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The transmission fluid circulates through a small cooler in the bottom of the radiator. You'll get a dribble of ATF when you take the feed and return pipes off but nothing should gush out, just replace what's lost if it amounts to much. There are many threads on here about a well known issue of...

Have a look at this thread for a nice job on a 90 https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/colorado-rear-strut-housing-repair.160429/

https://www.ns4x4.ie/parts/13517/rear-shock-absorber-and-droplink-bracket-l-h-genuine-toyota I should be on commission for these guys

The power outlets themselves have a fusible link built into them so test for continuity between the feed terminal on the back and the centre contact inside the outlet. Mine had blown in the front outlet and the one in the boot, I took the easy and possibly stupid option of soldering a piece of...

Not done it myself but this video might help. Timmy the Toolman only releases the backing plate when he's pushed the hub and bearing out. Third gen 4-Runner front suspension is the same as the 90 series

In my ten years on the forum I've seen more people have the issue with the starter solenoid contacts wearing out than any trouble with the ignition switch. It's the first thing I'd check. These were mine. Replacement parts were 15 GBP a few years ago.

Yes, I'd go with Youtube again

Don't think you can directly upload videos to the site. I stick them on Youtube and put a link on here, that works.

Nice job

When I was doing mine I spotted the tiny drain holes near the top shock mounting point, so tiny that there is no chance they would stay clear, I've added them to my long list of drain holes to poke out every year although it is probably too late now.

https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/who-is-doing-what-maintenance-today.129102/post-1590703 this was my effort

https://www.ns4x4.ie/parts/7923/rear-spring-chassis-bracket-lh had to weld mine up last year in this area, didn't buy this part as the hemi-spherical bit the shock mounts on to was OK, I just repaired the flat areas around it

Matt from High Peak on Youtube has bought a Collie. Any bets on whether he's going to "massively overspend"? This is part one, he says there will be another video.

You could try lifting all the wheels off the ground and have another go, this would at least eliminate transmission wind-up as the cause.

https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/120-lc-4-2003-190k-owned-for-11-years-fsh-4000no-offers-nw-uk.159434/ think he's referring to this one

I found it best to get the Toyota part number and search with that. They seem to use the same switch on numerous different models like the Yaris/Auris/Hilux of the same era. Guess the two door 120s are less common so maybe more difficult to find, lots of two door Yaris' though. I scoured UK...

My cheap Chinese one? Sure did.

Roughtrax sell the assembly, not replaced one but think it is only nuts and bolts https://www.roughtrax4x4.com/toyota-4x4-parts/body-parts/additional-body-parts/genuine-toyota-front-wiper-linkage-85150-60170.html

Simplest option is just to buy a new switch unit. After putting up with one of the windows on my 90 not working for the last ten years I bit the bullet and bought a cheap Chinese copy off eBay for £25. OEM was £175 from Amayama and not in stock. There were hundreds of vendors all selling...

Yes, just a heatshield, I have the same one on my V6. I tied some galvanised wire around mine in a few places ten years ago to stop it rattling and falling off. It's never moved since.

When I had idling issues with mine it was down to a clogged up IAC valve (idle air control) and a bit of carbon build up around the throttle butterfly. If it's not been cleaned in a long time it might be worth popping the throttle body off and giving it a good clean. The IAC is on the bottom of...

I'm not sure about the connector in you photo. The wiring and plug on the left looks like Toyota original equipment but the wiring on the right looks like towbar electrics from the colours. My towbar electrics ran all the way up into the body to the light unit behind where the jack is mounted in...

The upper rear lights on the body only house the foglight on the right and the reversing light on the left as standard on UK supplied vehicles. The tail/stop/indicators are in the light units mounted in the bumper. Some people modify the upper lights by fitting new lamp holders and bulbs, many...

Couldn't find the thread about a switch, the rear foglight could need a switch if there isn't one already installed that can be used (needs an indicator lamp on the dash as well to alert the driver that it is on). Emmisions can be a problem on any vehicle, let's just say that some MOT testers...

I helped a friend get an MOT on her Corvette she brought over from Texas a few years ago. I changed the indicators as they must be amber front and rear (no red and no flashing brake lights allowed), I swapped the headlights for ones that dip to the left on low beam and added a rear fog light...

It's not a major job. An OEM (Toyota) seal is under £20 in the UK and readily available. I'm not an expert and haven't done the job myself (hope somebody else will coma along) but I think it involves undoing the four propshaft bolts, removing the big pinion nut and pulling the seal out...

Looks like the pinion oil seal is leaking. It's not normal and will need fixing.

I have made four or five purchases from Amayama over the last ten years. The goods arrived in about three weeks each time as promised whether from UAE or Japan. On one order of nearly £200 the stuff was retained by Royal Mail until I paid the import duty (about 15% I think) which was annoying...

By the way. I think you might belong in the 120 section rather than the 100, if you've got a model specific question it's best to be in the right place. I'm only a lowly 90 series owner so I may be wrong about the posher stuff though.

The condenser sits in front of the main cooling radiator (and pretty much looks the same too). It's in the line of fire so often gets damaged by flying debris or just rots away after 15 years from road salt etc. It's a really simple and common repair in most cases.

As an example my mobile guy replaced my receiver/dryer and did a service for £20 for the part and £50 for the service/fitting. Fitting a condenser is no more difficult once all the stuff around it is out of the way. If you need a mobile a/c engineer in Hampshire try Pete Sinclair of Cool Runners...

Autodoc list a Nissens (often an OEM fit on Toyota) condenser for £102 including VAT to fit an LC120D4D. If you did a lot of the dismantling a mobile A/C guy would probably charge about £100 to do the final bolting on and refilling. If you took it to Toyota it would be £1200 or more. I'm not...

This is for a 4-Runner but it's basically the same for a Colorado

I'm currently lookiong at this job. The part number for the pipes is 87248-35030 (mine is petrol but I think diesel is the same although the hoses in the engine bay differ). Toyota GB don't have any and can't get them and they were £186.37 when they last stocked them. Amayama and Partsouq list...

It will be our ten year anniversary in a couple of weeks, I bought her as a stop gap vehicle while I was waiting for a new car delivery but liked her so much I cancelled the new car and kept Amy. Considering taking her out for twenty gallons of E5 to celebrate if I can afford it.

Hi and welcome to the forum. Can't help on the fuel gauge but there is some useful bulb info from Jureb in this thread https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/hazard-lights-switch-bulb.159354/ Have a search as the bulb issue comes up quite often.

Good job. Having spent the week under my 90 doing similar things I can appreciate the work that you've put in.

The sills, chassis and axle turrets rotted from the inside out on mine so my advice would be to spend as much effort getting stuff inside these bits as coating the outside. Removing any lumps of rust and mud in there is a good idea. There are numerous drain holes in the sills, doors, shock...

I think the power for the P light comes from the inhibitor switch (sometimes called the park/neutral switch) so I would have a look at that

I'd put the extra lip through the chassis. While you're in the area it's worth clearing out the tiny drain holes in the top mount bowl on the chassis and clearing any accumulated dirt sitting up there; it's been known for the mounting area to rust through. The red line is where I think the...

You've had a Land Cruiser for 26 years and only just joined! Must have been a trouble free journey. Anyway, welcome.