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Adjusting 80 series steering box

frank rabbets

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My 80 now drives on rails as I've adjusted the steering box The fwm isn't any good so here's how to do it.

1. Best after front axle rebuild but the below applies if you just want to adjust.
2. Slacken adjusting nut.
3. Hold adjuster screw with screwdriver and remove the nut.
4. Put car on front axle stands so both wheels off the ground.
5. Centre steering wheel.
6. Screw adjuster screw in hard and completely till it stops.
7. Turn same screw back so it just becomes loose the back carefully until you feel it tighten again. Usually 180 degrees.
8. Turn steering back and forth once to each full lock using road wheels, not steering wheel.
9. Check screw is still loose to turn clock wise and turn until resistance is just felt. Put nut on and tighten without moving the adjuster. If screw is tight clockwise go to 7 above and repeat.

The adjuster pushes the steering box spindle in and out of the box. There is 180 degrees play before it pushes or pulls the spindle. The spindle is a bit like a shuttle cock having tapered teeth on it. Screwing it into the box takes up any wear. Wear may be uneven so when you move the steering back and forth any high spots push the spindle back up into it's tightest practical position. That's why you have to loosen the screw otherwise the screw will not allow the spindle move back out.


Check by taking the car for a run and make sure the steering wheel returns properly when straightening up after a turn. If no return the adjuster has been overtightened and/or there is a high spot not adjusted for.

Frank
 
Last edited:
That sounds worth a go Frank! Mind, my steering box has been recently rebuilt twice, but I'll have a chat with my mechanic to see how he set it up after the new main shaft was replaced.

cheers! :icon-biggrin:
 
I have adjusted my HDJ80 steering box, steering wheel was loose a lot(about 10cm to both sides), I have tightened the adjusting screw a bit, now the steering wheel has about 5cm of free run. Can i tight it more, to have a zero loose
 
Yes you can probably. Forget measuring the steering wheel as this does not allow for high spots. If you follow the procedures 2-7 above you will get your steering to as good as possible.

Frank
 
Thank you Frank, followed your guide last week and had a test run on Sunday. Different car for such an easy fix.
 
I forgot to ask you yesterday frank.

I have done this to the black one. I don't know if I've tightened it too much. When driving and you slightly turn the steering in a straight line the car goes to the left or right but doesn't straighten back up.

If the play in the box is bad.Would the above fix not work? :think:
 
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Hi Karl

To check if you have over tightened it:-

1. Support axle on stands.
2. Hold slotted screw firmly.
3. Undo nut 1 turn.
4. Carefully turn the screw anticlockwise until you feel resistance. Usually about 1/2 turn.
5. Lock the nut.
6. Using the road wheels turn the steering from full lock both ways.
7. Hold slotted screw firmly.
8. Undo nut 1 turn.
9. Turn screw carefully 1/2 turn one way then the other. If it is free straight away anticlockwise the original setting was over tightened.

If so it is best to start again at the beginning of the sticky. It's easy to forget exactly what the stearing return felt like before.

If the play in the box is really bad the fix may not work. The trouble is that box wears unevenly so can be loose straight ahead but tight when on a turn. If the box is unevenly worn there is no fix.

Frank
 
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Hi 'kor

Glad you have a smile on your face. My 80 would suddenly veer to one side with no warning and without the steering wheel moving. The wear creeps up on you. I can now drive it and look at the gauges etc without fear of looking up and having to do an emergency correction. BTW I've also done the front wheel bearing adjustment which has made a slight improvement. The workshop manual is good on this. I drove for 8 miles afterwards without touching the brake pedal and got out to feel the front hubs. If the bearing is too tight it heats up so best to check. My friend had a rear wheel bearing on his Renault explode on the motorway after the garage had adjusted it so they got it wrong and then also did not do a test drive. I've never forgotten this as there was no warning noises first just instant loss of control.

Frank
 
Can this be done on the 90 series?
 
Not unless you fit a steering box.
 
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Seriously though, I've had several R&P cars that do have a "similar" type of adjustable loading on the rack just opposite the pinion, which has the same sort of effect. I don't know if this applies to the 90 Series or not. :think:
 
You can adjust the preload on a steering rack but you never really need to as there are less joints in a steering rack so less play felt at the wheel
 
I had followed this advice before and it made a difference, I have also followed this advice with the steering box bench mounted - if you get the chance this is the way to go - you can really "feel" the high and low spots.

Karl Webster - your other handling issues - could they be lost caster due to lift?
 
Thanks Rodger.

Now you mention Castor. I have put castor plates on. I'm now thinking could I have gone too much??k
 
My 80 now drives on rails as I've adjusted the steering box The fwm isn't any good so here's how to do it.

1. Best after front axle rebuild but the below applies if you just want to adjust.
2. Slacken adjusting nut.
3. Hold adjuster screw with screwdriver and remove the nut.
4. Put car on front axle stands so both wheels off the ground.
5. Centre steering wheel.
6. Screw adjuster screw in hard and completely till it stops.
7. Turn same screw back so it just becomes loose the back carefully until you feel it tighten again. Usually 180 degrees.
8. Turn steering back and forth once to each full lock using road wheels, not steering wheel.
9. Check screw is still loose to turn clock wise and turn until resistance is just felt. Put nut on and tighten without moving the adjuster. If screw is tight clockwise go to 7 above and repeat.

The adjuster pushes the steering box spindle in and out of the box. There is 180 degrees play before it pushes or pulls the spindle. The spindle is a bit like a shuttle cock having tapered teeth on it. Screwing it into the box takes up any wear. Wear may be uneven so when you move the steering back and forth any high spots push the spindle back up into it's tightest practical position. That's why you have to loosen the screw otherwise the screw will not allow the spindle move back out.


Check by taking the car for a run and make sure the steering wheel returns properly when straightening up after a turn. If no return the adjuster has been overtightened and/or there is a high spot not adjusted for.

Frank
Hello Frank, could you post some pics of the adjusting nut which needs to adjusted?
 
I did mine the other week. I haven't got a photo but it's the one on the top of the steering box in a piggin' awkward place to get at but reachable with a socket, UJ and extensions. Access from just behind the LHS battery viewed from the front. It's the nut on the stud with the screwdriver slot in. Can't miss it really.
 
Yes. Not an easy job either especially if there is uneven wear in the steering box which there most likely will be.
 
I did mine the other week. I haven't got a photo but it's the one on the top of the steering box in a piggin' awkward place to get at but reachable with a socket, UJ and extensions. Access from just behind the LHS battery viewed from the front. It's the nut on the stud with the screwdriver slot in. Can't miss it really.

Thanks. Will share with the mechanic
 
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