ACSD removal from 1HD-FT

Brett Aug 10, 2018

  1. Brett

    Brett Well-Known Member I am in uk

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    Gents,

    As part of my de-complexing exercise on the engine - I'd like to remove the ACSD. I'm pretty sure it is faulty as during our cold snap during the winter, the trucks idle speed has stuck at 900 rpm.

    Could anyone who has removed this please advise what they did with the Aircon Idle-up mechanism, can this be left in-situ or refitted after removing the ACSD?

    Thanks,
    Brett
     
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  2. chapel gate

    chapel gate Well-Known Member Supporter Promoted Company I am in england

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    Iirc i left mine in situ when i replaced my ACSD with a new one.
     
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  3. Towpack

    Towpack Well-Known Member I am in england

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    I removed mine and kept the AC and PS idle up mechanisms. Can’t honestly recall if I had to remove those to get at the ACSD but, if I did, they must’ve bolted straight back on again after fitting the ACSD blanking plate.
     
  4. Firewout

    Firewout Well-Known Member I am in belgium

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    image.jpg Removed mine afaik. Just put a blanking plate and removed the rest.
     
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  5. iwan_t24

    iwan_t24 Well-Known Member I am in wales

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    The air con bracket is separate to the acsd but they share one bolt so it's an easy task to leave the air con part in situ.

    One thing is to be very carefull to use the correct length bolts when fitting the acsd plate as a too shorter bolt could strip the threads or a too long thread would go through too far and lock on the moving internal parts of the injection pump. Thats what I found out when I had a go at mine!
     
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  6. Brett

    Brett Well-Known Member I am in uk

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    Thanks for the replies guys.

    I had a little go at it yesterday and im currently struggling to release the bolts on the a/c idle up bracket. The left hander is starting to strip the hex. This is using plusgas.I'm going to soak them for a few days before trying again.

    On a positive note, I've proved it was the ACSD causing the increase in idle speed. Ive removed the linkage for the idle up & ACSD, & after adjusting the throttle cable so its sitting on the stop its now idling at bang on 600 rpm.
     
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  7. hopeless wanderer

    hopeless wanderer Well-Known Member I am in england

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    Hi Brett, Hope you've managed to get it sorted.
    I just wanted to ask by "left hander" did you mean a left handed thread ? I've just ordered the bits for this and I would be the fool turning the bolt the wrong way.
     
  8. Brett

    Brett Well-Known Member I am in uk

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    Hi yes, I have sorted it now, more or less. The ACSD is now removed but I've just tywrapped it out of the way as I'm struggling to get hold of any 3/8" coolant hose locally, to loop the coolant ports on the block. I used to work near a hydraulics supplier where I bought all my hoses, but I've recently changed jobs & location, & I'm stuck with crappy euro-parts suppliers.

    The left hander I was referring to isn't left hand thread, just the left hand side bolt holding the aircon idle up assembly in place. They are all right handed thread, just be careful, they are F***ing tight and the internal hex is soft, very easy to strip out. I had to resort to a set of Irwin rounded bolt sockets to remove about 3 of the screws.

    My tips for the job:-

    1. Remove the plastic covers attached to the inner wing & the wheel to give you the best access.
    2. Soak all the screws with penetrating oil.
    3. Use a good quality 5mm allen key.
    4. Try to remove the idle up assembly first (if you have it). This & the ACSD share a long bolt that goes through both.
    5. Slacken off the adjusters on the ACSD levers, this gives a bit of movement of the linkages to access the remaining 2 off ACSD bolts.
    6. If you can't get to the bolts, remove the levers and springs from the ACSD, this gives the best access.
    7. Have a set of rounded bolt removers ready!
    8. Have a oil pan or similar to catch the diesel when you do finally get the ACSD off, you'll lose about a cup full & it comes out quick, more or less in one go!

    Good luck with it, mine is now idling perfectly & is much, much quieter.
     
  9. hopeless wanderer

    hopeless wanderer Well-Known Member I am in england

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    Thanks a lot, just ordered a set of rounded bolt removers in preparation.
     
  10. frank rabbets

    frank rabbets Well-Known Member

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    Tap the heads of the allen screws with a round flat punch and hammer. The shock often releases the threads slightly. Also tap the allen key in so it goes in all the way. The longer that part of the key in the socket is the better as then there is less liability of the key going over at an angle and stretching the socket inside.
     
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  11. hopeless wanderer

    hopeless wanderer Well-Known Member I am in england

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    Cheers Frank, I've only got the ball ended allen keys so ill invest in a set of flat end ones as a precaution.
    Only ever had one stud I couldn't undo on the exhaust manifold / EGR and it drove me insane.
    The blank is on there now with just one nut till I can get round to drilling the stump out.
     
  12. frank rabbets

    frank rabbets Well-Known Member

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    The length of the tool is very important. A stub screw driver is very difficult to use compared with a standard length one. I have made a 3 ft long screw driver for special jobs where I'm using high tensile wood screws with a very tight fit. I can get some serious controlled torque this way.
     
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  13. iwan_t24

    iwan_t24 Well-Known Member I am in wales

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    If you have a rounded small allen bolt you can hammer in an appropriate torx drive in and it cuts its grip.
     
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  14. hopeless wanderer

    hopeless wanderer Well-Known Member I am in england

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    I did the drive shafts on a VW camper years ago and resorted to buying a dozen cheap Chinese spanner that were too small and banged them on with a hammer to do the same thing. 1 spanner = 1 bolt it was a nightmare.
     
  15. frank rabbets

    frank rabbets Well-Known Member

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    Were they bamboo sizes ?
     
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  16. hopeless wanderer

    hopeless wanderer Well-Known Member I am in england

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    :tearsofjoy:
     
  17. toolsplus

    toolsplus Well-Known Member I am in portugal

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    what does ASCD stand for?

    cheers
     
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  18. hopeless wanderer

    hopeless wanderer Well-Known Member I am in england

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    Automatic cold start device ... I assumed, but don't quote me.
     
  19. Brett

    Brett Well-Known Member I am in uk

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    A load of bloody grief, that's what it stands for!

    Finally got mine finished today, removing the old coolant hoses and refitting the loop is great fun! It wouldn't be a bad job but there is no room or clearance to work.

    Once you've moved the existing hose clips out of the way (very awkward) I'd recommend slitting the hoses with a stanley blade or similar, this is the easiest way to remove them.

    Then you have the challenge of refitting the new hose and tightening the hose clamps. My arms look like I'm self harming!
     
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  20. Towpack

    Towpack Well-Known Member I am in england

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    I just connected the existing rubber hose stubs with a U bend made from Ali tube. This was partly due to the fact that I intended to refit the ACSD after repairing it with new seals but decided to leave it off.
     
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