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paulnanrod

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Dec 7, 2020
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great_britain
Hi I had a mechanical inspection due to be done today on a 120 but the mechanic cancelled with Covid symptoms at the last minute. I’m now going to view the car with a view to taking it if I’m happy or booking a return train ticket if not - question is, I know about corrosion at the rear and injectors (this one has no advisories and looks clean from the pics I have and the injectors have been cleaned)

what else should I be checking for?

thanks...
 
Are you talking about a petrol 120 having the injectors cleaned , diesel 120s do not need their injectors cleaning , if the injector seats are leaking the sump oil pickup will need cleaning because the blowby past the injector seats will clog the oil pickup with carbon from the engine , as well as the need to changing the injector seats and cleaning the injector seating area so the new seats make a perfect seal , at around 120 k miles its a good idea to change the injectors for new ones and new seats as they will be way past their best ,
 
Take overalls and a torch because the first place you want to go is underneath.
General chassis corrosion...see Border20's current thread for couple of pics showing just how bad they can get.
Check the inner sills between sidesteps and chassis especially at both ends, these get heavy weathering and can perforate if left.
You don't say what model, but check everything works including the aircon, very regular that the pipes to the rear aircon unit leak.
Ideally all 4x4's with permanent all wheel drive want a set of tyres with similar tread depths, or the centre diff will be working constantly to adjust.
As with any car look for leaks, check the coolant is nice and clean and preferably red, cehck the engine oil and brake and power steering fluids, obviously you'll be looking for some sort of believeable service history that matches the MOT history you will already have checked.
Brakes should be light and very powerful showing no signs of pulling to one side.

I don't know what experience you have of Landcruisers, but don't be afraid to walk away even if you feel under pressure due to your travel arrangements, most of us have travelled many miles to look at LC's and winin minutes of sliding underneath have been back in our cars on the way home again, my record is probably 3 minutes of inspection, only looked underneath never opened the doors or bonnet, it might be the case you check half a dozen or more before you find one in good enough condition underneath to be worth buying.

As TONYCY11, its not usual for Diesel injectors to be cleaned on these, maybe the seals where changed recently but you can only surmise whether the oil pick up was inspected or for what reason were the injectors cleaned and whether there might have been oil pressure loss if the oil strainer was blocking up...no oil pressure gauge on a 120 and pressure would be very low to trigger oil light.
Try and start it from cold, oil light should go out in a split second, there will be condensation from the exhaust but 120's do not smoke, nor should there be any smoke even under full power acceleration.
It might sound a bit rattley on cold start but this should quieten down and by the time the test drive is over there should be no rattles at all.
You will know how much road salt its seen by the wheels, the facings should be diamond cut and laquered and the non facing painted silver, if they've been refurbed then chances are they are now all painted without the diamond cut and laquering, painting is cheap, refacing and refurbing our wheel properly is going to be over £100 a wheel.
As a guide, mine is 2005 and covered 111k miles, the wheels are still original but spiders webs have started and i've had to touch the wheels up in several places with laquer but still look pretty good for 15 years.

As with any car, judge the vehicle on its merits, if its a private sale judge the owner, don't take too much notice of any dealer spiel if its at a dealership.
 
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Are you talking about a petrol 120 having the injectors cleaned , diesel 120s do not need their injectors cleaning , if the injector seats are leaking the sump oil pickup will need cleaning because the blowby past the injector seats will clog the oil pickup with carbon from the engine , as well as the need to changing the injector seats and cleaning the injector seating area so the new seats make a perfect seal , at around 120 k miles its a good idea to change the injectors for new ones and new seats as they will be way past their best ,

no it’s a diesel. The woman who owns it messaged me saying ‘not replaced, but cleaned’ this is why I wanted a mechanic to check

how can I check if there is an issue with what you said about the sump oil?

Thanks for your help...
 
thanks for your detailed answer - it’s private and all on the face of it seems well. Nice area, very approachable owner etc, but only take with a pinch of salt.

only experience is from looking at rotten ones so hopefully getting a feel for what not to buy.

I’ve no problem walking away and buying a train ticket home. Can’t be bothered with the hassle of having avoidable work if I can see it
 
Dont worry about the sump oil pickup if its a petrol , thats the 120 diesel injector leaking injector seals that cause the oil pick up to block up , if the car has had regular oil changes and especially has had full synthetic oil used in it the engine will be clean inside . as Juddian said check under the car especially at the points Juddian stated , if the A/C has not been use regular including the rear A/C the O rings in the system dry out and shrink letting the gas and A/C oil leak past them and escape , refilling with gas will only last a couple of weeks to a month and will escape , mine was like that because the owner never had backseat passengers to use the rear A/C so the seals dried and shrunk letting all the gas out . I fixed the problem with STP A/C sealer and with new gas cost about £50 from Halfords that was 5 years ago never had a problem since , so use the A/C at least once a week for at least ten mins so that the A/C O rings and compressor stay lubricated .
 
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I'd want to see a receipt for the work done re the injectors, hopefully the bill broken down to include removing the second sump (these have a small secondary sump just for the oil pick up) to fully inspect, i'd also want a valid reason why it was needed...if it was simply good maintenance then does the rest of the motor and how it's been overserviced (ie transmission oil changed?) back the story up.

As for oil pick up inspection the only way to check is to drain the oil, let it stand for several hours then inspect with a torch or endoscope, luckly the pick up is directly over the drain plug so easy to inspect every oil change if you diy, and the only way to check if carbonised oil residue has been cleaned off from any leaking injector seals is to remove the rocker cover and look, none of which will be possible on an inspection.

Good that its a private sale you can judge for yourself, lady user and well to do might mean towing heavy horse boxes about which is no hardship for a cruiser, but then well heeled people usually look after their cars well, well mostly.

sorry about any typos in my answers, been eating dinner as i typed :)
 
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It’s a diesel not petrol, so if oil pick up is blocked, how would that show? It’s been serviced every 18-24 months/6k and last serviced 12 months ago

will check a/c thanks. I’ll use it daily and will run all ac so shouldn’t be an issue going forward

thanks again
 
Well said Juddian , checking the oil pickup through the drain plug is what all d4d 120 owners should do when changing their engine oil , and if they take their car to a garage to have the engine oil changed they should insist the garage mechanic take a pic with his phone or inspection camera to show the condition of the sump pickup at every oil change ,
 
Sorry kid I read it wrong and thought you said it was not a diesel . looking up the oil drain plug hole like Juddian said after the oil has drained out for a couple of hours so no more oil is dripping out ( so that no oil drips in your eye) with a torch will give a clear view as the pickup strainer is only one inch above the drain plug hole , you wont see all the strainer looking up the hole but you will see enough of it to see if its clear because you will see the centre of the strainer so any carbon dirt will be visible if there is any .
 
If you do buy this 120 , I suggest you change the oil as soon as , and with the good price that fully synthetic can be had nowadays always use full synthetic oil , I used to get it from Asda for between £12 to £15 for the ASDA brand full synthetic 5W-30 for 5 litres or from Costco in 20 litre drums when I lived in the UK , the 120 takes about 7 litres of oil and the oil filter is in a fairly good spot and very easy to remove with those dustbin lid type oil filter wrench , depending on what age the 120 is at around 2006 on the filter removing tool is ID 73mm with 14 flutes , I change my engine oil every six months irrespective of mileage some may think thats ott and have done so on all my cars , I think leaving engine oil in longer than a year allows the oil to turn acidic from the cleaning around at combustion and leaving that acid in the oil can cause the engine oil not to work as well and allow more wear and also harden the oil seals making them brittle and causing oil leaking past cam seals and crank seals on any make of car which can be expensive to change at transmission end of the engine ,
 
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Agree with your service schedule TonyCY11, its only when the motor has covered really low miles that it goes anywhere near 12 months before getting an oil change.

I tend to buy either 5W40 or 10W40, preferring the 5W during the winter period, i buy in 20/25 litre packs depending on whats on offer, i'll get fully synth if its on offer but not averse to semi synth because its only going to me in for 6 months or so, what i do go for though is Diesel specific oil for the better cleaning properties these engines require.

Oil/fuel filters again buy several at a time when on offer, using Hengst at the moment which are good quality and very well priced from GSF when they have their regular 60% discount offers for subscribers.
 
You can not go wrong with that Juddian , and you will find the oil stays a lot cleaner when you fully blank the egr valve , mine still looks fully clear on the dip stick when I am about to change the oil , I use genuine filters because I got 30 in three boxes of ten from Burrows Toyota when they were on offer 4 years ago , they worked out at £6.45 for each filter , I use a K&N air filter and I got a bulk of AMC fuel filters from Rough Trax , If I did not have the Toyota oil filters I would be using AMC oil filters as well because they are good filters for the money .
 
There's plenty of good advice here, it took 10 attempts for me to find a good enough one.
ABCD of car buying:-

Assume nothing
Believe nothing without proof
Challenge everything
Don't be impatient.

A good one shouldn't rattle up on start up from cold, if it does it will need a set of recon or better still new injectors. When I bought mine the engine was the quietist one i'd found but by 143K the slight rattle had started so I put a set of brand new ones which was a £1k job but at least I know its right.
There's a lot of different opinions on types of oil for Cruisers but in my experience there's no need for fully synthetic in a Cruiser engine unless you're going to extend the drain periods. For the last 6 years I've been running various Cruisers on 15/40 long drain mineral oil ( 60, 80, 90D4D 90V6 100 and 120 as well as the Yaris D4D ) and what difference has it made to any? NONE. The important thing is the genuine oil filter.

Good luck.
 
Always worth trying to read the codes on a 2nd hand car if you've got something you can plugin to talk to it! You can check that theres no stored codes and that all the computer modules are working OK.

Ideally on a 120 you'd want to use Techstream on a laptop or something else that can give access to all the live data (eg intelligent tester2). You could use that to get some readings on the injectors, fuel pressure etc - the acceptable limits for these are in the service manual (see the other thread if you havent got it yet) - plus fourby4diesel on youtube has videos where he talks through the numbers. One posted quite recently, so look on there for the latest stuff. You can get some good information from the numbers.

If its an automatic dont be surprised if the gearstick is a bit floppy and moves between D and 4 with no resistance and wont stay in L. Its an easy fix - details are on here and I think just about everyone has had to do it :)
 
Off topic.
On the subject of oil servicing, TonyCY11 and others might be interested (or more likely cringing) when they hear the current leased for 5 years artic tractor unit i drive is 2 years old in January, it will get it's 3rd service (it has 6 weekly inspections) at 300k kms, currently its on 280k and the industry standard oil change interval for most dealer serviced modern trucks is 100k kms.
I'm not aware of the gearbox or drive axle oil service requirements.

I'd be really interested to know what Hino (Toyota's industrial arm), who make tough well respected trucks, would expect in terms of oil servicing in other parts of the world or would think of the european maker's idea of servicing.

Back on topic.

Paulnanrod, let us know how it all goes please.
 
Hi Juddian , Hino in Cyprus is quite big here , they do lorry's , busses , industrial plant type tractor things , large and small engines for boats etc , but the Hino here is the owner of Suzuki and sell suzuki cars ,bikes jet skies etc in different departments at the Hino dealers , and unless Toyota took them over and said nothing about it here , but getting back to oil , every one to their own , I wont argue with anyone what to or should use , changing their oil on a regular basis can only do good for a engine , car engines today are known to be doing 600k plus miles without rebuilds and not just because of improvements in design a lot has to do with the using of synthetic oil , because synthetic oil does not brake down at high temps from the Turbo and or G force from engine stress like mineral oil can , the syn oil can carry on protecting the engine a bit like an insurance policy , in the 1970s and 1980s engines with 100k miles that were in need of rebuilds was not uncommon . I feel in the long term using of synthetic oil will improve the longevity of an engine , diffs , transfer box , and auto transmissions were they are using their right grades of synthetic oils and fluids in them are used . and for the price difference today its worth it ,
 
I think basic code readers only work on 2005 or 2006 onwards on 120s , so hope your one is in that group of 120s for the basic code reader to work . but the under belly and chassis is the most important thing to check even if the injectors or engine is good .
 
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