Chassis Painting With 'Corroless'

[Ballard]

As mentioned in my earlier chassis cleaning post I had intended to paint my chassis with POR15 but having read some more on the subject I've decided to use a rust inhibiting primer called Corroless followed by Tetrosyl black chassis paint.

I've been put off POR15 by the rigourous level of prep that seems to be necessary for it to adhere properly to the metal. Has anyone here found this to be true? From what I've read, the Corroless will also allow me to skip the rust converter/phosphoric acid step which will make the job quicker and easier.

Apparently, Corroless is most commonly used on oil rigs in marine environments, so sounds like it should be up to the job. Does anyone have any experience of using it on a chassis or have any suggestions of similar products?

Also, I will be doing all of this work outside so would it be wiser to leave it until the warmer, dryer weather returns next year to avoid trapping any moisture beneath the paint?

 

[sharpy]

I'm looking at something from a company called buzzweld seems to be getting good feedback

 

[Rodger]

Personally I am totally committed to POR15. I used it on my 40 around 10 years ago and only recently touched it up when painting the bottom of the body, having removed the underseal. Over the years I have tried numerous products but nothing, IMO, compares with POR15. Yes they recommend using metal ready etc but I've found that MR on a cloth wiped over and washed off works fine. IMO Tetrosyl etc do not hold a candle to it. It does what it says on the tin and very well. I use the small cans as this lessens the chance of it hardening and reseal if not finished with a bit of cling film between tin and lid.
As far as getting the rust off, you only need to get any flakey rust off as it converts the rest.
My 40 is my DD so it's not like it only goes out on hi-days and holidays.

Regards

 

[sharpy]

Thanks Rodger that gives me more to think about now

 

[Ballard]

Just looked up the Buzzweld. Sounds terrific and fairly inexpensive compared to other products I've been looking at. The 'chassis in one' brush on paint looks ideal for my needs and contains Corroless so is quite similar to what I was already thinking of doing. Thanks for the tip.

 

[Ballard]

My fear with the POR15 is that for everyone who says it's marvellous I find someone else who claims it peels off in sheets and so I'd rather not take the risk.

In many ways it does sound like great stuff ,which is why I was going to use it, but as I have no means of lifting my car and will be scrabbling around underneath it, I want to avoid anything that requires too much careful preparation. Similarly, I'd prefer not to use anything too mucky as I'm likely to be dripping it on myself and I believe it's pretty filthy stuff. I want to get the job done as quickly and cleanly as possible also as cheaply as I can.

 

[Rodger]

Like you I couldn't get my truck in the air so it was a crawl job. But I dressed in painter's overalls (with hood), goggles and mask, gloves and old (never to be worn again) shoes. Yes it is mucky but also getting the crud off before is just as dirty but in this world we only get what we pay for and maybe a one coat will work but for me it was a case of 'if I'm going to do it, I'll do it right'.
It is a long job because the muck gets in all those hard-to-get-to crevices and I'd had several years of re-applying 'wonder' products annually. Yes it took longer with POR15 but that was ten years ago and you can do it by sections but first I cleaned all the old stuff off, prepped it and then applied the coating. Once I'd done the POR15 I coated it with their chassis black (there is a waiting/curing time).
For me it was worth the effort even though it was difficult, dirty and uncomfortable to do it.
We were living in the UK when I did the job and ten years on it is still as good. However I don't think there is a simple/quick way of doing it properly as the preparation is the all important aspect whatever product you decide to use. Unless you employ the professionals - there was a thread very recently which sounded very thorough.

Regards

 

[Gary820]

I used POR15 on my 80 when I bought it. Yeah the prep work takes time and I do have the advantage of a ramp. Not had any peeling problems and the 80 gets used in the rough stuff. Had a to touch up a couple of times where I've clipped the chassis on rocks etc but that's it.

 

[Rob Cowell]

POR15 hates silicone polish, grease and oil. You need to wash down any area that may be contaminated with those properly. I used it on bits of a Land Rover about 15 years ago and it still looked good a couple of years later after lots of farm work. I'm currently using Dinitrol rust converter, chassis wax and cavity wax. It's very easy to use. I can't comment on longevity yet.

 

[clivehorridge]

It looks like Trev at Freedom 4x4 is now an official user of Buzzweld ...

 

[Bert]

.......... I'm currently using Dinitrol rust converter, chassis wax and cavity wax. It's very easy to use. I can't comment on longevity yet.

Hello Rob. I appreciate that it is only a few months down the line, but did you apply the Dinitrol, and if so, what are your thoughts on the stuff so far. Cheers, Simon

 

[Shayne]

The clocks ticking for me to sort underseal on my truck so i have ordered this and got myself fivers worth of garden sprayer from Wilko's in the hope it will speed up the process .

http://www.chemiphase.co.uk/cem-gone-extra-strong-concrete-remover-descaler-deruster/

 

[Rob Cowell]

Hello Rob. I appreciate that it is only a few months down the line, but did you apply the Dinitrol, and if so, what are your thoughts on the stuff so far. Cheers, Simon

Well the sills are still intact which is about all I can say for the cavity wax. The floor panels over the back axle which were sprayed with rust converter and then chassis wax have little dots of rust all over them. That could easily be not putting enough on, but I am a little disappointed with that. I did spray the sills too and probably used more wax and they still look fine, but don't get hit with as much muck. All surfaces were thoroughly jetwashed, but I have seen a few people suggest low pressure, at least for the final cleanse is the way to go.

 

[Bert]

The clocks ticking for me to sort underseal on my truck so i have ordered this and got myself fivers worth of garden sprayer from Wilko's in the hope it will speed up the process .

http://www.chemiphase.co.uk/cem-gone-extra-strong-concrete-remover-descaler-deruster/

That looks like it will remove just about anything Shayne. Keep us posted on here..... Cheers, Simon

 

[Shayne]

That looks like it will remove just about anything Shayne. Keep us posted on here..... Cheers, Simon

I just emailed Chemiphase asking if they sent me handwash by mistake so weak is the solution , honestly i've just been under the truck shirtless lashing it on with a paintbrush and i haven't even rinsed my hands for a tea break .

Could be a bad batch so we will see how they respond .

 

[Bert]

I just emailed Chemiphase asking if they sent me handwash by mistake so weak is the solution , honestly i've just been under the truck shirtless lashing it on with a paintbrush and i haven't even rinsed my hands for a tea break .

Could be a bad batch so we will see how they respond .

Ah.........um.........

 

[Shayne]

Aye up two days ago i said it was crap , so crap i didn't even bother rising it off but i just noticed this !

View attachment 127199

And we have had around 80% humidity when it hasn't been raining here in tropical Wales since i put it on .

 

[Bert]

Aye up two days ago i said it was crap , so crap i didn't even bother rising it off but i just noticed this ! And we have had around 80% humidity when it hasn't been raining here in tropical Wales since i put it on .

Well, there's some 'rust eating' going on.....I guess that it's a good job it didn't get too hungry while going on un-noticed huh?

 

[Shayne]

My truck is suffering surface rust only so that's not a concern for me but i have done my research and will be washing it with hot water and bicarb of soda when i'm happy its derusted enough . Bicarb is said to neutralize the acid .

Must say as well my £5 garden sprayer from Wilko's is ace i reckon i could paint a whole Landrover with it in less than 5 minutes .

 

[flint]

+1 on the Wilko sprayer, I keep one pumped up and handy if I'm using the blowtorch.