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Finally took off the intercooler...

guachoargentino

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argentina
So I finally spent a couple of hours taking off the intercooler just to see what was what down there (yes, a couple of hours. I am super new to working on cars).

As I remove the intercooler and put it down, I see this:

Inkedsignal-attachment-2020-06-11-163734_002_LI.jpg


Those two bolts were missing and then I look down and they were just sitting there loose where the two arrows are. I bought this specific car because it has FSH from Toyota and only one previous owner. Seems sometimes mechanics at Toyota don't know what they're doing? Anyway, for some reason this really annoyed me. Just wondering if this is even a big deal, or nothing to get worked up about? I've obviously put them back.

Another thing I wanted to ask:

signal-attachment-2020-06-11-163734_001.jpeg


I'm planning on cleaning the EGR soon and maybe even add a blanking plate. From this picture above, can you guys tell if it looks super dirty or not too bad? Car's been rough idling so I'm thinking a good cleanup is probably required but, as I said, I am very new to all of this and just EGR clean seems like a big job, I don't know if "cleaning" involves having to remove the manifold as well...?
 
The reason you found the two bolts lying around was because the person who undid them when he put them back on he forgot to tighten them and left them finger tight only , diesel engines vibrate a lot more than petrol engines and finger tight bolts and nuts work loose and just fall off . and just cause its had toyota guys do any servicing or work means jack sh*t , mechanics who work at dealerships are usually poor grade mechanics or they would be working for themselves in their own garage , and they have probably little or no experience working on Landcruisers , they usually only service the run of the mill toyotas , I have spoken to toyota mechanics and all of them I have spoken to know very little about Landcruisers , now on to your EGR , yes its dirty and will need a clean out right down to the beginning of the inlet manifold and its time consuming but will do your 120 a world of good , as for the blanking plate , with out any electronic aids you can fit a plate with a 7mm hole in the centre and not get a engine warning light , unless your 120 is euro 3 spec the earlier 120s were , if its euro 3 spec you can just block the vacuum hose that goes to the egr valve with say a 13amp household plug fuse and that will stop your egr valve from getting the power to open ,and if its a euro 3 spec (less strict on emissions on euro 3 ) no engine light should light up . and a tip in undoing things like the intercooler the two rubber hose that attaches one to the turbo and one to the thottle body type thing , when you undo the jubilee clips spay some silicone spay with a straw pushed down and twist the rubber hose a bit and it will let go its grip that makes it a sod to get off coz with time and heat the rubber sticks fast to the surface it has been tightened to . the inlet manifold does not need to be removed unless it is blocked up as well as the egr , usually the manifold is very dirty at its entry and with a spoon can be gently cleaned without letting the carbon muck dropping further down the manifold . hope that helps .
 
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The gaskets are made of stainless steel with a black coating and if your gentle with them you wont need to use new ones , I have opened and removed my EGR valve up twice and put it back together and used the same gaskets with no leaks .
 
I thought I'd plug in Techstream and run a scan before I clean the EGR.

I see the following codes:
  • P0098 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor 2 Circuit High
  • P0107 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometer Pressure Circuit Low Input
Tony, could P0107 be related to rough idling? As you were saying the MAP sensor could need cleaning/replacing at times?
 
I thought I'd plug in Techstream and run a scan before I clean the EGR.

I see the following codes:
  • P0098 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor 2 Circuit High
  • P0107 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometer Pressure Circuit Low Input
Tony, could P0107 be related to rough idling? As you were saying the MAP sensor could need cleaning/replacing at times?
Hi the P0107 could be a disconnected vacuum hose or split hose at its connection and losing pressure or plug connection not plunged in properly , check all those small hoses around the intercooer and egr valve etc , same with the other code check all plugs vacume pipes coz could have been lose before by someone else or when you took off the intercooler pulling and pushing its easy to pull something off or loosen it and not realise or forget to plug things back in , let us know how you get on ,
 
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Ah I see.

Quite possible I forgot to plug something in. I'll take a look and report back after I've cleaned the EGR :) Thank you.
 
Thought I'd update this thread a little.

First off the codes were a result of me turning the key when everything was unplugged. Once I cleared the codes and everything was plugged in, no more codes. :oops:

So managed to get the intercooler off correctly (from the hose that connects to the turbo rather than the 4 bolts on the pipe. The EGR had not been cleaned since new. The car now has 197000 miles so you can probably imagine the mess that I found.

Taking the EGR + throttle body assembly was pretty challenging. I finally had to just climb up inside the engine bay to get the last of the nuts off. Lost one of the nuts in the engine bay somewhere (thankfully not in the manifold or in the turbo as I had them covered with rags). Also ended up ripping my pants on the latch that holds the hood down. :icon-lol: Hehe, never thought fixing your car would mean ripped pants. Oh well.

The entrance to the manifold and the EGR unit itself were almost completely caked up.

It took me 7 hours to clean the manifold, the EGR and throttle body (granted my kids were running around and keeping me busy with other things as well, focused time was probably around 3 and a half hours).

To clean, I used a carburettor cleaner which worked okay-ish. Then I poured some gasoline on a couple of wire brushes and a rag and went to town with that...that worked wonders. Much better than the carburettor cleaner.

Putting everything back was pretty straight forward, mostly because I was working with a lot more confidence and after 7 hours of dealing with gunk I was resigned to the fact that if the engine blows up, it blows up :) Thankfully though, the car started without any fault codes and ran smoother than ever. To my surprise, the black smoke on high revs is completely gone, something I thought was due to faulty injectors. But apparently it was due to a caked up EGR unit.

None of this would have been possible if not for TonyCY11 holding my hands. A million thanks to you Tony!

He has requested pictures of the mess which I haven't gotten to yet. Hoping to upload them soon.
 
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