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3.0 td definitive answer required

dave smith

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Jul 7, 2011
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64
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england
Somebody out there must have had the same issue

'97 3.0td power loss as if fuel starvation and throwing error code 14 (crank position sensor)

I changed said sensor £90 Toyota genuine part.
Changed the fuel pick up pipe (looking crusty and snapped taking tank off) £30 gen Toyota part.
New fuel filter from Euro car parts (Crosland)

Still no joy

The fault as I see it must be either,

1 fuel filter not sealing properly (have removed and refitted it already) might change it for another one.
2 A bad fuel line from the tank to the filter housing.
3 the filter housing itself pulling air.
4 fuel line from filter housing to injector pump replacement
5 the pump itself
6 the ecu

I am at a loss I can't just keep changing things, I don't have the time or money. Somebody must have had similar issues and fixed them.

Regards Dave

PS got the engine back in the Hilux and is sweet as a nut!
 
Based on a friends Ford Ranger that kept losing power/throwing a similar code - even down to crank sensor, have you checked the wiring loom for a break/damage due to age and going brittle and the flex that a 4 cylinder does due to the way it fires and rocks.
 
Thanks for that Shayne little filters like that could well be cacked up after 18 years, its got to be worth a look!
 
You can get that list down to 5 and 6 dave. Put a fuel can under the bonnet straight to the pump ;)

i may have a fuel pump here if you need one. Ecu I won't but may be able to find one from a mate
 
Could also be the breather in fuel tank cap - if that isn't letting air in ... no fuel is going to flow out.

Also do these have a filter inside the fuel tank like the 80s do?
 
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Been thinking , crank sensor is a red herring but could be a clue , have a look at my "broken collie" thread . Cost nothing and would take 2 minutes to pull those same sensors and give them a wash . I use meths to clean as it evaporates almost instantly but a blast of WD-40 might do just as well . Also is your EGR still active if so maybe your throttle butterfly is sticking ?
 
there are fine gauss filters inside the pump that may need cleaning. I would connect the pump direct to a diesel can and run it like that to rule out any air in the fuel system from the tank to the pump, have you checked the spill valve?
 
If I re-write this on my laptop instead of on my phone or tablet when I'm just in that getting up rush, I might stand more chance...

Based on a friends Ford Ranger that kept losing power/throwing a similar code - even down to crank sensor, have you checked the wiring loom for a break/damage due to age and going brittle and the flex that a 4 cylinder does due to the way it fires and rocks.

So, we have a friend with a Ford Ranger PK with the 3.0 TDCi in it; she's owned it for about 6 months or so, and has had quite a few problems with it throwing up the check engine light and then going into limp mode after stalling.

What relevance has this to Dave's Collie? Well... when the codes were read, it was showing as the crank position sensor. Tried a "new" sensor from another Ranger, and that didn't solve the problem, so the suspicion was that the wiring loom was the route of the problem, ie the signal wasn't getting through properly as there was a break in the loom; in the same way that Shane says that it's the red herring, but also the clue I think it's the same.

Why did the loom break? Well, the way that a 4 cylinder runs and fires, there is a fair bit of engine movement and the loom flexes and snaps over time (I've had it do that to me on the tailgate on my old Volvo V70, locking me out of the boot...) so I wonder if something similar is what has happened to the Collie...

Or... I could be completely wrong...
 
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I had the same 14 code error when I suffered fuel blockages. Before getting into the pump, I'll do as suggested above feed the engine diesel from a bottle in the engine bay and see if there's any difference. I'll then remove the return lines and blow down there and try that. If that fails, clean out the internals of the pump. Worse case scenario the fuel solenoid isn't working as it should and needs to be replaced. It can overheat and damage itself if not enough fuel is being pulled through. Ask me how I knew haha
 
I have checked the fuel system from front to back today but no joy blew the lines out with a compressor, disconnected the breather, changed the filter again but still the same. I tested the gearbox speed sensor to see if that was at fault but the resistance is ok. I also took out the ecu and had a look inside it to see if there was anything obviously amiss but all looks ok no burnt bits or anything. I put everything back together. Had a brew and removed the side steps and hey presto all seems to be ok up to now! If it stays ok I will be a happy bunny but I'm not holding my breath. I don't think for one second that the steps are at fault.
I might get the ecu tested though just for peace of mind but would an intermittent fault show up? or is the gearbox buggered (it has a new rad fitted not by me) and we all know what happens if water gets in the auto box oil, although the oil level is correct and the oil is red not milky or brown.

Any further suggestions greatfuly received.
 
I'd check for corroded connectors or damaged wiring in the engine loom, particularly where it grounds and where it connects to the ECU. Bad wiring can appear to be sensor problems.
 
Well out in the motor got home to a nasty smell of oil,looked under motor and oil all over not good,Looks like it's from the front prop where it goes into transfer box,not a good time with the finger as won't be able to do it my self,so now looking for both front prop seals and rear ones,may as well get them all fitted,yet another set back on my suspension,every time I'm ok to get them something else goes,
 
is it feasible or likly for the woodruff key in the injector pump pulley to snap throowing the pump timing out of kilter under load?
 
is it feasible or likly for the woodruff key in the injector pump pulley to snap throowing the pump timing out of kilter under load?

It is possible, it happened to me. The woodruff key didn't totally snap, it partially sheared but was enough to totally upset the timing. Couldn't have happened at a worse time I was heading for the Dover ferry on my way to France for a tour of the WW1 battle fields, but got recovered to Julian V who fixed it instantly and I was on the ferry the next day.
 
Oh I see worth a look then. I didn't want to pull it all to bits for nowt and an ideal time to change the timing belt. Who sells woodruff keys then?
 
It has been suggested that the EGR could be cacked up. Anyone agree I will block it off and give it a go but I am losing faith in it and am looking for yet another Hilux to add to the collection they are easier to fix when they go wrong. I love my Collie but it's not looking promising as a keeper
 
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