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FJ-40 to become hot rod

David Rayner

New Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2016
Messages
7
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australia
I’m heavily into custom cars and wish to customise an FJ-40.By that, I don’t mean raise it up and modify it for extreme off-road work, butcustomise it like you would a muscle car. When it’s done, there won’t bemuch of the FJ’s mechanicals left so rather than begin with a complete car, Ithought I’d buy a chassis and go from there and I have the opportunity to buy abare ’71 for a good price. I’d put an Oz East ‘glass body on it because Iprefer ‘glass to steel. It’s much easier to work with and it doesn’t rust. Forpower, I’d have a Ford 460 with a C-6 trans (like my other car). Rear end wouldbe either a Ford 9” on triangulated 4-link, or Jag. I haven’t decided as yet. Thefront axle would be a dropped I-beam on 4-bar like you’d see on most hot rods,and I’d prefer rack & pinion to a steering box. I’ve spoken to an engineerwho can certify such mods and he says it’s all quite OK but, as I’ve hadnothing to do with Land Cruisers, I have some questions about them.
Did the chassis change much over the FJ’s production run? A’71 chassis has to comply with only a handful of ADRs which is great for me,but is a ’71 model a good one to have? My favourite bike (of which I have 3) camewith two distinctly different frames – ’70 to ’73, and ’74 to 81. The earlyframes are junk so I have to ask the question about Land Cruisers.
Has anyone used an Oz East ‘glass body? Are they well made?Are they certified for road use or are they “off-road only”.
Does the chassis number indicate things like year ofmanufacture, country delivered to, and left/right hand drive? Can you quote atypical chassis number (use your own if you like) and tell me what all theletters and numbers mean?
I know they were made in LHD for other countries but anychassis I buy here in Australia will be RHD and I’d want to convert it to LHDbecause my wife is deaf in her right ear. When we’re in her Mazda, she drivesand I sit to her left. When we’re in my Ford, I drive and I sit to her left(it’s an American model). If I sit to her right, she can’t hear a word I’m saying. Do youthink a RHD chassis would be easy to convert to LHD? Given that the front axlewill be changed and most of the steering linkages will be hand fabricated,could it be any harder than locating the rack where I want it to be? Even if Iuse a steering box, surely it’d be just a matter of moving it to the left side?
If all this sounds like pie in the sky, please be aware thatradical cars (and bikes) are nothing new to me and I’m quite capable ofbuilding such a thing. It’s just that I know next to nothing about LandCruisers, except that the one in my mind will be a sight to behold and be somethingno one else has.
Thank you.
Dave.
 
This will have to be see to be believed :wtf:

Can't help you with your questions I'm afraid Dave, but I can't wait to see some sketches or photos as this progresses, watching this with interest!
 
Hi Dave,
Like you I have been into hot rods for five decades but also have a modified BJ40 so I can give you a few pointers.
Chassis: There were very few changes to the 40 series chassis over the years and if memory serves '75 and '80 had minor changes so a '71 is fine. The chassis is very strong but on early ones check for cracks over the rear wheel. If it has had a hard life then that's where any stress will express itself.
Steering: The steering box is set back and operates a link to a centre balance which is forward of the radiator. The system is the same for both LHD and RHD but obviously the drag links are different.
Rear axle: Jag rear ends like to be mounted on a straight rail chassis and the mounting points would be on a curve so you may be better considering the 4 link Ford.
Body: I am not familiar with the f/glass body of which you speak but would say that the f/glass bodies that I've seen in Europe lack the sharpness that a metal body presents. The metal bodies do suffer from rust but on mine I taught myself to sling lead and rust is no longer a problem especially as it get cleaned off thoroughly and regularly. The stock body panels bolt together and are made from thick metal - I can stand on a mounted wing without it denting or deforming. It shouldn't be too difficult to change from RHD to LHD as the glove box is the same position and (possibly) outline as the dashpod and the bulkhead is uncomplicated - just a question of cutting or blocking various holes.
I did some work with another member on here on an ali body and that was quite a well made piece of kit and would suggest that an ali body may be a better alternative to fibreglass in the long run however I would point out that the front of the wings is shaped differently and you may have to use a steel bonnet. personally I think the shape of the front wings is a major contributory factor to the look of the 40 series.
Vin number: Put the VIN number into www.toyodiy.com under parts. It will give the full picture of the vehicle. Be aware that 43, 45 & 47 have different chassis lengths.
Anything else that we can help with, just ask. Where abouts in Oz are you? Photos please

Regards,
 
Wow I'm looking forward to seeing this unfold, I unfortunately am of no help I am not great mechanically minded but I am from oz and would love to see this once it's done. Where a outs are you from?

Cheers
Mitchy
 
Thanks fellas, especially Roger. I live in Sydney but am having a house built at Medowie (Port Stephens area - just north of Newcastle) and should be living there in around 6 months. I sent a message to Oz East asking if their bodies are certified for road use, and they are. That's great because I have to rebody it whether I want to or not. Why? So it says "rebodied" on the rego papers. Even a replica of the stock body must be certified by an engineer. If it's already approved, all he'd be checking for is that it's mounted correctly but he signs it off as rebodied. I need that because I intend to make major changes to the body, which is why I prefer 'glass. The idea is that it'll look nothing like a Land Cruiser so if I ever get pulled up by the fuzz and they say "this is not a Land Cruiser" I can say "it's a rebodied one". The things you have to do.

So, if it's to look nothing like a Land Cruiser, why even start with a and Cruiser? The hot rod I've always wanted to build is a Model T, C-Cab, panel van. You see lots of T-buckets but never a panel van. No one makes these bodies so I thought I'd have to make it myself. I could, but it'd have to be fully tested and engineered and that would cost a fortune. Oz East, and everyone who makes '20s and '30s Ford bodies in 'glass for hot rods had to do that but they got their investment back by producing hundreds of them. I'll only ever make one. Then I saw a pic somewhere of a Land Cruiser that was chopped, channelled, and had a suicide front axle but still looked very much like a Land Cruiser. Then it hit me. A Land Cruiser has flat sides, flat rear, the sides and rear are not only flat but also vertical. They can be run without doors. The windscreen and A-pillars are removable. The doors are not parallel to the centre line, but angle inwards towards the front just like a Model T panel van. They come in long and short wheelbase. In NSW, there is no limit to the cubic capacity of engine you can put into a 4WD, as long as it physically fits in the bay. All I need is the tub as the bodywork forward of the doors will not be there at all. As far as I know, you can still buy 'glass canopies for them which will form the basis for the roof. All I need do is make the C of the C-cab, fill in the windows, and 'glass the canopy onto the tub so they are 1 piece. Oh, if I don't like the look of the firewall, I'll remove it and it graft one in from a T-bucket to make it look more like a '23. The Land Cruiser cowl looks a bit like a '27-28 cowl but I prefer the look of a '23. We'll see.

As for rego, as long as all the mods I mentioned are engineer approved (which they will be) I could get full rego and I could even get street rod rego if it looks enough like a Model T, but I don't want that. A rod is considered a new car and therefore cannot be a lefty but a regular car over 30 can be if it was made that way. The chassis I buy won't be and that's why I asked what the ID number tells you and how hard it'd be to convert. An old car doesn't need a catalytic convertor and lots of other stuff I feel has no place on the kind of rod (I'll call it a rod) I want.

As for what it'll look like, here's a pic of a long C-cab van. You'd use a troopy chassis and body for this but I'm going with a shorty because I think they look nicer. Imagine this van shortened by 2 feet or so in the rear. Model T 3.jpg This car was built by Andy Brizio of San Francisco back in the early '70s. I visited his son Roy's shop a while ago in search of it. They said it was last seen in the area around 1o years ago. I'd love to have seen it in the flesh. I hope no one is too disappointed that I have no real interest in Land Cruisers for their own sake.
 
I hope no one is too disappointed that I have no real interest in Land Cruisers for their own sake.

That's OK Dave, it's soul will still be a Land Cruiser
angel-053.gif
. Keep us updated on your progress.
 
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Hi Dave,

What an interesting concept.
The first C cab that Andy Brizio built was sold to the late Jon Bonham and it was shipped to the UK where it still resides today. I've included a couple of photos of 'Andy's Instant T' taken in 1977. The motor it runs today is a blown Camaro SS unit and that came from another famous UK car that is still around today - Mick Cooke's Silhouette.
I think the tech guys at the NSRA in the Uk would be interested in the way things work in Oz as there is currently a move to make registering hot rods extremely difficult in the Uk. I've also included a photo of another C-cab - Revenge - which was voted the UK's hot rod of the century (last) in 2001 but you might find some of the body styling interesting.

oldhotrodshow1.jpgC cab martyn b.jpgBelle vue 19820048.jpg
 
Sadly, I can't contribute, but I'm lovin' this thread already... :icon-biggrin:
 
tumblr_o362g33lCo1sjhycyo1_1280.jpg


I'd drive that in a heat beat
 
Awesome mate, once you get started I'd love to come have a gander, I'm sure there's plenty of things I could learn off you! Unfortunately there isn't many people around Newcastle that I know of with fj40s so will be good to see your project first hand rather than on the Internet
Cheers
Mitch
 
That beige car that Mark W showed is indeed the one that sent me down this road. I've seen pics of Andy Brizio's C-cab and also Revenge. I love the body on Revenge but it would have to be made from scratch and that means engineering and testing. No thanks. Another rod I've always liked is the Milk Truck (which I saw when it and a several other toured Australia in the early '70s and again 6 months ago in the Galpin Ford Museum) so I'm half-considering a square C with a flat roof. Here is a drawing I did of both versions of the body.My Drawings.jpg I'm in WA at the moment but when I go home in a week or so, I'll go and look at the chassis I mentioned and if it's suitable and in reasonable nick, I'll buy it. Even if I do, my house won't be done for 6 months or so. I'll have to put the chassis in storage until I'm moved in and have set up my workshop. In other words, nothing's going to happen for a while but when it does, I'll post some pics.
 
Great ideas Dave.
I and many others will follow this with interest.

For those who may not know the 'Milk Truck' - here's a photo and the Pizza wagon as well both built by Dan Woods in the USA

milk truck & pizza wagon.jpg

Regards,
 
That beige car that Mark W showed is indeed the one that sent me down this road. I've seen pics of Andy Brizio's C-cab and also Revenge. I love the body on Revenge but it would have to be made from scratch and that means engineering and testing. No thanks. Another rod I've always liked is the Milk Truck (which I saw when it and a several other toured Australia in the early '70s and again 6 months ago in the Galpin Ford Museum) so I'm half-considering a square C with a flat roof. Here is a drawing I did of both versions of the body.View attachment 25480 I'm in WA at the moment but when I go home in a week or so, I'll go and look at the chassis I mentioned and if it's suitable and in reasonable nick, I'll buy it. Even if I do, my house won't be done for 6 months or so. I'll have to put the chassis in storage until I'm moved in and have set up my workshop. In other words, nothing's going to happen for a while but when it does, I'll post some pics.

this is awesome, in particular I like the first drawing as it will show more resemblance of the fj40, deffo looking forward to seeing this and catching up with you once you get set up. You will be 40 or so away!
cheers
 
Well, I went and looked at the "chassis" for $400 at the wrecker's the other day and it turned out to be a lot more than that. Most of the body is there, as is the motor and trans, rear axle, most of the steering, and a pile of parts thrown in a heap inside that I haven't even looked at. On top is the roof of a Land Rover which I have no use for. When I said I was told it was a bare chassis, the wrecker said he'd strip it down to that but then said (thinking aloud I suspect) that it'd cost close enough to $400 to do that, so I bought the lot for $400 and it's being transported to my shed next Tuesday. It'll sit in a corner for a year or so while the house gets built (not started yet but about to be), garage is set up, and two bike projects get finished off. I'll continue this then.
 

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Still interested in the 'planning' stage though... Please keep us updated David...
 
Hi Dave,

Looks like you got a good selection of parts at a good price too
 
David, I suspect that you have already seen the article about the fawn 40 but for others who would like to know more, see:
http://www.engineswapdepot.com/?p=10055
At the foot of the article there are pieces about an FJ40 with 1278bhp and over 1000 lbs of torque; an 80 series that runs a big block and an incomplete project 80 that has been widened by 12 inches and has a mid-mounted V8 (and that one is for sale).

Regards,
 
LATE BREAKING NEWS - Before I bought the Cruiser, I called a certifying engineer who's sympathetic to modified cars to ask if the car could be registered and driven with a dropped I-beam front axle, a Jag rear axle, a V-8 engine, and a replacement 'glass body. He said yes, so I bought the car. It's sat in my shed for about a year now and I called him again a few days ago to ask if we needed to meet before work began to which he said no. I also asked a question I wish I had asked before I bought the car – can it be run without a bonnet? The answer was an emphatic no. Cars classed as, and registered as street rods get way more latitude than regular cars in the way of engine size, wheel width, and many other things and one of those is having the engine exposed. Hot rods can but non-hot rods can’t and no matter how much the finished car will look like a hot rod, it’ll be registered as whatever the chassis is and that's a modified 1970 Land Cruiser. That was a deal breaker and so the Land Cruiser will be sold and I’ll have to go the street rod route. That means building a chassis that’s a replica of a Model T. I can still use a ‘glass Land Cruiser body but the cowl must look like a Model T cowl. It does look a little like the cowl of a ‘27-28 model but I do prefer the look of a ‘23. The entire body would also have to be narrowed so the wheels are outboard which I was always going to do but all things considered, it may be easier to have a new body made. Long story short, for as much as it's do-able, sensible, easier and cheaper to build my car out of a Land Cruiser, a major styling cue is simply not allowed so this project has been cancelled. Well, a C-cab that looks like the blue one will still be built, but not from a Land Cruiser so this is the last you'll hear about it. Thanks to everyone for all the help, info, and encouragement you've given but as it turns out, I should never have come here in the first place. If anyone wishes to buy the car, I'd like the $400 I paid for it. Message me or call 0417890835 or email [email protected] The car is in Medowie, NSW.
 
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