An Ultra slow Ultra4 build

Ben

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Oct 13, 2010
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Beautiful work as always Ryan. :clap:

Its looking awesome! :icon-twisted:

I like the rad brackets with the dimple die holes. :icon-biggrin:

I want to get a set of dimple dies, what set do you have? :think:
 

Ryan Thomson

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Isn't the top rad tank and the hose a bit exposed Ryan, in a roll-over?

It seems mighty close to that top tube, unless there will be more tube protecting it. :think:
Hey Frank,

There will be a smaller diameter tube, probably 1 1/4" going across similar to the removable tube I have above the fuel cell. but it will be laid more flat so as to not be higher than the roof line. Then I'll put some plate between this and the roof bar to provide a bit more protection. This will also give something for a small cowl that will be on the roof to help direct airflow to the rad. This crossbar will also give me a good mounting point for the brake lights and hazard lights that I need to run so that's kind of the thinking.
 

Ryan Thomson

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Beautiful work as always Ryan. :clap:

Its looking awesome! :icon-twisted:

I like the rad brackets with the dimple die holes. :icon-biggrin:

I want to get a set of dimple dies, what set do you have? :think:
Thanks Dude.

Dimple dies are off of Ebay UK. But one complaint I have is that it's hard to match the hole size required for the die and whats available in terms of hole saws/ Step down drill buts so if you look closely the flares aren't perfectly centred. Knowing what I know now I'd go for a kit that has hole punches for each die. If I were you I'd go for this kit (it's in Aus too). The nice thing with this is that it coms with a hydraulic tool for the hole punches and dies. Swag offroad in the US sell something similar which they convert to air, so you get rid of the mechanical pump and use your compressor.

One note on the link above, the dimple dies don't look like they are heat treated, the ones I have are and I believe this is pretty important otherwise they wear fairly quickly if you are using them alot.
 
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clivehorridge

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Hey Frank,

There will be a smaller diameter tube, probably 1 1/4" going across similar to the removable tube I have above the fuel cell. but it will be laid more flat so as to not be higher than the roof line. Then I'll put some plate between this and the roof bar to provide a bit more protection. This will also give something for a small cowl that will be on the roof to help direct airflow to the rad. This crossbar will also give me a good mounting point for the brake lights and hazard lights that I need to run so that's kind of the thinking.
It was me, (Clive) actually Ryan, but its good to know you have everything covered.

Whenever I’ve seen these trucks close up, I’ve often thought the rad(s) could be better positioned, but then when given some thought, I’ve always ended up just about where you’ve put it :lol:

Of course, and sadly, I’ve never been involved with building one, so I’m an armchair observer...

Anyhoo, envy aside, it’s coming on beautifully and such class workmanship too, simply staggering :icon-biggrin:
 
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Ryan Thomson

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It was me, (Clive) actually Ryan, but its good to know you have everything covered.

Whenever I’ve seen these trucks close up, I’ve often thought the rad(s) could be better positioned, but then when given some thought, I’ve always ended up just about where you’ve put it :lol:

Of course, and sadly, I’ve never been involved with building one, so I’m an armchair observer...

Anyhoo, envy aside, it’s coming on beautifully and such class workmanship too, simply staggering :icon-biggrin:
Sorry Clive! Not sure why I thought it was Frank. Cheers for the compliment. It's been and still is a massive learning curve.
 

Ryan Thomson

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Well over due update coming in,

So a fair bits happened since the last update.

First off, I decided to redo the front axle :fearscream:. Reason being that as I ditched the whole bell crank idea it just seemed a lot bigger and heavier than it needed to be. Whilst perusing another guys build I really liked the simplicity of his front axle setup, so I unashamedly borrowed his idea and applied to to my setup. I drew a few bits up in CAD for the laser cutters, I was having stuff cut to convert my rims to beadlocks so it made sense to get everything cut in one go. And at the same time at allowed to resolve a couple of issues I was having. Namely where to put the bumps pads, the lower shock mounts and I wasn't happy with the lower link mounts.

This was the plan:


So back to a blank canvas:

Received a pallet of awesomeness from the laser cutters

these are the new towers for the upper links

Then Myself and a mate welded up the new bits to the from axle:

I'm really happy with the way it turned out. It's a fair bit less unsprung weight which should help the handling somewhat. I also have a set of heavy duty diff covers to add on still.



I still need to weld on a from hoop for the Hdyraulic steering ram to mount to. I have this bent up but waiting on my hi steer arms arriving before I fit it so that I can get the location of the ram right.

I had a set of Beadlock parts cut to convert my wheels

I made the outer ring out of 8mm Aluminium sections that fit into each other, I have seen this on a few US cars and thought it was a good idea.So when I inevitably damage the outer ring I can just replace the sections that are damaged as opposed to having to change the entire outer ring. Then I had an anti coning ring cut too which you can see resting onto of the inner ring on the right hand side of the photo. This will stop the outer ring sections from pulling away from the tire bead when I bolt them down.

Then I also had parts cut to make a new oil sump with a rear bowl, I then made it so that it projected out to the side that doesn't have a prop shaft as at full bump the prop shaft was getting pretty close to the sump.

While I was at it I had designed an internal baffle that will help keep oil around the pickup. I am copying a "trapdoor" type baffle that is popular in the US. this basically allows oil to flow into the centre section but prevents it from flowing away when the pan is at extreme angles. I still have to weld on a few piano style aluminium hinges onto the inside of the centre collection point. This is what will help keep the oil in there.


And then seeing as I was getting stuff cut I had a new welding table cut, again an idea I saw over in the US, it's slot and tab design so it fits together really well and there is minimal welding to prevent distortion.


Following that the next job was to mount up the front bumpstops:

That is about as far as I am at the moment. A few more key parts have arrived. I opted for Donaldson Powercore Air Filter and housing.


If your not familiar with these they are used on heavy earth moving equipment and designed for pretty extreme environments so it should work well in this application. Hopefully i can get this installed this weekend.

Then the gran daddy came, a Haltech Elite 2500 ECU with IQ3 Racepak dash and universal harness. This should hopefully simplify the wiring somewhat.

 

Ben

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I am in australia
Oct 13, 2010
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WOW! :icon-surprised:

Great work Ryan! You never cease to amaze me! :clap:

When you weld the hinges into the sump can you post some more pics of that please, I may have to do something similar on my 1UZ as the sump is awfully close to the front diff, even after I've notched a bit out. :think:

How much was the ECU if you dont mind me asking? (PM me if you'd prefer) :icon-biggrin:
 

Ryan Thomson

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WOW! :icon-surprised:

Great work Ryan! You never cease to amaze me! :clap:

When you weld the hinges into the sump can you post some more pics of that please, I may have to do something similar on my 1UZ as the sump is awfully close to the front diff, even after I've notched a bit out. :think:

How much was the ECU if you dont mind me asking? (PM me if you'd prefer) :icon-biggrin:
Thanks dude. It's coming along, just soooo slowly. The ECU was very much a rum, lets call it investment. I'll pm you shortly.

With regards to the oil pan, I'll get pics up as soon as it's done. If it works out I'd be happy to send you the cad files and you could always get someone over there to cut and bend it for you...
 
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IRLGW

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Not Much of a 70 series is it!

Are Mog axles permitted?

Serious work but with the cad library you are creating you could have a separate business manufacturing King Truck custom parts. Any idea of a WE and VCG from the cad?
 

Ryan Thomson

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Not Much of a 70 series is it!

Are Mog axles permitted?

Serious work but with the cad library you are creating you could have a separate business manufacturing King Truck custom parts. Any idea of a WE and VCG from the cad?
I know right! In hindsight I should have just bought a gearbox and restored the 70. But it was properly rotten so not sure how much of it could have been saved.

You can run any axles you want, I think the downside on the mog axles is the weight. It is a speed/ Timed event so weight is something to try and keep down.

And ya the CAD library has grown somewhat. The models I have for the axles are now pretty good which makes it quite a bit easier to have brackets and all that cut.

I'm not sure what you mean by WE and VCG from the CAD?
 

IRLGW

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Does the cad give you a weight estimate and vertical centre of gravity, I suppose you can do this via spreadsheet but takes abit longer. Just as you move stuff around you can tell how its going to affect weight distribution. There is Defender90 somewhere on youtube on mog axles with a v8 and id say it is a sub 13s 1/4mile lol. If I was you I would just make a fibreglass body fairing in one piece for ease. very flexible and easy to repair and light.
 

Ryan Thomson

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Does the cad give you a weight estimate and vertical centre of gravity, I suppose you can do this via spreadsheet but takes abit longer. Just as you move stuff around you can tell how its going to affect weight distribution. There is Defender90 somewhere on youtube on mog axles with a v8 and id say it is a sub 13s 1/4mile lol. If I was you I would just make a fibreglass body fairing in one piece for ease. very flexible and easy to repair and light.
Ah ok, yes Fusion360 gives me a weight estimate and CoG. But I don’t have the whole build in one programme. All of the tube work is in bendtech which does give a weight estimate but not CoG. There is a way to link bendtech to solidworks but the licence to do that ain’t cheap.

I would dig to design the next one fully in CAD but gotta get this one done first.
 
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IRLGW

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Yeah Get it built and stop dossing on the pc! You will know soon enough the characteristics when you first roll it
 

Ryan Thomson

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So, going to have to put he build on hold for a while. Some c*nts broke into my workshop last week Thursday and pretty much cleared it out. And no I don't have insurance, I tried many times to get cover but never could find any company that would cover a workshop used for personal use that isn't either attached to your house or on the same plot of land.

Those of you that shop on ebay a lot if you happen to see any of the following come up please give me a heads up:

Haltech Elite 2500 ECU
Haltech IQ3 Dash
JMR1000 tube bender with 2”die
R-Tech AC/DC 180A the welder
R-tech 180A MIG welder
R-Tech 30A plasma cutter
Milwaukee V28:
Impact wrench
Recipe saw
Circular saw
Drill
Milwaukee M12:
Impact Wrench
Impact Driver
Sieg X2 mill
2012 Trek Slash Mountain bike with white MAvic crossmax SX wheels

And then a shed load of parts that I needed to finish the car.

Luckily the car wasn't there when they broke in, its off having a turbo fitted to it. But going to have to put into storage until the fun fund recovers enough to replace my tools and the parts I need to complete it.
 

grantw

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I was trying to find words strong enough to convey my feelings on this for you earlier but couldn’t find any appropriate for here. Gutted for you mate.

Hopefully something comes of this post and you get some things back.
 
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