My until now trusty old cruiser with 310k miles is playing up. It was going fine until yesterday and hesitated then died while moving. I pulled over started it up and continued. It did the same an hour or so later again. Today it is really bad and in the end wouldn't start but turns over great. I took the top pump cover off and the Spill Control doesn't seem to have a removable connector. It is brown plastic with some epoxy round the base as per the photo attached. Diesel filter is 5k miles old and it seems electrical shut off rather than diesel starvation. I managed to run out of diesel about a month ago/1k miles and wonder if that is the cause. I have found a page for checking the sensor values online and will do that now. I have spent the last few hours reading threads and the common issues seems to be the SPV wiring so will focus on that first but couldn't get the plug off of it easily. Any tips greatly appreciated!
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Engine cutting out randomly
- Thread starter rmurphy5
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Howmanygoes
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Can you get it running and do a wiggle test on the pump connector/wires?
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Start by writing a signature line containing the details of your cruiser(s). If we know the year/month of manufacture, model, market and auto/manual; it will be much easier to relate to your information or queries.
The early years had the plug on the valve, the later years had a cable out of the valve and a plug 5-10" down the cable. But my 2000 had a grey plug, yours looks brown - could it be a manual?
Both had problems with the connection quality in that plug, but much more frequent on the early version. That kind of plug is good for normal electric signals, or a bit of current, but the 150 V pulsing takes its toll.
That brown blob in your pic looks like a plug, but if it's glued onto the valve, you'll have to cut the housing away carefully. Maybe better to measure the valve from the other (EDU) end first. Pins 4 to 5 on the EDU plug - 1,7 Ohms.
The early years had the plug on the valve, the later years had a cable out of the valve and a plug 5-10" down the cable. But my 2000 had a grey plug, yours looks brown - could it be a manual?
Both had problems with the connection quality in that plug, but much more frequent on the early version. That kind of plug is good for normal electric signals, or a bit of current, but the 150 V pulsing takes its toll.
That brown blob in your pic looks like a plug, but if it's glued onto the valve, you'll have to cut the housing away carefully. Maybe better to measure the valve from the other (EDU) end first. Pins 4 to 5 on the EDU plug - 1,7 Ohms.
Hi there guys,
Howmanygoes - I will try that this evening and report back but it was very unwilling to start which in some ways I guess is good for fault finding as whatever is stopping it is currently in that mode!
uHu - I will have a good look for the connection between the valve and the controller and report back with pictures. I think mine is the type that is bonded with the epoxy to the top of the valve.
Thank you!
Howmanygoes - I will try that this evening and report back but it was very unwilling to start which in some ways I guess is good for fault finding as whatever is stopping it is currently in that mode!
uHu - I will have a good look for the connection between the valve and the controller and report back with pictures. I think mine is the type that is bonded with the epoxy to the top of the valve.
Thank you!
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I checked spill control valve at edu plug and it was 3 ohms. I then connected all back up and started it. It ran for 10-15 seconds and died. I pumped primer and restarted it. It died again and I thought it must be diesel delivery issue but now pumping primer makes no difference. Should I try feeding the pump from a bottle of diesel?
OK, I had more tea and went back. Now the car has run for a short period the resistance has climbed on the SPV to 50 ohms whereas before it was 3 ohms. As well as this the loom has been interrupted in the past perhaps for the recall with a plug however the plug has a black and white wire set up connecting to the original red and green wires. I can get continuity from the red wire to position 5 on the EDU plug but the green wire to position 4 on the EDU plug is open circuit so I guess that is also an issue in the loom. Can I wire the spill valve direct from the plug at the EDU?
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There was a break in the green wire going from the EDU to the SPV - went direct rather than through the loom and started up and worked all day! I am going to wire it more permanently direct. Thanks for all the help guys - this forum is great.
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