100 series CV Axle/Worn Flange Question

[Beau]

Since purchasing a high millage 100 series, I'm trying to get it to a nice healthy spec.

I have the typical R to D clunk and upon further notice, I have notiable rottational play in the CV's where they enter the flange. I won't be able to see if it's the CV or flange that is worn but my guess is both, leaning more towards a original 240k miles flange. Both CV's have this play, with one side being a 2 year old CV. However this looked like some cheap replacement when I looked at the receipt.

Ideally I'd like to replace both CV's with a good reputable brand. Yes I know OEM is probably best, BUT they cost a fair bit. I'm not going to do any mad off roading. Any suggestions on what's a good quality CV out there? I'd probably purchase new OEM drive flanges as they're aroung $50 a piece.

Also, how long do you think they'd last in this condition. If they have there final moment and destroy themselves on the road, I can lock the centre diff and drive in RWD. Is there any consequences to this over say 2000 miles?

 

[uHu]

I see you are on mud as well and getting some good input. There are some big threads on the issue on mud. Afaik, the flange wears before the shaft. You can see it when you take the flange off and clean well - take a close-up macro pic of the shaft and flange if it's difficult to see.
Two of the factors that contribute to longevity are, a) using the thickest snap ring you can get on to avoid slack and movement (whenever you open up for repacking or tightening bearings), and b) keeping the spindle bearing well lubed. Mine are now at 308 k km and have no noticeable slack, (not that that can be used as evidence for anything).

If the splines wear out completely, you will still have "crunching and milling" going on in the splines if you just engage CDL, but it could help to remove the prop shaft.

I wouldn't even think of using anything else than OEM for drive shafts, it's a critical part.

 

[Beau]

Thanks and yes the mud forum is pretty helpful for 100 series stuff. @uHu With replacing the CV Shaft and drive flange, would I expect the gap to be original for the snap ring? I had planned on re-using whatever is on there. If not, I guess I should order some and be prepared.

 

[uHu]

You should expect having to use a thicker snap ring (C-clip), but you won't know until you've pulled the shaft in place (often you need a 8mm bolt in the centre hole and some kind of leverage) and measured with a feeler gauge. Anyhow, the used C-clip will be weaker than a new one - there's a reason for the FSM stating to use a new one. For doing bearing/hub/CV-service, you need a stock of C-clips in 2.4, 2.6 and 2.8 mm, and washers for the hub nuts. Also the inner hub seal is best to change whenever you've had the hub off the spindle. All these small parts are to be regarded as cheap insurance.

As an example, here is my stock for annual hub service:
90521-34003 Front diff lock spring 2
43422-60070 Front hub Gasket, hub flange 5
43521-60011 Front hub Hub nut, (front wheel bearing adjusting nut) 4
90116-10201 Front hub bolt, stud, hub-flange 6
90170-10039 Front hub nut, hub-flange-stud 6
42323-60030 Front hub cone, for hub flange stud 6
90214-42030 Front hub Washer 4
90215-42025 Front hub lock washer 6
90311-70011 Front hub Seal, Type T, Oil 3
90520-31008 Front hub C-clip, snap ring 2.2 mm, hub, axle shaft 2
90520-31007 Front hub C-clip, snap ring D, 2.4 mm, hub, axle shaft 2
90520-31006 Front hub C-clip, snap ring C, 2.6 mm, hub, axle shaft 1
90520-31005 Front hub C-clip, snap ring B, 2.8 mm, hub, axle shaft 1
43423-35010 Front hub hub cap 1
90364-33011 Front hub Spindle bearing 1