Error code p1215

[Howmanygoes]

Lost all trottle response bringing Thomas back from having his new Tc fitted. EM light came on about 4miles into the journey an stayed on, pulled in hard shoulder. Turned off and restarted fine, drove rest of way home. 20miles.

Plugged code reader in a pulled p1215, EDU circuit. Had brief google bash and seems could be a variety of things from trottle pos sensor to EDU itself.

Any others with previous experience or can describe some testing to narrow search. What I am really saying is can someon post a picture/s saying try this bit and that bit

 

[uHu]

The EDU problem is a known fault on the early hdj100. The EDU controls the spill valve, via a cable, with a plug on it. This plug is known to loose it over a few years. Solution is to cut off the plug (which has 2 female connectors) and replace it with two spade connectors of the narrow type, and cover it with something waterproof. There's a thread on it in here somewhere. Just take off the plastic cover over the IP and you'll see it.
Another possibility is the grounding of the EDU. The EDU delivers a high voltage pulse with a very steep rise, and requires a perfect grounding. Check for rust on the little bolt on top of the fender.

 

[Howmanygoes]

The EDU problem is a known fault on the early hdj100. The EDU controls the spill valve, via a cable, with a plug on it. This plug is known to loose it over a few years. Solution is to cut off the plug (which has 2 female connectors) and replace it with two spade connectors of the narrow type, and cover it with something waterproof. There's a thread on it in here somewhere. Just take off the plastic cover over the IP and you'll see it.
Another possibility is the grounding of the EDU. The EDU delivers a high voltage pulse with a very steep rise, and requires a perfect grounding. Check for rust on the little bolt on top of the fender.

Thanks. Looks like that’s my job tomorrow afternoon and I will report back.

 

[Howmanygoes]

So did a few jobs Thomas today, I like 1/2 day Fridays. Took the plastic cover off the IP and there are two plugs. This photo is of the one closest to the bulkhead when removed. As you can see it’s perished, which maybe causing the intermittent fault. I tried some small spade connectors and they don’t fit?? Is it possible to get a replacement plug to splice in? Would be easier to waterproof too.

 

[uHu]

This is the spill valve, iirc (it's been a few years...). 2.8 mm spade connector is what I used for a solid and durable fix. Fits straight onto the valve pins.

 

[Howmanygoes]

View attachment 154639
View attachment 154640
This is the spill valve, iirc (it's been a few years...). 2.8 mm spade connector is what I used for a solid and durable fix. Fits straight onto the valve pins.

@uHu yeah, that’s the one I removed. Hummm I will buy some more connectors.

 

[uHu]

For waterproofing I used self vulcanizing tape. Easy to apply and not to hard to remove with a knife. Makes a permanent seal. Just clean the connector/valve first to give the tape a bit of hold.

 

[StarCruiser]

So did a few jobs Thomas today, I like 1/2 day Fridays. Took the plastic cover off the IP and there are two plugs. This photo is of the one closest to the bulkhead when removed. As you can see it’s perished, which maybe causing the intermittent fault. I tried some small spade connectors and they don’t fit?? Is it possible to get a replacement plug to splice in? Would be easier to waterproof too.

View attachment 154633

That does look nasty in there HMG. Might be worth a search for a replacement plug. I’ll have a quick look see.

 

[StarCruiser]

Nothing obvious. Is there a name on it or alternately it may be worth trying Amayama as they sometimes note replacement connectors.
Failing that, as said some tiny spade connectors and in actual fact I use butyl windscreen sealant as it goes like Blu tak and is removable and mouldable once it’s gone off.
The tiny spade connectors take some getting on at times. Be careful not to put a Z in the terminal. It’s not much fun. Ask me how I know!

 

[Howmanygoes]

Nothing obvious. Is there a name on it or alternately it may be worth trying Amayama as they sometimes note replacement connectors.
Failing that, as said some tiny spade connectors and in actual fact I use butyl windscreen sealant as it goes like Blu tak and is removable and mouldable once it’s gone off.
The tiny spade connectors take some getting on at times. Be careful not to put a Z in the terminal. It’s not much fun. Ask me how I know!

And how does one know?

I will have a look for any numbers etc. Maybe I solder some tails on to the terminals waterproof them and join with a new waterproof connector.

 

[StarCruiser]

And how does one know?

I will have a look for any numbers etc. Maybe I solder some tails on to the terminals waterproof them and join with a new waterproof connector.

Hmm, many an awkward connector or terminal has kicked me when I’m down and folded itself into a Z. They seem to sense when you’ve got very little time and catchbyiu thinking you can simply push a connector on and go. That’s when they strike and turn themselves Z shaped taking careful straightening to avoid breaking them.

Soldering and attaching a new sealed connector is a perfect idea as long as the soldering has no effect on the internal connections of the spill valve. Potting the valve terminals with resin or butyl screen sealer, would complete the repair very well. Hot melt glue is very good and quick.

 

[uHu]

The small type of spade connector really fits straight on. I've seen the same type used on the terminals of speaker elements. There are different qualities of spade connectors, and the crimp tool has to be of a type that crimps around the plug, not just squeeze it flat. I would choose connector over soldering because of ease of service, reversability and durability.
For sealing, butyl would probably work well (I have not used it myself in such application), but vulcanizing tape gives the same protection and is so much easier to both seal properly around the housing, and to make a suitably thin and flexible cover that is easy to remove. I have sealed joints and plugs on ships and fishing boats which have lasted for years and years. Vulc-tape should be a part of the tool set for anyone doing car service.
Hot melt glue is not a good option. It does not flex well and does not adhere well. It's just a blob of plastic you can shape. Does not belong on anything that is movable or vibrating.

Sorry for the rant, it's just my old profession that flared up.

 

[StarCruiser]

I think we’re talking cross purposes @uHu

The OP was suggesting soldering short tails onto the terminals and then fitting a new matched plug/socket sealed connector at, say 100mm from the spill valve, totally replacing the sealed connector. My suggestion of hot melt was to ‘pot’ or seal the soldered connections within the cup of the old terminals never to be accessed again. Epoxy potting compound would be better but is not so easy to come by. The butyl is good as it can be pushed in around the connections.

Self amalgamating tape is a tried and tested solution that is fine for anything that has access to wrap and stretch it around. This is now quite an old but perfectly usable product in the right use. On things like this it would possibly be a little fiddly to fit and as with the others would need a clean connector to adhere, the inside of the receptacle being more likely to be clean than the outside. Self amalgamating tape has been superceeded in technology by LLFA tape which does the same job really. The downside in situations like this is the tension needed to make one turn stick to the next which can make it pop off a fixed connector such as this. The LLFA tape is similar but needs less tension, in fact simply touching it to itself will effect a join. Again, a void free outer too the receptacle on the spill valve is essential to effect a seal, maybe it has this, I’m not familiar with it.

 

[Howmanygoes]

Spent some more time on this tonight, before being interrupt for Dinner. Turns out when I stripped back the protective outer someone previously has spliced on another plug. Gave the wires a wiggle whilst running and she cut out. Problem located.

Managed to get some small spade (females) to fit but had to open them up a touch first. Now just got to find some proper time to sort it all out.

 

[StarCruiser]

Hmmm, deja vu then?

I do find the wiggle trick useful.

 

[Howmanygoes]

Hmmm, deja vu then?

I do find the wiggle trick useful.

It’s a good and simple test, though one of these days I will do it and end up with hair like Doc Emit Brown.

 

[StarCruiser]

It’s a good and simple test, though one of these days I will do it and end up with hair like Doc Emit Brown.

Yeah probably best not to do it with HT leads eh …

 

[FLK 805eries]

Hello,
I'm experiencing similar symptoms with my cruiser (2002 1hdt-fte). Had a look last night and seen someone has actually been in there before and replaced the spill control valve from another vehicle. Or possibly another year? Does anyone have a part number for the valve or knowledge of an alternative?

 

[Howmanygoes]

I nice day today meant I could get round to making the repair. All done and no issues on wiggle test.

 

[StarCruiser]

I nice day today meant I could get round to making the repair. All done and no issues on wiggle test.

View attachment 154950

Sorted then?