few weeks it has developed a rumble under acceleration that disappears once you back off the accelerator, sounds very much like some lose baffles in the muffler resonating. I have seen that...

old sticky thresd but just wanted to add to it, I've done a body lift on my LWB around 2 month ago, I used the 1.5" kit from Milner Off Road that included the steering spacer. it was a bit of a faff reaching the bolts from the inside (never like poping plastics and trims) but overall all done in...

hah they were certainly done for! did you put the poly on the steering rack too? they made a huge difference when I changed mine (rebushed all teh front end in poly) for the rack ones a C clamp for the vertical bush was absolutely essential...and lots of grease. the steering is so much better...

you can check part numbers of everything on your truck accessing the original build sheet from Toyota on Toyota parts catalog - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club] and searching your Vin number. it's a great resource that lists everything down to the last bolt...

on the 90 series is quite common for the rear heater hoses to perish and leak small amounts of coolant so if you're losing coolant but oil looks good and exhaust doesn't smell of coolant/ smokes white I'd have a look under there. regarding a sudden total coolant loss warning the only meaningful...

True, I remember when I was looking for my 90 there was a huge variance on amount of rust on the rear quarter of the underside it does depend a lot on what life and maintenance they had for the first 20y of their life… I know people that have never looked at the underside of their car and the...

Not unlikely, by the time the bushes need replacing the turrets can be pretty toast with rust too. I’ve seen some nice weld on reinforcements made for the 3rd gen 4Runner

completely agree, I rebushed the steering rack and the lower control arms about 4 month ago and the difference in the steering was night and day, the bushes get a bad rep for squeaks but if you grease them well they are just fine.. I wonder about the snapped turrets if it could have been due to...

Hey I have one installed and used it quite a bit. It’s solid, well made product. I had to make one extra through hole in the chassis to add 2 bolts but no major mods. To fit the winch I had to hang the control solenoid to one side under the headlight

Agree, that rad is on borrowed time, and if it’s an auto transmission consider yourself lucky if you didn’t get the pink milkshake of doom.. New rad asap

you can get weld on brackets to relocate the shock mount to the outside of the chassis, meant for the 3rd gen 4runner they don't cost much and they set the rear shocks o work at a better angle, easier spot to weld too

wow, that's really strict... they barely poke out of the body. tbh adding the flares from the widebody is quite a big job, the holes are square on the body to fit the original clips, so not easy to drill, and there is the whole door side and sill trim too. I think I did see some flares for the...

I have the V6 too, it does need a bit of throttle on take off but no real hesitation. they are relatively simple engines... air-sprak-fuel are air is pretty easy, check the air filter is clean, clean the maf sensor (can make a big difference) cleaning the IAC valve under the throttle is also a...