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BAT's got a very good T shirt for this problem.
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Engine Temperature Higher Than Usual
- Thread starter AGM
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AGM and his lovely lady have just left.
Hopefully this was a simple fix, there were two bolts lose on the water pump, the two that hold the alternator bracket on. The area near to the bolts was wet with Red coolant.
The header tank was relatively clean there was no sign of contamination from combustion in the past.
Bolts tightened, levels checked and topped up and now they are on their way home.
Hopefully this was a simple fix, there were two bolts lose on the water pump, the two that hold the alternator bracket on. The area near to the bolts was wet with Red coolant.
The header tank was relatively clean there was no sign of contamination from combustion in the past.
Bolts tightened, levels checked and topped up and now they are on their way home.
This is what I love about this forum and those on it. Well done Paul, sounds like that may have him sorted. Fingers crossed no further damage has been caused. I guess only time will tell.
As Rich has said, well done Paul
Fingers crossed that this was the only problem, it's unlikely that there are more leaks.
Good result, brilliant forum, great members
Just a note for future readers. Pretty much every manufacturer has the engine temperature gauge sender fitted in the cylinder head the 80 is no different however, if there is a leak then the sender is no longer immersed in water and the gauge indication can actually go down. It is only when the head gets very hot that the sender starts to indicate there is a problem, normally when it is too late.
An oddity with the Land Cruiser, is that the thermostat is in the bottom hose as opposed to the accepted location in the head, this mean the temperature gauge sensitivity had to be reduced to stop wide fluctuations in the needle movement. Having spent considerable time on the cooling system, this is a conclusion I have drawn myself and not necessarily fact but it adds up.
A 'MUD' member came up with the gauge modification which I copied a few years back, so the gauge now reflects what is really happening with engine temperatures.
Glad to see the OP arrived home safely with some forum member assistance, nice one!
regards
Dave
An oddity with the Land Cruiser, is that the thermostat is in the bottom hose as opposed to the accepted location in the head, this mean the temperature gauge sensitivity had to be reduced to stop wide fluctuations in the needle movement. Having spent considerable time on the cooling system, this is a conclusion I have drawn myself and not necessarily fact but it adds up.
A 'MUD' member came up with the gauge modification which I copied a few years back, so the gauge now reflects what is really happening with engine temperatures.
Glad to see the OP arrived home safely with some forum member assistance, nice one!
regards
Dave
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Come on Dave, don't keep us all in suspense..... tell us more about this mod.
Allowing for my ageing grey matter, I did the mod around 4 -5 years ago? There is a couple of resisters/diodes that are wired in with the 80 temperature gauge. If you watch your gauge from a cold start, you will notice it shows the engine is warm after perhaps three or four miles? And then the gauge sits there all day and everything appears fine. The gauge is in effect 'dumbed down', once the electronics are swapped (a couple of resistors), the gauge then shows more accurately the real temperature of the engine.
I looked for the thread but it did not surface, I will have another look in awhile.
EDIT: Aha!! https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/93-97-coolant-temperature-gauge-modification.64252/
EDIT x2: I did the mod in March 2011 and it still works fine.
regards
Dave
I looked for the thread but it did not surface, I will have another look in awhile.
EDIT: Aha!! https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/93-97-coolant-temperature-gauge-modification.64252/
EDIT x2: I did the mod in March 2011 and it still works fine.
regards
Dave
Last edited:
Thanks Dave, I feel a project coming on
Your welcome! One thing it will show is the engine temp does not stabilise until you have covered around 7 - 8 miles.
regards
Dave
Good post Dave
However, not disputing any of this, on mine, especially in cold weather (which it is at the moment with daytime highs of around -6C and nighttime lows around -20C) the gauge starts to move at the same time as I feel a glimmer of heat coming from the heater, usually after about 10 minutes of driving from cold-start. In the summer, this reduces to about 8 minutes of driving.
Of course there is water circulating past the sender unit, because I don't have any leaks (he says, patting his head to simulate touching wood).
And as an aside, when my top rad tank split and belched hot water and steam out at an alarming rate of knots, the temp gauge went up to the hot stop at the same time, which I was rather pleased to see because I didn't see any of the steam until I noticed the neeedle going up (it was summer time in the dark at the time). It allowed me to pull into the next fuel station as I was passing and fill up with water then continue driving slowly with the rad cap off topping up every 3 or 4 km until I got home, about 15 km further on.
It was a new rad and full system of Mr T coolant then.
So despite its failings in design, it's not all 80 gauges that give you useless information (severely limited though it may be). JMO and maybe I'm very lucky.
However, not disputing any of this, on mine, especially in cold weather (which it is at the moment with daytime highs of around -6C and nighttime lows around -20C) the gauge starts to move at the same time as I feel a glimmer of heat coming from the heater, usually after about 10 minutes of driving from cold-start. In the summer, this reduces to about 8 minutes of driving.
Of course there is water circulating past the sender unit, because I don't have any leaks (he says, patting his head to simulate touching wood).
And as an aside, when my top rad tank split and belched hot water and steam out at an alarming rate of knots, the temp gauge went up to the hot stop at the same time, which I was rather pleased to see because I didn't see any of the steam until I noticed the neeedle going up (it was summer time in the dark at the time). It allowed me to pull into the next fuel station as I was passing and fill up with water then continue driving slowly with the rad cap off topping up every 3 or 4 km until I got home, about 15 km further on.
It was a new rad and full system of Mr T coolant then.
So despite its failings in design, it's not all 80 gauges that give you useless information (severely limited though it may be). JMO and maybe I'm very lucky.
@clivehorridge of course Clive the 7 - 8 miles is subject to a lot of conditions, temp of water when starting up, ambient temp, speed driven, vehicle load, cooling system efficiency, rear heater fitted or not (not in mine), so lots of variables.
Re the gauge indication. I try not to be a gauge watcher, and unless you are watching the gauge at the same time you get a leak then you are unlikely to notice it rising. The 80's gauge tends to hang on to the middle area of the gauge, and then when the engine gets hot it suddenly jumps up towards red, this is the typical action of the 80 gauge when there is a problem.
regards
Dave
Re the gauge indication. I try not to be a gauge watcher, and unless you are watching the gauge at the same time you get a leak then you are unlikely to notice it rising. The 80's gauge tends to hang on to the middle area of the gauge, and then when the engine gets hot it suddenly jumps up towards red, this is the typical action of the 80 gauge when there is a problem.
regards
Dave
I too left in my 'temporary' master gauge for a year or so before it was needed and took it out. Years back when racing I always had an extra OP gauge plumbed in under the bonnet. Now I have an oil pressure light and buzzer, both set to come on at 20 psi or less.
regards
Dave
regards
Dave
