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Battery
- Thread starter Stewart
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I think vehicles without the cold-weather option use one battery - those in OZ etc.
I've started my 120 with one battery (when I had the other one out to sort the battery tray) - I used a Yuasa 5000 830CCA 100Ah.
I would think 830 CCA would be enough to start it with the temps we normally get in the UK, but others would know better. With one battery you obviously lower your Ah capacity as well, so you can only forget to leave your lights on half as long etc
Why do you ask - are you considering splitting them and using the other battery space for a leisure battery?
I've started my 120 with one battery (when I had the other one out to sort the battery tray) - I used a Yuasa 5000 830CCA 100Ah.
I would think 830 CCA would be enough to start it with the temps we normally get in the UK, but others would know better. With one battery you obviously lower your Ah capacity as well, so you can only forget to leave your lights on half as long etc
Why do you ask - are you considering splitting them and using the other battery space for a leisure battery?
As above, you could probably get away with one by making sure the one you use is of the higher rating than the usual twinsets are individually, not sure i'd risk one the typical standard pair on its own, as far as i recall when we've found the higher rated batteries (100 series spec) can be bought at very decent prices one of the battery holders has more room for the larger in size (as well as performance) battery that karl2000 refers to, just can't remember which side has more space to play with.
Arguably for the odd time you've run things down a bit a set of jumper leads from the other battery, whatever you have planned for it, would help the single battery out if you've left the lights on or an exceptionally cold start is required.
Arguably for the odd time you've run things down a bit a set of jumper leads from the other battery, whatever you have planned for it, would help the single battery out if you've left the lights on or an exceptionally cold start is required.
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Just had a look and the 019 is about 50mm longer than the 334/335's I'm using. I've got a 019 in the garage (for another car) and I think it'd be too big for the LC.
When I got those I did a bit of research into what was the most CCA's I could get in a reasonable size (I was thinking I might 'split' them in the future) and came up with those. Personally I like Yuasa batteries too - they were a good price from Halfords with a decent 5 yr guarantee.
See what you think though - be very interested in what you find!
When I got those I did a bit of research into what was the most CCA's I could get in a reasonable size (I was thinking I might 'split' them in the future) and came up with those. Personally I like Yuasa batteries too - they were a good price from Halfords with a decent 5 yr guarantee.
See what you think though - be very interested in what you find!
I’ve been running with one battery since April last year, a Yuasa HSB335 (HSB335) and have had no problems. The other side I have a leisure battery and a split charge relay connecting the two. As far as I’m aware unless you live somewhere like Iceland and have constant negative temperatures you should have no issues starting and running on one battery.
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The downside to a single starting battery is the likelihood of sudden battery failure causing you a breakdown.
My 70 series had the twin set up, 12v starting same as our 120's, it was probably 9 years old when i noticed the starter getting slightly slower turning the engine over, charged the batteries properly but within a few days starting was getting slower again, new battery time, i bought new Hella labelled replacements which i've never seen since.
It was probably one of the pair failing, but due to the twin set up no failure to proceed moments, that's the reason i shall personally stick with the twin batts.
My go to batteries these days are Yuasa, Tayna sell them at as good a price as anywhere.
My 70 series had the twin set up, 12v starting same as our 120's, it was probably 9 years old when i noticed the starter getting slightly slower turning the engine over, charged the batteries properly but within a few days starting was getting slower again, new battery time, i bought new Hella labelled replacements which i've never seen since.
It was probably one of the pair failing, but due to the twin set up no failure to proceed moments, that's the reason i shall personally stick with the twin batts.
My go to batteries these days are Yuasa, Tayna sell them at as good a price as anywhere.
Tractionman
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Yuasa, yep good batteries used as standard equipment, especially on Jap cars. The Mrs had one for years on her old Honda civic with no probs, and the newer civic has got one too.
I replaced the two batteries on my 120 which were knackered, with the bigger, slightly uprated Varta, IIRC 950amps, as recommended by Trevor on here. They fit nicely, taking up all the room without touching anything else, also from Tayna.
I like the twin battery set up as Juddian, having that as standard on my 78.
There are lots of guys though, that have opted for 1 normal starter and 1 leisure, for camping etc.
Horses for courses.
I replaced the two batteries on my 120 which were knackered, with the bigger, slightly uprated Varta, IIRC 950amps, as recommended by Trevor on here. They fit nicely, taking up all the room without touching anything else, also from Tayna.
I like the twin battery set up as Juddian, having that as standard on my 78.
There are lots of guys though, that have opted for 1 normal starter and 1 leisure, for camping etc.
Horses for courses.
Wildplaces
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Two old batteries in my 2005 LC3 failed me this morning in the cold. 10 seconds of grinding then nothing happening.
Happy to put a Yuasa HSB335 in - but presumably should replace both?
Happy to put a Yuasa HSB335 in - but presumably should replace both?
Yes you should replace both, but before you do have you tried jump starting and do you have a proper ignition light on and off and increased voltage proving the alternator is working correctly.
I ask because last year (might have been year before) one day my 120 almost failed to start, it was then i realised that out of all the dash lights when switching on the ignition the battery/ignition light wasn't coming on and i just hadn't noticed.
Bought and fitted a recon alternator (£124 Lucas recon from the local sparky if my memory serves), charged both batteries up and its been good ever since, the present Mr T batteries are about 4 years old.
Suggest you check this before buying new, because odd that two batteries should fail completely at the same time, assuming they are same age same type.
I ask because last year (might have been year before) one day my 120 almost failed to start, it was then i realised that out of all the dash lights when switching on the ignition the battery/ignition light wasn't coming on and i just hadn't noticed.
Bought and fitted a recon alternator (£124 Lucas recon from the local sparky if my memory serves), charged both batteries up and its been good ever since, the present Mr T batteries are about 4 years old.
Suggest you check this before buying new, because odd that two batteries should fail completely at the same time, assuming they are same age same type.
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Wildplaces
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Good tip - I'm dropping it off at the garage shortly for a service and a couple of other bits. I'll get the mech to check the alternator first.
I've only had it for four weeks so could be other stuff needs doing....!
Pics on pre-ignition below - which I think are okay.
I've only had it for four weeks so could be other stuff needs doing....!
Pics on pre-ignition below - which I think are okay.
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Good advice there.
Probably worth charging them up before you replace them; if you've got a battery tester to check the actual CCA of the batteries, you can prove they are knackered before spending out your money. But if they're old (4-5 years+?), might be worth replacing anyway.
If one battery is knackered, and if its left connected, it can drag the other one down as the voltage in the two batteries try to equalise (as they are connected in parallel) - so you can go from one broken battery to two quite quickly. I think thats where the (good) advice to always change in pairs comes from.
If you do buy new batteries, you'll need a 334/335 as they're different on each side.
If you jump it to get it going, then test the voltage across the battery with a multimeter, you can see what voltage the alternator is putting out, which should be around 14.7 at the start if its OK.
Probably worth charging them up before you replace them; if you've got a battery tester to check the actual CCA of the batteries, you can prove they are knackered before spending out your money. But if they're old (4-5 years+?), might be worth replacing anyway.
If one battery is knackered, and if its left connected, it can drag the other one down as the voltage in the two batteries try to equalise (as they are connected in parallel) - so you can go from one broken battery to two quite quickly. I think thats where the (good) advice to always change in pairs comes from.
If you do buy new batteries, you'll need a 334/335 as they're different on each side.
If you jump it to get it going, then test the voltage across the battery with a multimeter, you can see what voltage the alternator is putting out, which should be around 14.7 at the start if its OK.
Wildplaces
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Cheers.I suspect they’re old as the service history on the car is pretty non existent so probably worth a swap anyway.
Can you explain your comment ‘If you do buy new batteries, you'll need a 334/335 as they're different on each side.’ ?
Can you explain your comment ‘If you do buy new batteries, you'll need a 334/335 as they're different on each side.’ ?
Yep sorry wasnt very clear! If you replace both batteries, you will need one 334 and one 335.
The terminals are the opposite way around on each side, so one side has - + and the other has + -.
The idea is that the positives stay in towards the middle of the car, and the negatives go towards the body. Less chance of shorting out disasters that way!
The terminals are the opposite way around on each side, so one side has - + and the other has + -.
The idea is that the positives stay in towards the middle of the car, and the negatives go towards the body. Less chance of shorting out disasters that way!
Wildplaces
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Ah - cool! Didn’t spot that. Thanks again!
Tractionman
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Karl's description is clear and self explanatory, and you can't really go wrong, but if you install the correct batteries in their wrong positions, the leads don't stretch to fit.
