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ATF fluid - preventative change & preferred method?

SteveS

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Jan 12, 2013
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Just got the Hedgehog back from our 10,000 mile tour of Europe and are preparing it for the next leg. This will be in excess of 20,000 and probably nearer 30,000 miles in North Americas.

The existing ATF fluid in the box was inspected at 40,000 miles and was clear and looks in good condition. The service schedule says to inspect at 40,000 KILOMETERS for 'normal' use and only to replace at 40,000 'severe' use. For normal use the replacement would be at 80,000 KILOMETERS (ie 50,000 miles - current mileage).

So the box shifts smoothly and properly so no issues but given that it will be another 25,000 miles/40,000 km before i get back to the UK.....

1 - follow the service schedule and run some new Dextron III through?
2 - what would be the preferred method. I have heard various tales of woe. Given that a simple drain of fluid will not get all the ATF out should I be content with the approach to refill what i can but do this on a 10,000 miles schedule. Does a full flush offer any risks with churning up sludge etc

Usage on next leg will be a lot of long climbs, we're not towing, we're running at full expedition weight/GVW, predominantly tarmac road miles but 2-3,000 off-road mainly gravel

Thanks in advance
 
Can't remember if yours is a 4-sp or 5-sp, but you mention Dexron III, so assuming the 4-speed.
Generally, the box will last longer and perform better with more frequent oil changes than specified. Long service intervals is a sales gimmick, not a method for keeping your machinery healthy.
For every drain and fill you exchange only 1/4 of the ATF. I would recommend doing two drain and fill procedures before starting the next leg, with a small drive through the gears between. That said, it wouldn't be a problem changing the ATF in N.A. either.
Nother thing is that the 4-sp box is known to change smoother and faster with a good synthetic ATF. I for sure noticed a difference on my 2000.

On the same note, do grease the shafts at least every 5000 km, and after every day that includes deep fording. Very fast to do if you drive one wheel/side/end up on a rock or a ledge or block or something.
 
Last edited:
UHU - thanks for the advice.

Could be my mistake.....it is a 5 speed.....so not Dextron III? 2004 facelift version. Service schedule says D-II or Dextron III?
 
I think i misread the service schedule - was reading for the HZJ100 not the HDJ100.....so that says use WS fluid which seems to be better able to withstand high mileages.....still says replace for 80,000km under severe usage. Would the same approach apply - two fills/empties and a drive in between?
 
UHU - also found this reply from you to a question some time ago.....

~~~~~~~~~~~~
"Best thing to do is to use the FSM.
First you need to know if you have the WS fluid - which I suppose you do - because if you had the first version (type IV fluid), you would have seen the dipstick and thereby know where to fill and how to check.

It's an easy job, but with many steps done in the correct order. The fill-hole is a bit high up on the side, so it is easiest with some kind of pump or hose or squirter to fill with.

You can also have a look here: http://www.lcool.org/technical/100_seri ... d/auto.htm

~~~~~~~~~~

Given the overflow design/fill approach how would you go about doing a partial refresh of WS?
 
I have the earlier gearbox and usually drop all of the old fluid out the sump every year and refill with new, never bothered about a full flush.
I have around 170,000 miles now but may consider dropping the sump for a full clean up and inspection next time.
 
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UHU - also found this reply from you to a question some time ago.....
See, lotsa good posts by all kindsa people :).

Given the overflow design/fill approach how would you go about doing a partial refresh of WS?
Same way. When undoing the drain plug, you get only a part of the fluid out. You can then just measure the fluid you drain, and fill in the same quantity of fresh atf through the filler up on the side. That is: If you trust that the atf level is correct as is. The other method is to do as per the FSM, and heat up the box to operating temp, then drain, then open the overflow plug and fill up until it overflows. Or something ike that, as per FSM or the lcool page referred to above (in that excellent old post).
 
Is it advisable to use synthetic ATF if you are only doing a drain and refill not a complete flush?
 
Is it advisable to use synthetic ATF if you are only doing a drain and refill not a complete flush?
I did on the 2000 -- Dexron3 to D3+ synt. Worked fine. Manufacturers specify if the synt can be mixed w mineral or not.
 
Thanks for that uHu, next time I swap it will be synthetic
 
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