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Hi Try the Swedish toyota4x4.se forums (you can write in English). Regarding wheel alignment, it is common that the ones selling tires do this. No need for a Land Cruiser specialist for that. Search for Euromaster or similar where you live.

Hi @philt350 No, unfortunately not fixed yet. I have not had the chance to work on it, more than that I got a techstream readout saying something in the line of "Immobilizer malfunction"

Okay, yes, I am also thinking along those lines now :? But I have no extra thingy attached to the key ring. And as mentioned before, I have had it running, so could not be that I am missing that thingy. But, could it maybe be controlled by the standard key? The door lock is not working great...

Have not thought much about it before, since I had it running for a while, but does anybody know what this black little thing is?

hmm.. I do not think so. I have 3 keys with which the indicator stops blinking. One is broken (cracked case), but it does not start with either of the other two. I would assume the key is recognized since it stops blinking? I also have a smaller key that is in another color, and with this one...

Investigation continues and it seems like the immobilizer indicator is not enough to be sure about the immobilizer function. Got hold of a Techstream dongle and found an error code 99(1) Engine Immobiliser System malfunction, Current. Next, need to find out what this means. :)

All fuses are exchanged for new ones according to specification when I had the junction box out. Still I am not sure it really should be 12V since the picture on page DI-71 shows a diagram with 5V marked on it. Could there be a print error in the manual, or is that highly unlikely?

As per my first post, I have followed that guide and everything is according to specification. It is not until DI-71 guide I get a kind of strange result. I am measuring 5v on SPVF on ECU which should be 9-14v. Could someone verify that it actually should be 12v?

Now I have had the time to work a bit more on the car. 1. no diesel at the injectors, so fuel is the missing link 2. transparent hose directly to the IP and gravity feed with diesel without success. Diesel does not seem to get anywhere. So, primer pump does not seem to be faulty. 3. choke valve...

I moved some of the stuff and managed to squeeze one in under the bonnet. This was on a left hand drive vehicle, not sure how it looks on a rhd.

I am not sure, but do not think this is possible since it is an electronically controlled pump on the 100. Previous owner (or more likely the workshop) removed the connectors and hard-wired them together. I guess they also suspected this, but then totally missed that the EDU needed a solid...

Okay, will try that as soon as possible.

I have a feeling that it is the fuel that is the missing piece, but I am not sure. Can I just loosen the connections of two (?, any two?) fuel lines at the rear end of the pump, and try to crank? Or how do I test this?

I have tried this, and there is fuel coming out when pumping. I also filled the hose down to the pump as good as I could before remounting it. Could it still be that air is sucked into the fuel line when trying to start?

oh, no I have not tried that. I thought that it would at least fire up a little if I was pumping the primer while cranking. The button feels a little bit dodgy, I can pump up so it gets firm but then if I wait a short while I can pump again. I also have a feeling that, when firm, I can push...

Hi Guys, I need your assistance in diagnosing and finding out why my car does not start. In short, it is cranking but not even trying to start. First, some background information. I bought it about 2 years ago and at that time it had been standing for more than 5 years after the previous...

Hi! New to this forum, so here comes a short introduction. Your name: Henrik Your Cruiser: Land Cruiser 100 -00, diesel, manual with 600.000+km, 285/75-16, ARB front, winch & snorkel Plans for your Cruiser: Get it running (bought it in none working condition). It is a hobby project, will use it...