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Clutch advice please...

Euan McGilp

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2011
Messages
210
Clutch finally started slipping a around 176K. Had it replaced last week as I'm waiting for back surgery & some VERY learned ;) members suggested getting someone else to sort this due to weight of components etc.

Correct clutch for vehicle (one of the very last - March 2001 - 3.0TD motors before going D4D), new spigot bearing as well as thrust bearing.

Having made the mistake of buying a complete kit ready to do myself & then handing labour to someone else, I now find myself with a clutch which doesn't seem to release fully. Supplier of clutch kit has cross checked every part# for components & all match several kits on shelves. Installer is happy to swap out & replace - at the cost of another complete kit + labour (they obviously need to be paid for the work); as they said, if they'd supplied the kit, they'd have pulled it again for free to sort problem...

Symptoms:
I cannot start truck & shift into either 1st or reverse.
I can put truck into 1st or reverse & it will start perfectly without drag.
Upshifts or downshifts are possible, but with resistance ('hard' shifts).
Bite point is about 1/2 pedal travel.

Result:
Spent lots of money & have truck I can't use (don't want to pull it out on drive & randomly spend more money on replacing bits 'just in case'.

Questions:
Is it likely to be Slave Cylinder or Master Cylinder issue?
If so, which is most likely?

Before I do it myself, any suggestions from those who know (much) more than me?

VERY confused, advice welcomed, thanks...
 
Bleed both again and see if it makes a difference . I can't rightly remember now but i had trouble of some sort after changing clutch fluid which after much ado i remedied by loosening something at the master and letting it weep a little as i bled the slave .
 
Thanks Shayne, will do in the morning - not as if I can go anywhere...:icon-wink:

Just totally frustrating...
 
Bleeding is the cheapest and easiest thing to try let us know how you go.
 
I had the very same thing. Supplied a clutch to garage who fitted it for me. Result - no clutch. It turned out to be the cover plate. The spring 'fingers' were weak and didn't work properly. When it was pulled and replaced with a new one, you could see the difference. In pressing the fingers manually is was plain that they were hugely inferior. It was a branded make but when reading the packaging, it was branded yes, but made in somewhere like Mexico and not where the brand was associated with - like Germany for example. So either a cheaper product OR a fake.
 
Thanks AvW & Chris, much appreciated. Just not looking forward to tearing it down to prove a certain supplier wrong - they reckon they checked & have had NO rejects of an EXEDY clutch despite having sent out dozens... all they would/could offer was for me to pay to remove, return the parts to them & either they, or EXCEDY would decide if it was defective or not.

Puts me at an expensive disadvantage somewhat.

Anyway, it'll all have to wait a bit as my son & I have decided to use the current CV-19 time to redo the 'Toybox' - insulation, lighting, power, mezzanine loft & a 'snug' with a kitchen & a loo! Should keep us busy...
 
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I previously had real trouble with the 1kzt e clutch. There are two systems on the engine. There's a flush fly wheel which is the original earlier version and the later flywheel which is recessed and the pressure plate has much stronger springs that grip on the clutch plate. It's a right pita when you fit the incorrect clutch.. I got tired of taking the gearbox off and found it much easier to take the engine out on the third time!

Later 1kz has the d4d cupped flywheel! I think after August 2000 this flywheel was used onwards.. But if your model had a dual mass flywheel and was converted on the last clutch then either one could have been fitted! Good luck with it but it's hard to know which flywheel is on it when you have to take the gearbox off!!
 
Thanks AvW & Chris, much appreciated. Just not looking forward to tearing it down to prove a certain supplier wrong - they reckon they checked & have had NO rejects of an EXEDY clutch despite having sent out dozens... all they would/could offer was for me to pay to remove, return the parts to them & either they, or EXCEDY would decide if it was defective or not.

Puts me at an expensive disadvantage somewhat.

Anyway, it'll all have to wait a bit as my son & I have decided to use the current CV-19 time to redo the 'Toybox' - insulation, lighting, power, mezzanine loft & a 'snug' with a kitchen & a loo! Should keep us busy...
I previously had real trouble with the 1kzt e clutch. There are two systems on the engine. There's a flush fly wheel which is the original earlier version and the later flywheel which is recessed and the pressure plate has much stronger springs that grip on the clutch plate. It's a right pita when you fit the incorrect clutch.. I got tired of taking the gearbox off and found it much easier to take the engine out on the third time!

Later 1kz has the d4d cupped flywheel! I think after August 2000 this flywheel was used onwards.. But if your model had a dual mass flywheel and was converted on the last clutch then either one could have been fitted! Good luck with it but it's hard to know which flywheel is on it when you have to take the gearbox off!!


Iwan, thanks for comments/suggestions - original flywheel on one of the very last 3.0TD / pre-D4D engines (March 2001). Was assured it was ALL the correct components. We'll see!...
 
My 1998 90 uses an exedy clutch and the rally driver mechanic who fitted it for me said they are the best .
 
My 1998 90 uses an exedy clutch and the rally driver mechanic who fitted it for me said they are the best .


Shayne, that's why I went with this brand. Just got to clear the rest of the jobs above before we can get into tearing it down...

Stay safe, all :thumbup:
 
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