Hi. I hope there is someone out there who maybe able to help me. I have a 2004 LC5 D4D Auto. which Ive owned from new. It has covered nearly 200,000 miles and has never missed a Toyota service. Until 2 years ago the LC was faultless and then one day close to home it cut out. I'd stopped and put the vehicle into neutral when it stalled, it would turn over but not re-start. A local garage recovered the LC and over a period of several weeks completed diagnostic checks with no faults found, they also removed the ECU and sent it away for investigation, no faults were reported. Both fuel and electrical systems were checked out and once again no faults were found. The garage found that by disconnecting both batteries for about an hour then re-connecting the engine would run perfectly. This was the case for two years however on the anniversary of the first fault the fault reoccurred. Again with the engine running and the vehicle stopped I put the LC into neutral and it cut out. Recovered to the same garage they re did their checks and again no diagnostic, fuel or electrical faults were found. Batteries disconnection / reconnection had the LC running again. This time 5 weeks later the same problem and same circumstances. Batteries disconnected / reconnected and its running again. Brainstorming the problem and the only common denominators seem to be ticking over and putting into neutral, a reasonably long trip the day before with some use of Cruise Control before the fault occurs. The garage are keen to change the ECU but Im not sure this is where the fault lies. I am at my wits end with this unreliability, its been a brilliant and much cherished vehicle and never abused. Is there anyone who has had a similar fault or can shed any light on this problem, I'd be so grateful.
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2004 LC5 Cutting out - help please
- Thread starter Roger H
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Bhutan
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Sorry I can't help Roger, I hope someone comes along here and can shed some light on the problem for you, and with an easy fix. Have you tried searching this site, and the other worldwide Toyota/4x4/120 forums? You never know, the answer may be already out in cyberspace somewhere.
Good luck, I'll be watching with interest just in case...
Good luck, I'll be watching with interest just in case...
suzannah atkin
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Hi Roger,
I know you wrote this in 2017 but we have been having EXACTLY the same problem as you, with our 2006 Landcruiser.
The problem started about 18 months ago.
The car would not start, but turned over.
After several trips to the garage, no fault was found on the diognastics. This intermittent fault continued - the car would be ok for months and then it started playing up again.
Eventually we took it back to the garage and they kept it for a week. The car drove perfectly.
The problem was that the only way we could start the car was by disconnecting the batteries (as you said), only we connected them immediately after disconnection, and it did the trick. So by the time we drove to our garage, there was nothing recorded as the disconnection had removed any fault messages.
Eventually, our garage suggested we went to Toyota and got a diagnostic test done. The test said it was the fuel injectors. So, happy to have a fault finally, but disappointed with the cost, we had it done.
And, sure enough, the day after getting it back, it did it again! This time on our drive; but our garage were too busy to come out. So once again, we had to disconnect the batteries.
The fault seemed to go away after that, and a cost of over £2,000. We foolishly thought it had gone for good.
However, the last few weeks the problem has arised again. The engine turns over but wont start. I can hear it trying to start, but then it makes a funny noise and I stop. It matters not how many times I do this, once it has stopped, that is it.
I rang another mechanic and he said to log when it happens.
I have done this all week, and, like Roger, the car seems to do this when it is ticking over, ie, at a traffic light, or coming off a roundabout.
Sometimes it wont start initially, which is ok as at least I am on safe ground.
However, stalling off a roundabout or traffic lights is not fun and dangerous.
I have tried everything. Did you find out what happened in the end? I really would appreciate any help I can get.
I know you wrote this in 2017 but we have been having EXACTLY the same problem as you, with our 2006 Landcruiser.
The problem started about 18 months ago.
The car would not start, but turned over.
After several trips to the garage, no fault was found on the diognastics. This intermittent fault continued - the car would be ok for months and then it started playing up again.
Eventually we took it back to the garage and they kept it for a week. The car drove perfectly.
The problem was that the only way we could start the car was by disconnecting the batteries (as you said), only we connected them immediately after disconnection, and it did the trick. So by the time we drove to our garage, there was nothing recorded as the disconnection had removed any fault messages.
Eventually, our garage suggested we went to Toyota and got a diagnostic test done. The test said it was the fuel injectors. So, happy to have a fault finally, but disappointed with the cost, we had it done.
And, sure enough, the day after getting it back, it did it again! This time on our drive; but our garage were too busy to come out. So once again, we had to disconnect the batteries.
The fault seemed to go away after that, and a cost of over £2,000. We foolishly thought it had gone for good.
However, the last few weeks the problem has arised again. The engine turns over but wont start. I can hear it trying to start, but then it makes a funny noise and I stop. It matters not how many times I do this, once it has stopped, that is it.
I rang another mechanic and he said to log when it happens.
I have done this all week, and, like Roger, the car seems to do this when it is ticking over, ie, at a traffic light, or coming off a roundabout.
Sometimes it wont start initially, which is ok as at least I am on safe ground.
However, stalling off a roundabout or traffic lights is not fun and dangerous.
I have tried everything. Did you find out what happened in the end? I really would appreciate any help I can get.
D
Deleted member 13129
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Hi your problem sounds very much like the SCV (suction control valve) problem , genuine toyota SCV can be had from roughtrax for £182.40 probably cost more than double that if you buy from Toyota dealers and can be fitted by any decent mechanic or diy in less than a hour , cleanliness during removing old SCV and fitting the new SCV are the utmost inportance , I would defiantly go down that route before changing or messing with the ECU , another possible cause could be fungle gunge blocking the pickup pipe/fuelpump in the fuel tank or pipes to the fuel filter , But I would change the SCV as its more likely the problem . a revised SCV was made for the 120 and 150 models ,(its longer bodied than the original if you match them up) because of the problems with the SCV .
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suzannah atkin
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Hi, Thank you so much for this. I will go down this route immediately. Hopefully it will do the trick.
D
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Hope it solves the problem , whoever does the job tell them to be meticulously clean throughout by cleaning the injection pump first with compress air and making sure nothing (muck or bits or dust or anything else ) during dismantlement and installing the SCV to the injection pump .
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suzannah atkin
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Hi, we have had our Land Cruiser done on Friday. We had so many intermittent problems, sometimes we could go for weeks or even months with no problems, but recently the car was cutting out every time we started it. It was dangerous and time consuming disconnecting the batteries all the time.
We went to Rough Trax as suggested and paid for the SCV which cost the amount quoted above.
So far, and I say so far, the car has been fine. I will update all of you next week to see if this is the problem solved.
The time for the repairs took 2 hours, so you will not be without your car for long.
The overall price came to about £300 .
So thank you to everyone for advising me. So far, so good.
We went to Rough Trax as suggested and paid for the SCV which cost the amount quoted above.
So far, and I say so far, the car has been fine. I will update all of you next week to see if this is the problem solved.
The time for the repairs took 2 hours, so you will not be without your car for long.
The overall price came to about £300 .
So thank you to everyone for advising me. So far, so good.
suzannah atkin
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Hi Roger,
We took your advice and got a SCV from Roughtrax at the price you quoted. It took a couple of hours. Our car is now ok. We had it done a month ago and it has not played up once. So a huge thank you.
We took your advice and got a SCV from Roughtrax at the price you quoted. It took a couple of hours. Our car is now ok. We had it done a month ago and it has not played up once. So a huge thank you.
D
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Hi Suzannah
Glad every thing is ok with your 120 , and now running like a 120 should be .
Glad every thing is ok with your 120 , and now running like a 120 should be .
Puppywalker
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Hi I had this problem for a couple of years, it failed me as backed on to the drive. Bought ths SCV from P F James deisel specialist £82 delivered changed it the motor started and all is well
Tony
Tony
suzannah atkin
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Thank you. Very much appreciated.
D
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Your welcome
Hi, I am curious to know, is it still running OK up till now. Because my LC5 2006 started same problem, and I think it needs SCV change. Any advice will be much appreciated.
I am really grateful for your reply. What's your experience, did changing SCV made difference in your vehicle. Because my vehicle showing same symptoms which you explained above. If yours worked fine after SCV change then I guess it will work in my case too. If you could kindly tell that whether problem with your vehicle did not arise after change of SCV then I will go for its change as well. Thanks.
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Does your vehicle have the short SCV or the long one?
If it's the long one, it's probably not the SCV as they hardly ever fail.
If it's the short one, that is likely to be the problem. But nobody can give you a guarantee, so...
If you have access to Techstream (or Denso Intelligent Tester) you can have a look at the fuel pressure and see how it compares to the target pressure and see if it's stable or jumping around.
I assume youve already done visual inspection for fuel leaks etc and that your fuel filter isn't 500 years old etc
I didn't have the problem on mine, I replaced the short SVC with the long one before it failed.
If it's the long one, it's probably not the SCV as they hardly ever fail.
If it's the short one, that is likely to be the problem. But nobody can give you a guarantee, so...
If you have access to Techstream (or Denso Intelligent Tester) you can have a look at the fuel pressure and see how it compares to the target pressure and see if it's stable or jumping around.
I assume youve already done visual inspection for fuel leaks etc and that your fuel filter isn't 500 years old etc
I didn't have the problem on mine, I replaced the short SVC with the long one before it failed.
