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£26 later..

Karlosfandango

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Sep 21, 2017
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Other than thinking I'd be a smart ass and get a slightly more powerful strut than recommended, it works. Saw the Aussie kit but couldn't stomach the cost so started digging and took a chance. After measuring about 73 times I ordered the following from SGS-Engineering.com

GS8-18-250-300 Fixed Force Gas Strut
2 x
10mm Ball Stud M8 Male Thread To Fit M6 Thread

I decided that 320N would be the way to go. It's just a bit too powerful, the other video on Youtube shows a 300N strut which I think is probably more suitable, maybe even 280N. The trouble is once it starts opening you have to slow it otherwise it really bangs at full opening which will damage the bottom door skin. For that reason I've added about a 40mm washer to where the strut attaches to the bottom of the door..

IMG_0111.JPG


The Aussie kit comes with a plate that sits under the bottom of the door which I assume spreads the load when the door swings open. I'll see how this goes and if necessary knock something up, but as long as you don't just let it swing open at full force you'll be fine.

IMG_0112.JPG


The door will easily hold open, and using the strut listed above opens almost exactly the same distance as the standard bracket.
 
Good work.

I couldn't get a definitive total cost for the ones from Oz so didn't pursue it any further.
 
That's smart!

I'm tempted, but sometimes need to be able to open the rear door slightly...( Boot access when towing or to fasten lead on dog)
 
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Karlosfandango are you holding the door at the end of its travel to stop it slamming open in you video clip or is the motion done without any assitance.
 
Excellent!!

From the video, it looks to me that at the extreme, the strut is damping before it hits the limit.

The new structs I got for my 80 bonnet (credits to @Chas with thanks) work the same way, it starts slow, whizzes th bonnet up, then just at the right moment slows it to a stop.
 
Not knocking your gas strut install, just wondering what was wrong with the original stay? My 120 allowed me to lock it open and was pretty Sturdy for any times if the wind caught it etc. So what made your mind up to change to this set up?

Regards
Joe
 
Good install, but with tight parking or a trailer hooked up it wouldn't work too well with me.
 
The original stay was OK but I found it would never hold half way as the rubbers were worn. It was the same at full open, I generally forgot to lock it so would invariably have it crush me when ever the wind blew.

The strut is just a normal one so you need to slow it before reaching the end of the swing. Didn't know that you could get them that dampen at the end of the motion so that is worth looking out for. The Strut is 8mm shaft, 18mm diameter body, extended length is 550mm and stroke 250mm. The total length with the ends is 590mm.
 
I'll have to see how it goes. I did wonder if having a trailer on will be an issue but i'm thinking the number plate will probably allow it to rest against the jockey wheel handle, at least with the positive pressure it won't keep closing on me as it did with the old stay. Tight parking could definitely be an issue though.
 
I 'think' that strut is exactly the same as the one I got but comes with 700N of force. You can then bleed it to the point that it suits your need. If anyone knows what the struts are called that have damping at the end of the stroke it would be really useful.
 
I appreciate the car end of the strut goes at the existing fixing position but did it come with dimensions for where to fit at the door end of the strut?
 
There are three M8 fixings that hold the factory bracket in place. Just remove the whole thing and then use the existing hole that's furthest from the hinge.
 
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