Alternator joy...not

mussy

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Sep 4, 2011
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So as always, I'll give you the background story.

On the Blue (basically stock) 80 on coled start up the belt (or belts) would squeal a bit. Couple of revs and it would go away. Ok, ok redneck style but hindsight is everything.

Came back yesterday from Hungary to the Alps. Wanted to run the Green 80, (one I use for overlanding). Needed a jump start, no issues attach commercial grade jump cables from the Blue to the Green 80.

Then I realise the Blue 80 belt sealing has stopped and low and behold I see a broken belt.

No worries, I always keep some old belts in case of emergency. Take the car down to the local garage thinking 15 mins and jobs a goodun...

The mechanic shows me that the other alternator belt has snapped and that the alternator will not turn at all.

So I suppose I am looking at changing the alternator and belts.

Thing is mechanically, I am the worst kind.... ie. I know enough to do stuff but also enough to f"£k things up.

Questions, how long should such a job take. I can get a exchange unit from Europarts4x4 for about 200 Euros.

Any other help will be useful and as always the normal insults for my redneck style is understood in advance.
 

Gav missin

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Nov 17, 2015
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So as always, I'll give you the background story.

On the Blue (basically stock) 80 on coled start up the belt (or belts) would squeal a bit. Couple of revs and it would go away. Ok, ok redneck style but hindsight is everything.

Came back yesterday from Hungary to the Alps. Wanted to run the Green 80, (one I use for overlanding). Needed a jump start, no issues attach commercial grade jump cables from the Blue to the Green 80.

Then I realise the Blue 80 belt sealing has stopped and low and behold I see a broken belt.

No worries, I always keep some old belts in case of emergency. Take the car down to the local garage thinking 15 mins and jobs a goodun...

The mechanic shows me that the other alternator belt has snapped and that the alternator will not turn at all.

So I suppose I am looking at changing the alternator and belts.

Thing is mechanically, I am the worst kind.... ie. I know enough to do stuff but also enough to f"£k things up.

Questions, how long should such a job take. I can get a exchange unit from Europarts4x4 for about 200 Euros.

Any other help will be useful and as always the normal insults for my redneck style is understood in advance.
Make sure the plugs are the same on the back one is round and other is different more oval if i remember corectly. I've got a alternator swap down to about 20 mins on my off road truck non ac model. With ac a little more fidly but someone mechanical know how should nt take more than an hours work id say.
 

Towpack

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I'd agree on 1hr for an engine with AC, less for a non AC model. Easier to access the mounting bolts from underneath.
 
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Chris

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Take the air filter box off. That really helps. Also really critical that they slacken the unit correctly. Above the alternator there is an oblong block. A long bolt goes into that from the side nearest the wing. BUT there is also a locking clamp bolt that's hard to see which must be slackened to allow the long bolt to turn or they'll snap it off. Quite often the bolt will seize in the block thing too. You can undo the AC compressor very easily and there's enough slack on the pipes to just move it out of the way a bit. If it all goes well, like Gav says it could be 20 mins. But the damnedest thing is getting the new unit back between the mounting lugs on the engine block. Often easier to work from below. I've actually had to file a bit off before now. There's no need for the alternator to be an interference fit in there but trust me they can be tight. All of this loses you time.
 
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Trevor

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When you back off the adjuster thread (the long threaded rod that goes through the locking block that Chris mentioned), you will need to undo it so much that the end of the thread is just hanging in the end of the block.

If your alternator belts were still intact then you put a long piece of timber through the wheel arch onto the alternator body and hammer the end of the timber to get the alternator to push as close to engine block as possible, this would give you enough slack to get the belts off.

I mention this as you'll need to do the same once the new alternator is in to give you the same slack to get the new belts on the pulleys. You don't need to take the fan off the water pump as you can thread the new belts over the fan blades to get them onto the pulleys.

It can be quite tight getting the first belt onto the rearmost pulley, I have had to put a socket and bar onto the crank pulley bolt and turn the engine clockwise to get the belt to flip into position on some trucks.

I too have had to file the alternator mounting points on the new alternator to get it to fit into the bracket, it's a very snug fit. Also slackening off and removing the top pivot bolt can sometimes be a right pain in the proverbial if it's seized. Whatever you do, don't round the end off.

Top tip, if you have a 3/8" battery or air ratchet, this is brilliant for putting on the end of the long thread to undo and tighten, saves a whole load of wrist fatigue.
 
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frank rabbets

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I think there is a tube Chris which is a tight fit in the ally body lug. Just tap this a little to alter the gap. No need for filing. When the 2 bolts are tightened the tube moves to its closed position not to leave a gap. It's a safety feature so one of the ally ears does not snap off.
 
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StarCruiser

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I think there is a tube Chris which is a tight fit in the ally body lug. Just tap this a little to alter the gap. No need for filing. When the 2 bolts are tightened the tube moves to its closed position not to leave a gap. It's a safety feature so one of the ally ears does not snap off.
The cursed Smart car is like this. Once I realised this was the case and tapped the alternator sideways it pretty much fell out.

I find squeezing the belts together either side of a pulley can pull the alternator back far enough to get the belts off.
 

Chris

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Been there done that Frank. Still ended up filing it. I had extreme bad luck with alternators for some reason on a couple of Landcruisers and actually had 5 replacements. Yes and some were genuine ones. Same with Starter motors. No explanation. So I've done my fair share of swapping these bloody things.
 

frank rabbets

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Sounds like my old Montego which got through 5 alts in 125,000 miles. 3 replaced under warranty with 3 hour wait for each because it was "too hot to touch." Lazy fairy handed ex BMC employees. Not to mention a whole spares store of other stuff.
 

mussy

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Sep 4, 2011
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Took off the air box to make space. Undid the long bolt. No chance to get the bolt underneath off. don't have the experience I suppose,

Other issue is that my supplier needs to know what connector it has but I can't even get that off (I'm useless) is there not a way from the year of manufacture to find out??
 

Chris

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There isn't I'm afraid. You need to pull the plug. Getting the other bolt out shouldn't be so hard though. I can't recall the bolt head size but it might be a 14mm. You need to get in between the belts and pulleys etc with a socket. It is much easier from underneath I'll admit. Don't chuck the old one away though. If it's only the bearings they can be changed then you have a spare. Or you can rob it for other spares at a later time.

The plugs can be swines to get out. Don't pull on the wires. The plug gets all sorts of grott stuck around it which can jam it in place. Sometimes easier to leave it until you've got the unit unbolted.
 
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Chris

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Nope. Not really. You have to unplug it. There's square and oval. But the oval is really just a rounded off square. If I had to guess I'd say oval. But only because every single one I've ever had has been oval. But I'd not put money on it mate. You need it unplugged. Use a thinnish screwdriver, press in that little tang you can just see and try to flick the plug out.
 
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