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Front and rear parking sensors stopped working

paulnanrod

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Joined
Dec 7, 2020
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great_britain
Hi

my front and rear sensors have stopped working. When putting in reverse over the last few days the rear sensors have beeped like there was something behind, then it changed to a much lower-toned buzz from behind the centre of the dash and cut out.

It did that when i drove it today and now none are working. Has anyone had this before, and does anyone have any ideas of any causes/fixes?

thanks...
 
Does it still beep? I think there's a way to make it beep an error code out, but you might have to remove the glovebox and plug the button into a different connector!

Loads of us here have had problems with them - mine are currently disconnected!
 
Yep, my rears are turned off and the fronts had their throat's cut, but that's no help to you, sorry.
I just got fed up with the bloody things playing up, and decided I don't need 'em.
The first time mine played up, and I was getting nowhere, Karl told me to lightly rub my finger across the front of each sensor, if there was power there you should 'feel' a crackle with ignition on and in appropriate gear.
Apparently, although Toyota fit them, they are not a Toyota part, as someone went there and got no help.
Good luck.
 
No help I’m afraid. But if you can’t sort it then I can recommend KK moon sensors from Amazon. I thought that fir £13 or so they couldn’t be much good but they have been in my campervan now fir a while and also in the LC. V good reviews on Amazon. I wouldn’t be without the rear sensors so worth a thought if there isn’t an easy fix for the Toyota ones.
 
Well, next time I drove it they worked so I’m not sure if they’re on their way out. I’ve put a camera in for when I’m putting the caravan so if they die I can disconnect them and rely on the camera in interim. I’ll then put the KK Moon sensors on when it’s a bit warmer (too soft for the cold). As you said Adrian, I use my rear sensors a lot. Rather those than the camera

thanks again for the help...
 
IMHO they can make you lazy and reliant on something that sooner or later is not reliable.
They are of no use anyway if you strike something low, midship.
Yes, use them as a guide if you have to, but never rely on them completely, there is no substitute for your eyes, in conjunction with mirrors, and particularly if reversing, if your not sure get out and look .
I have towed different things for over 25 years, including towing trailers with hgv, (artics and wagon and drags) and have yet to have problems and damage coupling up.
OK, so can't do it in one all the time without looking, with caravan, but I am never in that much of a rush anyway. Cheers.
 
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Good sense Tractionman but I still find them a boon- and more useful than the camera except when coupling up. The trouble with all technology is that you do get to rely on it. My wife’s Golf is a lovely car but it sometimes strikes me how I take for granted it’s radar cruise , auto braking and pulling off in traffic, auto dipping of high beam , auto keeping you in lane etc etc. As I say you end up taking it for granted but.....
 
Seeing as you're keen on getting them going, here's all the docs!

Look at pages 5 - 6 on the 'setup programming' guide - that tells you how you're supposed to be able to get some codes out of the thing. It's not integrated with the car in the usual way so you can't read codes from its computer via OBD.

Mine was totally dead, never worked - determined that at least the computer bad, and that theres also some other issues with it; then the weather got cold and that was that :)

Good luck
 

Attachments

  • Set-up programming - Toyota-tech.eu.pdf
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  • TPA800 RHD PZ464-00425-00 AIM 000 302-1.pdf
    4.7 MB · Views: 289
  • TPA_front_troublshoot_guide.pdf
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  • TPA_rear_troublshoot_guide.pdf
    1.5 MB · Views: 270
That info from Karl is the best your gonna get. I have the original handbook for these supplied with vehicle when new , TPA800.
It just gives an idea how they work, an idiot could figure that out, and if having problems , "please contact the installer", well, that would have been Toyota, although they can't help cos its not Toyota branded.
It does say however, that "should they emit a constant intermittant tone with long beeps and short pauses",
there is a problem with the connection of the sensors. That could be anywhere.
Although Adrian was successful in removing his sensors from the bumper and replacing, to get to the whole of the wiring it's bumpers off job. A bastard to say the least, with rusted and corroded fixings, bolts snapping etc.
and that was just the rear.
Don't ask me how I know !
Adrian would be best placed to tell you how to replace with aftermarket, having done it. Good luck.
 
Sorry Adrian, my mistake there, dipping you in for extra work. I remember you now talking about the drilling to fit the moonies. Cheers.
 
Ha thanks - and it’s a good job I like the car. To be honest I’ve got a list of things that are getting done on Thursday (service as not done for 14 months (before I bought, air con pipe has a leak so needs finding, replacing and heating runs cold idling so guess heater matrix blocked?, tracking needs doing) and they take priority. I can manage without them and will use the camera when putting the caravan on (hopefully soon) so can work around it for now. They are nice to have as a security thing though so will replace them

thanks
 
heating runs cold idling so guess heater matrix blocked?

Even when the engine is up to temp? Whats your coolant level like?

If the engine is cold, the heater will be - use the power heater / idle up to get it to warm up quicker.

I had a similar problem when the engine is warm. I think its down to there being air in the cooling system. I topped the coolant up over the full mark, put the heater on full blast for a half hour drive. Coolant found its own 'correct' level and heater was fixed after that.
 
Thanks Karl. To be honest I’ve topped it up and it has gone down slightly. I’ll try that as it’s closer to the min level. Hopefully it is air and nothing worse.

yes, when engine is up to temp and idling at lights for example it runs cooler. Then when going again it runs warm
 
After looking at coolant level I now have a question about coolant reservoir. My level is at 'low' and the engine was slightly warm (needle just over the bottom of the gauge). When topping up as much was coming out of the black overflow pipe (I guess that's what it is on the neck of the reservoir) and the level wasn't going up (no surprise). Is that normal, and if not does anyone have any idea of possible causes?

thanks
 
HI Paul, mine was similar, in that the level was always on low - I think when the coolant is changed they dont always put enough back in and dont take time to get rid of the airlocks.

The level in the expansion tank (where you fill it on the 120) should be about FULL when the engine is cold; when the engine is warmed up, the level will be lower, and then as the engine cools down again after use it should rise again to around full.

What I did was - on a cold engine, top up the coolant to way ABOVE the full mark (so that it almost comes out of the overflow). Then go for a half hour drive with the heater on full blast. Obviously you've overfilled it, but you dont know by how much yet because you dont know how much air is in there. Check the level when you come back as the engine cools down - it should rise. You may get some escaping out of the overflow if you've put too much in, but the coolant will find is own correct level once the air has gone. If its still low, you might have to repeat this again to get all the air out.

See what others say, but I had exactly the same symptoms as you, so I think you've got the same problem!
 
My sensors work only when I reverse,front (right two) and rear ones. But I can survive that. Went to Toyota service for a quick check,didnt know exactly what is wrong.
 
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