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Diagnosing 1UZFE V8 overfueling in LJ70. Let the games begin...

Great work so far Rob. :thumbup:

Fancy a holiday down under when you've finished yours? Probably going to need a hand getting mine running. :icon-wink:
Funny you mention that, since I joined the 70 and Bundera pages there, I've been pretty jealous of the scenery, even the hot dusty parts. Anyplace that people carry a 90L water tank in the back of their rig has to be harsh! I lived in Kuala Lumpur for a little bit, closest I've been to Australia (well, Bali for a few glorious days!). We have a little one now, but would love to make it there someday.

I'll keep you posted on the wiring, my goal is to remove any unneeded wiring for stuff like traction control, etc. and keep it clean. I'm aiming at a general re-wire to tidy things up and get to know the motor. I'll let you know if any surprises pop up! Cheers, R
 
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Is it wrong that I'm really happy you've bought that car with all its engine/wiring issues? :shifty:

I just know your going to be such a huge help when it comes to wiring mine and for others when they do similar conversions and read through these threads. :dance:

I'm looking at buying a complete car for my conversion, which might make things a bit easier as I will have the complete loom. :think:
 
:thumbup:

Is it wrong that I'm really happy you've bought that car with all its engine/wiring issues? :shifty:

I just know your going to be such a huge help when it comes to wiring mine and for others when they do similar conversions and read through these threads. :dance:

I'm looking at buying a complete car for my conversion, which might make things a bit easier as I will have the complete loom. :think:
Ha, no problem, I figured I'd have a few things to sort when I looked under the bonnet before I bought it. It's a good way to really learn the motor before I start taking it up in the hills this winter. General things I've noticed so far: 1. clutch slave to exhaust manifold L side, very tight. Depends on what model the 1UZ is from, soarer has more compact but restrictive manifolds, need to check what works best. Mine has a bracket welded on bottom of oil sump to offset clutch slave. Looks a bit ugly but works. 2. Oil sump: the installers fabbed a custom rear sump, mild steel, plenty of room, but it leaks so I need to make a proper gasket and they drilled a hole in the side for dipstick tube. Not tidy! 3. Do the cam belt and oil seals, etc before installing, but figure you know this! 4. Oil filter mount tight to frame, so it has a really small oil filter, don't think it's original size. Check online re different oil filter mounts between Crown, Soarer, etc. Mines a LS400, 1995. Probably want a new clutch while it's handy! Lots of torque. I found out mine has rear limited slip differential so that's good, no locker needed. Anyway gotta run, I'll take a bunch of pics and send them along soon. Catch ya later!
 
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I hope the O2 sensors are oem otherwise it will never run right.
 
I hope the O2 sensors are oem otherwise it will never run right.

I've got a non-genuine O2 on my 3VZE and that's not been a drama - I did get one that was plug and go.
 
OK, situation report on the overfueling/running rich condition with the 1UZFE conversion which two specialist garages have apparently been unable to sort.

I've always said I don't think it ever was running in closed loop, just limp home or open pre-set mapping.
I've probably said this about 40 times so far but anyway...:violin:

I checked nearly every wire (60? 70?) from the ECU for continuity to its sensor/earth etc. and all good there. Frustratingly, I couldn't read ECU codes with my home-made test light last week, so I bought an LED test light which arrived this morning and worked great by grounding TE1 at the ECU and running the test light from the W terminal on the 16pin ECU plug to the hot side of the ignition switch...and codes at last!

Codes: I got O2 sensors, 1 front (er, the missing one, surprise, surprise genius!) and rear (3 codes in total, 27,28 and 29 I believe). Not a bad start, I figured I'd have a ton of other codes...

As some may recall, I bought the LJ70 with a missing O2 sensor on the passenger side manifold with a blank screwed in the hole due to clearance problems with the clutch slave, and it was just left this way. Amazing. I don't know how two shops missed this, or did they??

I located a suitable spot, drilled a hole for the O2, MIG welded on a bung and installed/connected a new aftermarket O2 on that side at last. Back in the game, sort of.

I also replaced the O2 on the other cylinder bank as it was black as night and covered in soot.

The 'How to Wire a 1UZFE' manual from Nigel Wade in New Zealand has been hugely, I mean HUGELY helpful, but after my DIY O2 install, I'm still stuck with sub-O2 codes (27,29) for the missing rear O2s (post-cat on a narmal LS400, no cat/rear sensors on mine).

The trusty manual says clear these codes by tricking the computer with some 'ghost' sensors. As per instructions, I ran a jumper wire from the missing O2 sensors control output wire to the output wires on the active front O2s on the ECU connectors. I did this, even soldered the connections, but still getting 27,29 sub-O2 codes. I'll do some research, I have to be getting close to this thing running in closed loop and solving my misfire/rich condition! I think I will need to find the connectors underneath for the rear O2s and ground the brown wires - hopefully this will do it.

It still has a misfire around 2000rpm in neutral, but I've yet to change the plugs (got new NGKs, bog standard BKR6E-11, nothing fancy, a whopping £2.18 each) as it's raining now of course. The current plugs are seriously fuel-fouled, even after a quick clean, very black and soot-covered, so I expect this may well solve the misfire if I can clear the two remaining codes and finally get closed loop.

Not out of the woods yet, but making some definite progress. I still have to tidy up the wiring, solder some connections so they don't let me down in the future, tidy up the wiring looms and at some point, replace the oil sump gasket which is leaking like mad - poor work from whomever had their hands on it.

I've learned more than I really ever wanted to know about 1UZFE engine management, but this will hopefully pay off big time in the future if anything plays up, as I should be able to sort it quickly. I am planning on wiring up a permanent LED check engine light in the cluster where the glow plug light used to live, so I can flip a switch under the dash and pull codes anytime without have to jump E1 and TE1 and testlight from W to IGNS...

More to follow... no doubt! :fearscream:

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Quick Update II: Replaced spark plugs in the rain, runs pretty strong now but still has slight vibration around 2-3,000rpm, at idle when I pull each wire, the cylinders drop. I found one wire with a cut in it, it arced bright blue to the motor, so the spark is definitely good! I'm going to book it in for an MOT now, hard to do anymore fine tuning until I can drive it. Fingers crossed for MOT time :dance:
 
Quick Update II: Replaced spark plugs in the rain, runs pretty strong now but still has slight vibration around 2-3,000rpm, at idle when I pull each wire, the cylinders drop. I found one wire with a cut in it, it arced bright blue to the motor, so the spark is definitely good! I'm going to book it in for an MOT now, hard to do anymore fine tuning until I can drive it. Fingers crossed for MOT time :dance:
Hmm, that cut could be your misfire. Time to run it in the pitch dark with the bonnet open and look for arcing.
 
Hmm, that cut could be your misfire. Time to run it in the pitch dark with the bonnet open and look for arcing.
Ah I was hoping it was! I taped the cut up with electrical tape and pulled the wire, the cylinder dropped but no arc from the cut. Still, need to get some wires. One other thing which I'm kind of dreading is a compression test, I really, really hope the rings are good, but I need to check just to make sure!
 
Ah I was hoping it was! I taped the cut up with electrical tape and pulled the wire, the cylinder dropped but no arc from the cut. Still, need to get some wires. One other thing which I'm kind of dreading is a compression test, I really, really hope the rings are good, but I need to check just to make sure!
Tape will be no good. 25Kv gets through it. Literally. As a test you could spray a fine mist of water from a garden sprayer. That would possibly show up any other tracks or cracks by causing misfire. If distributor caps and leads look old then it may just be worth replacement as a matter of course. They do get stressed electrically if they have a bigger gap than normal or nowhere to jump to.
 
Tape will be no good. 25Kv gets through it. Literally. As a test you could spray a fine mist of water from a garden sprayer. That would possibly show up any other tracks or cracks by causing misfire. If distributor caps and leads look old then it may just be worth replacement as a matter of course. They do get stressed electrically if they have a bigger gap than normal or nowhere to jump to.
Solid advice, thanks, I'll find some caps, rotors and leads today online as it needs it for sure. It was a misty rain yesterday so the motor was covered in moisture but I didn't see any arcing elsewhere when pulling wires, but sometimes on these the boot that runs down through the head gets weak and arcs to the side of the spark plug tube where you can't see it. The Toyota wires on these have the year of manufacture -1993 for these (the motor is 1995, so someone has replaced an old set with an even older set!). I'll run the compression test before I change them so that's not on my mind...if we have compression and spark, then it must be a fuel matter, but need to eliminate these first. As I recalled driving it back home, it didn't miss under load, so hopefully a fuel/air imbalance when not under load. Ah the joy...
 
The moisture would suppress arcing but cause misfires to be more apparent IF anything were breaking down. At that age it's a no brainier so your plan to change is a good one. I think there's a thread on plug leads somewhere on here. Magnecore or something springs to mind. Might be worth a look. If you intend going LPG then I think best possible spark is important but otherwise not so.

Sounds like you're on the trail of this one. The two downstream sensors may well have something to do with things (guessing here) and the plug for the missing sensor looked a bit dirty/corroded in your photo. Worthy of elimination I suppose. Your compression test should show up anything untoward.
 
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The moisture would suppress arcing but cause misfires to be more apparent IF anything were breaking down. At that age it's a no brainier so your plan to change is a good one. I think there's a thread on plug leads somewhere on here. Magnecore or something springs to mind. Might be worth a look. If you intend going LPG then I think best possible spark is important but otherwise not so.

Sounds like you're in the trail of this one. The two downstream sensors may well have something to do with things (guessing here) and the plug for the missing sensor looked a bit dirty/corroded in your photo. Worthy of elimination I suppose. Your compression test should show up anything untoward.

The magnecors are nice but pricey - about £185, ouch. The blueprint ones are affordable and are the only aftermarket brand I have heard of, though I'm not overly keen on them. I'll still have a look for Bosch or Denso first, would prefer those.
Compression test this afternoon if the weather holds, I can't run it this morning as I need to warm the motor up and with the 3" high flow exhaust booming down the alleyway the neighbours will get rumbled out of bed (though one races a 200bhp Ducati)...

Will post some updates as they roll in, hope I'm close!
 
Good luck.

I can think of worse sounds to be woken with than a rumbling V8. :icon-biggrin: Anything on two wheels being one of them. :lol:

Do these engines burble like the US V8s? I heard somewhere, I think the German ones are valved differently so don't sound the same.
 
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Might not be what's needed, but definitely worth trying a new distributor cap first. I had (well, still have but it’s rusting in peace) an old MB with the m100 V8. I got it as a write off after an engine bay fire, repaired the wiring, a few other bits and bobs including new HT leads and got it running. The d cap looked fine, no signs of fire damage, cracks or tracking etc., but a new one sorted a misfire problem. It did burble nicely !
 
It is a bit smoother than an American V8, down to the cams I suppose. The Lexus motor is supposed to be one of the smoothest around. Having said that, when it's cold it ticks over about 1500rpm and resonates quite loudly in that range. When it warms up and drops down to about 600 revs you can hardly hear it in comparison. Crack the throttle and it roars like a race motor, one of the fastest revving motors I've heard due to the oversquare bore/stroke ratio in part. I'll have to post a video sometime.
 
I am thoroughly enjoying this thread, even though I understand very little of it.

Far better than that boring Ben, who buggered off to Oz and very rarely updates anything. Wonder what happened to him?

Keep it up.

Pete.
 
Awesome thread, just came across it!

Looks like you are almost there with the gremlins. There is a great page on face book with loads of UK based folk who have done these conversions before. It's an active page so if you need further advice look up "1UZ-FE swap parts uk" .
 
Hi all and thanks for the comments and suggestions along the way, much appreciated.

Grab a coffee or beer if you want to digest this in one sitting! This one is a long-winded recap/update on sorting out the generally poor quality Lexus/Toyota V8 engine swap into the LJ70 I bought, along with the 'overfueling' problem, whereby I stab the throttle a puff of smoke comes out and the plugs were fuel (not oil) fouled, along with a strong fuel smell, not surprisingly... Also the motor vibrates/misses every so slightly, Lexus V8 should be silky smooth, feels like a weak/dead cylinder, but unable to pin it down (see below). Anyway...

So far over the past 3 or 4 weeks I have:

-checked all wiring from the ECU to various sensors and earth connections (about 3 times!)

-figured out how to pull codes direct from the ECU with a test light (get an LED one, much better, less draw)

-added a missing O2 sensor to the left bank of cylinders and replaced the O2s on both sides.

-ran jumper wires from the sub-O2 pins on the ECU to the front O2 pins, (so the ECU thinks I have 2 pre-cat and 2 'ghost' post-cat O2s!)

-checked for vacuum leaks (none detected)

-cleaned all plug connectors and earth connections on the motor and chassis

-replaced spark plugs

-ran a compression test twice (all at 175psi, thanks god, except one cyl a bit low, c.155-160psi, but think it was washed down by petrol, checked a bit higher later on, but hey, it's a 21 year old motor after all)

-I noticed the piston tops were really covered in carbon, so I did a throttle body clean (also filthy) and did the old water injection trick while it was running to steam the intake and cylinders (works well actually, kinda like seafoam, but free!)

-Pulled idle air control valve, disassembled and cleaned, and reinstalled

-pulled each plug wire one at a time to see if I could detect a weak/dead cylinder - nothing convincing here, all dropped the engine speed, though not equally, and there was still a vibration from the motor c.1500-2000rpm

-chased down an annoying pre-O2 exhaust leak, a big no-no as it sucks in air and throws off the O2 reading (culprit was a pinhole in down pipe from welding) put putty around it and wrapped that side of the manifold/downpipe in heatwrap/stainless cable ties to give the clutch slave cylinder a break from the heat.

-adjusted throttle position sensor, erm, by ear! (will do this properly later on with a feeler gauge)

-fixed two pin connectors to the ECU that were not connecting well. I started the engine and grabbed the wiring harness and shook all the wires and connectors inside out and got a relay clicking like mad, a good way to find any lurking gremlins!

Well, its running better, but still a bit shaky and not what I would expect from the Lexus V8 in top tune.

My new plug wires, dist. caps and rotors arrived Sat am, so I put those on, wires first, just to test, no discernable change, so pulled the dist caps after a lot of grief and strong language got them out. Whew. (the covers are a pain on these).
The rotor arm and cap on the left bank of cylinders was awful! Surely this was it! The right side dist cap & rotor was better, but still pretty grotty. I am convinced these are original 1995 parts. Good bye and thank you for your many years of service!

Well, running a bit stronger, but not exactly as I hoped, so running out of options here. I sensed that the spark was not as strong as it could be, so I began to check the igniters.

Turns out apparently the igniter bodies need to be very grounded to the chassis, and I was not thrilled with the mounting job the shop did from the engine swap - lots of corrosion and paint between the bracket and the igniters. I tried to start the engine with them unbolted and it wouldn't fire, at all. I then loosened then while running until it started to cut out, and have to say it mimicked very closely the rough running I experienced...!

I sanded the contact areas to bright metal and reassembled everything. After letting it warm up, it seems to rev smoothly and very strongly and no smoke that I could tell! Usually there would have been a good blat out of the pipe with each stab of the throttle, but I only got a good shot of steam from the motor warming up. Once warmed up, it settled into a low smooth idle, about 500-600rpm (by ear), right where it should be, and having a good sniff of the exhaust (an acquired taste) it seemed much cleaner, mainly a bit of moisture still burning off...

In the end I think the lack of smoothness and overfueling (or under-igniting) has been due a little of everything, missing O2, weak grounds, weak connections, carbon build-up and soot, ignition dist/rotor/wire wear...ECU needing to relearn each time batt is disconnected, and lack of driving under a load!

So it's MOT time this week, it only has to pass the non-catalyst idle test, with a whopping 3.5% CO max and 1200ppm HCs at idle, no fast idle test...

Will let you know if it passes MOT, I've done all I can for now, fingers crossed!

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