HDJ80

[nielsc]

Hi nielsc i would very much appreciate a side view pic of your truck with the +4" springs fitted , and your thoughts on whether or not 15x10 wheels with a -50 offset wearing 35 inch tyres might clear the arches under articulation ?

Here is a picture of how high mine sits.
It has sagged over the last months tough, i think it’s more of a 3” lift.
Rear OME863 +2” +200kg springs, they were much more than 2” but have settled a bit now ( my cargo space is empty and no rear seats)
Front are OME2419 competition +4” +50kg springs, but a bit more than weight than 50kg so they settled at a 3” lift i guess.
I’m not a great fan of the OME springs as I’ve had alot of them sag.
The pedders 4” will be what I try next if the OMEs sag any further.


15x10 won’t fit on hdj80 after 1993 because of the large calipers in the rear.
15x8 et-25 with 6mm spacer might jusr clear it, but 10 hits.
I fitted -44 16x10 from a mate and they stick out the arches a fair bit, too much for me, and I think they will hit the arches on the top. Also depend on how much you will lift it offcourse.
If you are like me and like the deep dish wide rim look with 35s I’d get these:
https://www.4x4tyres.co.uk/16-tuff-torque-modular-steel-black_s16613932blkmod
-32 offset instead of -44 or -50 so they wont stick out too much and still are 10” wide.

 

[nielsc]

hi mate

Been looking back on this thread, what increase in power did the intercooler and tuned pump produce over standard, and how much did the fuel usage change. I’m looking at this up upgrade for my 80

Thanks

I can’t really say as I have bought it with the intercooler and tweaked pump. Boost is at 1 bar,EGT’s don’t go over 550 celcius pre turbo and hardly any smoke, and I find it goes pretty well.
As for fuel, for now I have 3.7 manual ratios in the diffs and as it is an auto conversion its supposed to have 4.1 ratio so it is geared waaayyy off. Because of that, fuel consumption is 14 - 16 l/100km.
With stock tyres on the 3.7 , wich would be the same as 35s on 4.10 it does 13l/100 km
Because of that I am now sourcing all the parts to regear my diffs to 4.1 and that will be the next upgrade.

 

[Shayne]

Thanks Niel
I actually have a set of tuff torque -32 16x10 on my 90 series and -38 16x8 on the mrs 90 so i'm well aware there's a whole lot of guesswork involved . I'm just toying with ideas right now and i must say your truck does look good

 

[nielsc]

Thanks Niel
I actually have a set of tuff torque -32 16x10 on my 90 series and -38 16x8 on the mrs 90 so i'm well aware there's a whole lot of guesswork involved . I'm just toying with ideas right now and i must say your truck does look good

thanks, and oh yes that’s right you already have those
If you try them on the 80, send me a picture, I’ve been thinking of getting them for mine

 

[StarCruiser]

thanks, and oh yes that’s right you already have those
If you try them on the 80, send me a picture, I’ve been thinking of getting them for mine

What do you mean “If” Niels? It’s bound to happen at some point.

 

[Shayne]

The 16x10 i have wear 305/70 R16 and the 16x8 285/75 R16 both are just about big enough to be in proportion with a collie so the 80 needs bigger .

I'm trying to avoid the hit and miss approach by which my 90 evolved into what it is today but it's hard to push limits without having parts to test with or even another modified 80 nearby to help me visualize my goal .

Buy once and buy right is my hope .

 

[nielsc]

In the next weeks I am going to to clean up my rear axle and chassis.
Some idiot covered the whole underside of the 80 in a thick sticky bitumen coating, and ofcourse rust has come under this coating, so now is the time to clean it up as wheater id getting better.
I started at the rear axle with a wire wheel on an angle grinder, and removed chuncks of rust with a screwdriver so it was quite bad.
Unless i strip the complete axle I am never going to be able to remove every bit of rust, so I was thinking remove al thick rust and sand, wire wheel as best as possible and put on a rustremover and then a special fero-paint.
Any tips for this?

 

[Iwan]

When I first got my 81, being an early JDM import there wasn't much underside treatment as such.

So you're right to take the rear axle off to do a really good job on it... it allows you to get right into the inside of the chassis area above the axle and to a bit more of the boot floor..

The only annoying part of doing this way is that and am being very persnickety is that there could be rust on the top of the chassis as there's no way to get to it.

Seen these guys flicking around with a few different nozzles and doing the job in 3hrs... erm not really sure you got to 100% of the underside of the truck! Lol

 

[Shayne]

I tried to get quite exhaustive with this process https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/kzj90-first-used-may-12th-1998.148004/ and with the benefit of experience when i start on my 80 i will use Dychem Super Limate , Zinger galvanized paint and maybe Por 15 topcoat , though i have no personal experience of the stuff .

I forgot to add - when its all done that's when i would have the Krown treatment .

 

[nielsc]

I tried to get quite exhaustive with this process https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/kzj90-first-used-may-12th-1998.148004/ and with the benefit of experience when i start on my 80 i will use Dychem Super Limate , Zinger galvanized paint and maybe Por 15 topcoat , though i have no personal experience of the stuff .

I forgot to add - when its all done that's when i would have the Krown treatment .

Thanks, looks good.
I was thinking of getting the same style brush you have used and put on HG rust remover and then 2 coats of paint suited for steel that can be painted over rust.

 

[nielsc]

This weekend I did the rear chassis parts behind the rear axle.
Wire brushed it, then 3 coats of Brunox epoxy rust converter, then 2 coats of Boss Finifer to finish it off.

 

[nielsc]

Did some more rusty parts like I did with the rear part of the chassis.
Also fitted a new full 3" stainless exhaust incl 3" dumppipe. Looks and sounds awesome! The side exit was getting a bit too loud.
Fitted a performance fuel pin and played a bit with the boost comp settings.

Since were taking the 80 on holiday in July I need to do some work to it as I want it to be in top condition.
What I need to do:
-Oil service
-Replace rear upper trailing arms
-Replace lower trailing arm bushes and bend one straight again
-Replace front radius arm bushes
-Refit rear swaybar with all new bushes
-Replace steering pump seals
-Rebuild swivels/knuckles and replace drive flanges and, if the half shafts splines at the diff end are fine, I'll fit new SKF cv's
-Some more minor jobs
Most of the parts have been ordered, still need some bits.

What I want to do:
-Sound proof the rear cargo area for the missus ( I have no rear seats etc)
-Check and set injector pump timing whilst the oil filter is off
-Take a look at the oil level sensor as it's acting up sometimes
-Fit front and rear 4.1 diffs or 4.1 gear sets, but still have not found a decent set.
-Maybe got hands on 3/4 length front runner roofrack, would be ideal for spotlights and spare tire up top for more cargo space inside whilst on the trip.

Some pics will follow

 

[Jamsy]

Thing of beauty!

 

[nielsc]

I did some more work on the 80 lately,
replaced front suspension bushes and fitted rubber castor bushes.
Welded the front right suspension arm bracket AGAIN and made a small strenghtening but I fear it will crack again.

FINALLY after a long time searching found a good 4.1 rear diff, and rebuilt a front one with new bearings that I traded with someone for my 3.7.
About 16 hours of work, lots of swearing and messing around later they were in!
I cracked the front difflock motor because it was rusted to my old diff so need to repair or replace that.
I found the left side copper bush inside the spindle/stub axle had come loose and twisted only after 2 months when it was replaced.
No more low quality parts from euro4x4 for me! 3th time in a row grrrr.

With the 4.1 diffs and automatic gearbox on 35s it drives much much better now!

Also I got myself an early birthday present and traded the 16x8 in and got a set of 16x10 steel just for looks.
This week I need a new place for my CB aerial, not sure if I’ll drill the roof for it, or weld a mount on the bullbar and look at the aerial everytime I drive it ...

 

[clivehorridge]

Nice Niel, like 10” myself... looking good

 

[Shayne]

I'm the same with the CB antenna , i don't want to be looking at it when i drive .......... but the idea of drilling a hole it the roof fills me with remorse . Been telling myself for a long time "you ain't never gonna sell it so why does it matter if it's what you want"

 

[nielsc]

I'm the same with the CB antenna , i don't want to be looking at it when i drive .......... but the idea of drilling a hole it the roof fills me with remorse . Been telling myself for a long time "you ain't never gonna sell it so why does it matter if it's what you want"

I know hahaha
Today I welded a mounting tab on the bullbar and temporarily put the antenna there to see if it bothers me or my co-pilot. It’s only a short stiff antenna so it won’t move alot.

 

[Gary820]

Looks awesome they Should've left the factory lifted on big tyres.

Ref the cb antenna mine is mounted to the front bar and don't notice it when driving, I did at first and even though the 80 isn't a daily drive it's not something that I'm just staring at.

That's what mine is like.

 

[clivehorridge]

Mine’s mounted on the bull bar tab, and I don’t notice it at all.

 

[Josh Tagg]

Mine is mounted on the original Ariel mount, dab radio Ariel is in the screen