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Christmas tree effect in August!!!!!

nlbyrne

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Joined
Jan 6, 2011
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120
My Cruiser has been sitting up for about 6 months and its time to be put back on the road. It was in need of some much needed tlc.

Anyway long story short if I can, after putting in two new batteries it would not start due to the Toyota alarm/immobiliser, so i removed it enough to get it started. After fitting a new rad and letting it warm up, while I was checking over everything. I noticed that most of the dash lights had come on and went out when i revved it over 1500rpm, but then stayed on all the time. Thinking that the alternator had gone I checked it with the multi-meter and it looked like it wasn't charging. So I just added one to the Milner shopping list and get that one checked as I'd hoped to DOE it during the week.

Well fitted the new alternator still the same, dash lights still on. Came on here searched and read all the posts I could find. I've checked the earths/grounds, someone said rear wiper, it was seized so tore it down and refitted it and its back working. But the dash is still light up. I used some jump leads to try find a bad earth but nothing.

The volt meter has always been just below centre on start up and just above centre shortly after. Is this normal? Its the same with the new batteries and alternator. If this helps

Oh ye my multi-meter is not reading right as it turns out so I'm going to refit the old alternator tomorrow and recheck it and see if it makes any difference.

Anyone any suggestions??
 
Tail lights seem to be the first port of call when electrickery gremlins appear , a cruiser trait .
 
Thanks Shayne, just went out to check and I've no indicators. So that will be a starting point in the morning. Now what could that be? I have checked the fuses before so not that! Humm!!
 
Does anyone know where the immobiliser is connected to the indicators,
As I'm thinking that might be the issue!
They were flashing when it was all connected.
 
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I don't have an 80 but a bad earth in the lights often caused by rust can cause all sorts of explainable havoc . As i said it seems to be a cruiser trait regardless of what series you drive so swap the bulbs clean connections and most get lucky without actually knowing why . The tow socket is also wired into the same loom so you might want to check that too .
 
Ok seems that the indicators don't work if the hazard switch is not connected, I have the dash apart trying to find the problem, its not a pretty sight. But still the same so I'll keep looking................

Any more ideas?????
 
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my guess is the immobiliser, was it just a flat battery in the switch for it? did you just run a bypass wire to the fuel solenoid to get it started?
 
I striped it out of the ignition completely to get it started. Now I'm behind the glove box taking the rest of it out, what an uncomfortable job, And you need hands like a midwife! :icon-biggrin:
 
Ok immobiliser is out completely and still the same, dash all light up. The Rev counter is pulsing with the indicators, so I removed all the bulbs, cleaned them and replaced, still the same.
A large white plug behind the glove box where some of the wires from the immobiliser were connected has a odd connection and I'm not sure what to do with it.

The larger blue wire at my finger has a light white wire with a silver dot wire graphed to it and connected to the plug. Where does the blue wire go?

image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg
 
The blue wire looks like a outer sleeve with a raw wire and the white wire within.:think::think::think:
 
Could be worth a careful check of your under bonnet fuses for any sign of corrosion in the fuse box or any connectors. Also check battery voltage with a multimeter at the battery, at the alternator stud and at the cigar lighter. While around the alternator, remove the plug and check that for corrosion and tightness of got. Clean all possibles free of corrosion and make sure they are a good tight fit. Ripping the immobiliser out MAY have introduced further faults.
 
I double check that all again StarCruiser. And get back. The strange thing is that it was fine in the beginning after I got it started while the immobiliser was still half connected. Then it started to show fault out of nowhere.

What do you's think of the volt meter only showing half way? First is on start up second is a few minutes later. It's always been like this

image.jpeg image.jpeg
 
Voltmeter looks ok but you need to connect a multimeter to really see with any accuracy what's going on.

Do you get this effect with the engine running, not running, or both?
 
When the engine is off the volt meter shows just below half as above.
Here are the results;
Batteries disconnected (new Varta G7-G8)
Dr side - 13.94v
Pas side - 13.87
Batteries connected with engine off
Dr side - 14.4v
Pas side - 14.4v
Alternator on tick over - 13.8v
Alternator @ 1250rpm - 15.9v
 
If I disconnect the plug at the back of the alternator while the engine is running the lights go out. When I plug it back in the lights stay out. But when I turn off the engine and back on again it's back to all the lights on!
 
Your alternator is overcharging the batteries at 15.9v. It may also have other issues which could be causing your problem. The alternator regulator seems to be faulty or not sensing battery voltage correctly. What voltage do you get at the battery terminals with it at 1250 rpm or thereabouts?
 
Ok well I don't know....... I put the old altanator back in AND the lights came on then off for a second then back on. Turned it on and off a few times and the same sequence happened. I checked the voltage on tic over and was getting 14.1v. Reved it up and the lights went out. When the revs dropped the lights came back on. Revved it back up a few times and the lights just went out. Checked the voltage at 1250rpm and its 14.7v.
So I don't know........
Voltage on the new one was a bit high if you ask me at15.9v. Anyway 2 days wasted trying to find WHAT??? Time to put the cruiser back together, it's is a sorry looking state.
 
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