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80 Series Rebuild

OEM shells run from 1.486 to 1.501 mm in 0.003mm increments (0.0585 to 0.0591” in 0.0001” increments so the difference between the thinnest and thickest shell is less tha 0.001” which I think you’ll agree is a very small nat’s chuff. I just can’t see it being a problem (and it obviously isn’t) using the ‘one size fits all’ shells.
 
0.0001? Blimey the best I can hope for on my lathe is 0.005 and that's on a good day with a following breeze. Like I said, Mr T being a bit anal.
 
I can't answer that but here's a thought. If Mr T is so precise, how did he grind a crank where the journals were so different that they needed custom fit shells?

Because Toyota want people to believe you need to buy from them Chris ;)

You can buy cheap engine bearings for the 80s. My guys won't stock them though or even sell them me.
 
Isn't that just to measure end float Gary. Ie the shims that pack the crank rather than the big end shells?

Edit - sorry yes I get you now.
 
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So why is there a variation in the 80s crankshaft journal sizing?
Tooling in the manufacturing process maybe?
 
All manufacturers are like that. I could order a few shell sizes for an engine, standard then 2 grind stages is normal. Each size has a tolerance.

All crankshafts are equal but some are more equal than others lol.
 
have to say I used acl and just lobbed them in. Perhaps ACL have a thicker surface and bed in with the grinding paste. So far 60k miles but maybe at the next oil change I'll pull one and inspect it..
 
Okay, it seems most just stick with the ACL’s.
Where can I buy them in Europe?
And If would stick with OEM shells, STD is mark 4, so should get away with that, but IF i would like to order the correct marked ones, anyone noticed the markings on the crankshaft and rods as stated in the manual?
If you remove the sump, are they all visual to write them down without removing the rod caps?

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The sizes are stamped on the backside of the shells. Never seen a mark on the crank I have to say. But then I haven't looked. I'd really not make this more complicated than it needs to be. I genuinely don't think you'll ever notice a benefit. In fact the crank journals may have some wear so the original shell sizes may not even be relevant anymore.
 
Niels I got my ACL via Karl Webster on here. He has posted somewhere above
 
A known issue shouldn't be forgot once a part has been changed regardless what it is.

The bolts on the ns knuckle for example.wheel bearings and the list goes on.
 
A known issue shouldn't be forgot once a part has been changed regardless what it is.

The bolts on the ns knuckle for example.wheel bearings and the list goes on.

+1. Especially in the case of the BEB’s as there’s been no real fix for the problem because there’s been no definitive answer as to what causes it. Wrong bearing material, a bad batch of bearing shells, wrong oil etc, just educated guesses really or does someone know different?
 
i do keep meaning to drop the sump and out of interest see what condition my replacement bearings are in after 120000 plus miles.
 
i guess anyone changing oem shells rarely conditions the crankshaft as well so any scouring there will transfer to the new shells. Are the 24v cranks the exact same material as the 12v iwonder or have they done something there as well.
 
.. who was moving back to Ireland on March the 16th! He said he’s bringing home two containers full of all his stuff too and said there’s no problem if I wanted to source a few parts out there that he could throw in with all his stuff....


Nice. Nice. If you know of anyone else oving back let me know and happy to help on container costs for some 80s goodies outa Aussie. Those tyres are very nice as well
 
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