Batteries under the bonnet and CTEK in the boot.

cmcmill01

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Folks,
this has probably covered many times before, I going to replace my invertor/battery charger/solar input as it went up in a puff of smoke just before going camping recently. Also would like to remove my split charger T-max system.

So the plan was to stick a CTEK D250Se and Smartpass in the boot, but it does look that that would mean 35mm2 cable from the starter battery and then 35mm2 back to the leisure battery positive cables and then the return cables as well, so that would be 4x35mm2s cables, which is pretty serious on space.
Am I thinking about this correctly on cable size and what is the best way to route these cables???
Will want a solar input and the ability to connect an electric hookup as well.
Any thoughts much appreciated??
 
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StarCruiser

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Have a look at the Intervolt DCC Pro. Smaller than a CD case in footprint and about 80mm tall. Built to charge at 25A all day everyday under the bonnet under the Australian sun.

You don’t need to run the negative. Use the vehicle body. :thumbup:
 
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cmcmill01

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Why not put the ctek under the hood?
I might beable with just the D250, but would struggle with it and the smartpass.

Have a look at the Intervolt DCC Pro. Smaller than a CD case in footprint and about 80mm tall. Built to charge at 25A all day everyday under the bonnet under the Australian sun.

You don’t need to run the negative. Use the vehicle body. :thumbup:
Would like a solar and AC input if possible
 

StarCruiser

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I brought 10 in from Australia and sold all of them. Just thinking about putting in another order. Have a search on here, I did a review.
 
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cmcmill01

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The reason for wanting to put the stuff in the back, to use the nice panel!!!
The big unused area had my previous inverter/solar/ac2dc unit but went up in a puff of smoke just before going camping, so that why I’m keen to use the space for a similar system, hence my other thread.
I know my wiring is crap!!

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Chris

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I've installed a few CTEK dual unit systems and frankly you just don't need the Smartpass. The DS 250 gives 20 amps on its own. The most I've seen with the SP attached is not a great deal more. There is a nice consumer power feature on the SP though which limits draw to protect the battery. But really, not worth adding. And that's coming form someone who has two sets installed!
 

cmcmill01

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When with Victron Energy, using the solar, battery monitor and charger, did a test setup today and all looked good, love the way it all connects to Bluetooth. Also basically changing the wiring, and think I have figure a way to get the wires to the roof through the panel below the window and a marine index gourmet.
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Chris

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I took some of my roof cables into the snorkel under the bonnet and came out just below the intake head. With grommets and sealant there' s no water ingress issues. Why not use it as conduit. It's in the perfect place.
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cmcmill01

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@Chris thanks, I have the cable to the rear reversing camera, led light bar, and some awning lights to go up to the roof. The rear reversing cable has some big connectors on one end, although I could cut the cable and re join it. How did you feed the cable up the snorkel??
 

Chris

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I think I just undid the rubber joint at the bottom and pulled it up with string or something like that. There's several ways. It's not difficult to do. I might have just pushed it in until it popped out of the top. It was quite a while ago.
 
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willthompson

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ohhh you have rear quarter wits end panel... i have been thinking about one of these for a compressor mount and a few electrical bits, how much did it cost you by the time it got here if you don't mind me asking ?
 
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