i got all the bolts for the exhaust manifold off but it still wont budge, yea its a pain! less than 50 from amayama! i dident even know that place.
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Cooling the 1KZ-TE motor:
- Thread starter BobMurphy
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i got all the bolts for the exhaust manifold off but it still wont budge, yea its a pain! less than 50 from amayama! i dident even know that place.
luckley mate, i got a tig and a mig plant. i am that man that does these things in his dinner break
everyone needs to know a guy called rich at trow bridge Toyota platinum was spot on in tracking down the part number. top service. thank you rich.
Nicely done Tommo
and it’s back up and running pdq.
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There is a recommended oil amount and viscosity for the viscous fan. I guess if a slightly thicker oil were used the same effect would be achieved without the fuel bill or potentially destroying the viscous coupling.
Finiterex
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Hey Tom you near Trowbridge?luckley mate, i got a tig and a mig plant. i am that man that does these things in his dinner break
everyone needs to know a guy called rich at trow bridge Toyota platinum was spot on in tracking down the part number. top service. thank you rich.
You don't say whether or not you Landcruiser is manual or auto. I had a similar problem with my 1996 hilux surf and I noticed the overheating warning light for the auto trans. coming on .The automatic transmission gets considerably hotter when towing which in turn will start to heat up the radiator due to the cooling pipes running through the bottom tank of the radiator. It's a vicious cycle where trans. heats up radiator gets hotter causes trans to get hotter etc.etc and on and on it goes .If you haven't done it already fit a decent size trans cooler somewhere in the trans.cooling lines two if necessary disconnect the pipes to the radiator bottom tank and try it . It worked for me .The 6 cylinder 1HD family. I do not think any of the D4Ds have this problem either. Not aware of any material difference in the cooling systems other than the apparently superior design of the head in terms of coolant flow.
I'm not sure that the 1HD's don't have the same set-upThe 'stat sits in the engine-side of the bottom hose, but I don't know which way the flow goes...
Are you sure that your description of the flow on the KZ-TE is correct? (I don't know the answer but it would be worth confirming while theorising over the problem and possible solutions)
Yeah that's the story but try it without connecting it into the radiator cooling pipes. when you consider it how the hell do you cool a transmission with pipes running through hot water. Also towing a float with two horses in it is a hell of a lot of weight especially in summer. I've had to repair several Toyotas with this engine which have cracked cylinder heads (including my own--- I'm a mechanic) . & quite frankly I don't think these 3 litre engines are up to the job where heavy towing is concerned better off with the 6 cyl. diesel Toyota or Nissan Safari.
My Surf has got a heavy duty radiator ,trans cooler and I have refilled the viscous fan coupling and put an 82 degree thermostat in it. and it will still gets hot when I go south from Bay of Islands to Auckland towing a medium weight trailer. But I do notice that it cools off quite quickly when going down a hill after it gets hot so the radiator is doing it's job.
The question you raise about the position of the thermostat does make one wonder if this is in fact a design fault although a lot of vehicles are doing this now. Just another case of these manufacturers re-inventing the wheel. You se examples of this in various forms all the time with modern automobiles.
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But with a proper gearbox and some engine mods the same engine will pull this all day every day at 80/90 mph
Beau
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I think out of the box, these engines are a bit of a let down in regards to the cracked head. Owners shouldn't have to go and fix toyota's mistakes in order to prevent overheating when they are designed to tow around 3 tones. But once you maintain the cooling system, throw a trans cooler on, lower stat ect, they are pretty good for a light duty truck.
I ran my trans cooler on a complete separate circuit. Like mentioned above, UNLESS you live in a extremely cold climate I don't think it's worth running it in series with the main engine rad. Have towed numerous times, in Florida's hot climate and never triggered the trans Overheating light. Prior to this, even without towing and climbing mountain passes fully laden with people the trans light would trigger occasionally.
I ran my trans cooler on a complete separate circuit. Like mentioned above, UNLESS you live in a extremely cold climate I don't think it's worth running it in series with the main engine rad. Have towed numerous times, in Florida's hot climate and never triggered the trans Overheating light. Prior to this, even without towing and climbing mountain passes fully laden with people the trans light would trigger occasionally.
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Intuition tells me its the exhaust rather than the engine Toyota failed us with , a combination of heat and pressure caused by the restrictive downpipe cracks the head , correct that and the entire character of the engine changes like you have freed up a rusty hinge with a drop of oil .
Beau
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The exhaust is one of many though Shayne. It's just collectively a recipe for disaster. You could have no exhaust and have the engine freeing all it likes. But stick 3 tones behind it with the stock radiator and auto box and it'll surely suffer a bit heat wise. I still have the stock exhaust. But an aftermarket Alu rad and seperate trans cooler, stock thermostat and engine runs cooler than stock.
MarkW
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Guess I was lucky with mine maybe. 240k miles stock rad and no problems. Almost all of my use has been in Morocco and the Western Sahara.
Only once has the temp gauge risen and that was due to the viscous not cutting in. I tried re filling it according to the various threads and only managed to get it working permanently.
As a slight aside, it’s very common in Morocco, Mauritania and Mali to stick a bolt through the viscous hub so it’s permanently engaged
Only once has the temp gauge risen and that was due to the viscous not cutting in. I tried re filling it according to the various threads and only managed to get it working permanently.
As a slight aside, it’s very common in Morocco, Mauritania and Mali to stick a bolt through the viscous hub so it’s permanently engaged
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I have noticed the mighty 4.2 is prone to overheating when its an auto and worked hard (hill climbs mostly) as well Beau
The heat coming from my centre console did have me watching the factory temperature gauge while doing 75+ for 4 hours or so several times reaching 100mph but the gauge never altered from the norm . It's a manual gearbox and has a 3" exhaust from the turbo .
Perhaps this lends weight to and better explains my unqualified intuition ? https://www.dieselnet.com/tech/diesel_exh_pres.php
The heat coming from my centre console did have me watching the factory temperature gauge while doing 75+ for 4 hours or so several times reaching 100mph but the gauge never altered from the norm . It's a manual gearbox and has a 3" exhaust from the turbo .
Perhaps this lends weight to and better explains my unqualified intuition ? https://www.dieselnet.com/tech/diesel_exh_pres.php
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I wasn't with you when that happened Nick , i wasn't really thinking of anybody in particular , rest break to let the 80 cool is just something i've learned to expect on trips without giving much thoughts to the why's of it other than "must be an auto"
