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Hello from a wannabe owner

Thanks Guys,
Yer I’ve seen all these cars you have pointed out but there always seems to be something that puts me off. The one Jacob listed looked like it’s sat very funny at the back?
The Colorado’s, erm, I dunno what it is. I think it’s the lack of safety features.

with the Amazons I know miles don’t mean everything but the 120’s, are they just as good when at 200k miles or are they weaker compared to the 100’s?

I can understand how your mate keeps going for discos, Higgy. It’s cos they are so damn cheap and plentiful :icon-biggrin:

still on the hunt, tbh it looks like I’m gonna have to do a couple 400mile runs down “sath” if I’m gonna have any hope.

cheers guys
 
Class— said:
The Colorado’s, erm, I dunno what it is. I think it’s the lack of safety features.
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I know what you mean mate, though it's worth noting that a lot of the Japanese imports do have airbags/ABS. Not sure about if they were standard or not in the UK but they weren't in Australia. Easy way to tell from gumtree/ebay pics is to see how many spokes the steering wheel has - three spokes is no airbags, four is with airbags.
 
Class— said:
with the Amazons I know miles don’t mean everything but the 120’s, are they just as good when at 200k miles or are they weaker compared to the 100’s?s
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Disclaimer - I don't have either of those, but there are plenty examples of the 100 and 120 going 300,000km plus (200,000mi). You're hard pushed to find either with less than 200,000km (120,000mi) here and they seem to be going strong; there are plenty of 120s and 100s still on the road here.
 
Shayne said:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133298156739?ul_noapp=true

This one strikes me as selling because the owner was over optimistic about his budget which is the caution i was trying to impose .
Click to expand...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1992-TOYOTA-LANDCRUISER-80-VX-4-2-TURBO-DIESEL-MANUAL-8-SEATS-Amazon. This will be destined for the breakers if somebody doesn't save it, Same owner since 1995.. Usual MOT stuff, Worth saving i think....... I think i would save it if it wasn't for the fact its 8 million miles from me......... The price is about right, Get it even cheaper waving cash under his nose....
 
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Class— said:
It will simply be my daily in the winter months
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I know your heart says Landcruiser but maybe a rav4 might be a better bet?
Before I bought our Civic I'd almost talked myself into buying a MR2 or a Celiac but tbh I'm glad I didn't.for what you want a Rav4 will be better than any Landcuiser & even a auto 2.2d4d should give you 35 mpg.
90s are now long in the tooth & 120s as has been said are prone to rust & have injector issues.
I can't see an 80 as a viable daily driver for someone who does 500 miles a week unless it's fully sorted.good luck & keep us posted.
 
The suggestion 90's lack safety features convinced me image is the carrot on the stick , my 1998 UK spec 90 has airbags and abs and i'm not sure what the 100 or 120 adds beyond that .

Bearing in mind it will be a daily driver and remain unmodified it only needs to be M.O.T worthy and £350 for Krown rust proofing should stop the rot so i ask what car other than a Landcruiser at that age is likely to keep plodding on for years to come ?

I still think for the given budget the 90 series is the best bet for long term ownership providing you find a good one if only because it has minimal electronics to fail .
 
Shayne said:
The suggestion 90's lack safety features convinced me image is the carrot on the stick , my 1998 UK spec 90 has airbags and abs and i'm not sure what the 100 or 120 adds beyond that.
Click to expand...
Just done some looking into this. Seems all or most of the UK ones do have airbags and ABS plus all the Japanese ones do even the bottom of the range models. Don't know why they made it optional in Australia. Was a $2k option here which after for splashing out $1k on AC and $2k for auto trans most didn't bother with.
 
Hi Guys,
Thanks for all these great replies. Unfortunately work has been so busy the last two weeks Ive had zero time for myself, but I'm here now :D

Higgy said:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1992-TOYOTA-LANDCRUISER-80-VX-4-2-TURBO-DIESEL-MANUAL-8-SEATS-Amazon. This will be destined for the breakers if somebody doesn't save it, Same owner since 1995.. Usual MOT stuff, Worth saving i think....... I think i would save it if it wasn't for the fact its 8 million miles from me......... The price is about right, Get it even cheaper waving cash under his nose....
Click to expand...
Yer this is only 30mins away from me and I spoke to him, nice chap, and he was telling me that it will need welding before its next MOT. Ive knocked the head on that one. As my skill set does not go as far as welding.

Higgy said:
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2473947146205938/ Or this low mileage 24 valve, One lady owner. Had to give up driving it coz she's now in her 80s... If you believe all the nonsense and can get the REG No of him ..Could well be worth a peek
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I'm either too late or due to me not having facebook cos this link doesnt show me a landcruiser.

Shayne said:
The suggestion 90's lack safety features convinced me image is the carrot on the stick , my 1998 UK spec 90 has airbags and abs and i'm not sure what the 100 or 120 adds beyond that .

Bearing in mind it will be a daily driver and remain unmodified it only needs to be M.O.T worthy and £350 for Krown rust proofing should stop the rot so i ask what car other than a Landcruiser at that age is likely to keep plodding on for years to come ?

I still think for the given budget the 90 series is the best bet for long term ownership providing you find a good one if only because it has minimal electronics to fail .
Click to expand...
I guess image is playing a big part of my wants need. As Ive said to my friends, me wanting a LandCruiser isnt necessarily the correct way to go but it is a want :)
Can I ask more about this Krown treatment. Is this the one that is clear and lasts longer than the waxoyl? Do you guys have a preferred guy to carry out the work? I assumed the £350 price is for the Krown stuff itself and not the price for someone to do it for me. I'm just assuming that if you are doing it right you have to remove all rust and then apply?

I have come to realise that I need to change my thought process as my budget just doesnt deliever what I want. Although I said it was for the winter months I still wanted a decent motor to drive and not one of my cars I had as a teenager. You know the ones, the ones where you buy as its cheap and has MOT but once the MOT is out you are prepared to bin it and buy another :)

After going to see some cars I do realise I need to up my budget to at least 10K, this can only happen if I wait and save more or p/x and it becomes my permanent car.

Now for some helpful info I can gleam from you all hopefully. What should I be looking out for when viewing these cars? ( sorry if this is becoming too newbie for anyone but I like to go into basics) Ive noticed the upper rear tailgate seems to suffer from rot around the registration tail lamps and handle. It started to make sense, as when reading all these MOT failures there always seemed to be at least one of these bulbs failing the test.
The spare wheel being stuck seems to be another issue unless ive been doing it wrong?
Leaky sunroofs, seems to be at the front of the sunroof.
Rust at the rear wheel arches.
Is it normal to have 2 or 3 electrical plugs unplugged under the bonnet? You know,as if Toyota just used the same loom for all models and if that model didnt hve the option, then the plug would just be left on regardless?

Also, how do I know the diffs work? Todays test run in an Amazon had the rear diff flash on the dashboard, the mid diff stayed on the dashboard, I assumed the flashing meant it wasnt engaging? I assume with these cars I have to put it in neutral before engaging the diffs or hi and low?

Now on to the AHC (hmm thats not what its called is it? You know, the auto height adjustment.) How is this supposed to work? Todays Amazon would lower but the light on the dashboard would return to Neutral when driving. Is this supposed to happen? I thought it could be lowered and would be better on the motorway?
It would also lift and go to High but again would return to Neutral on the dashboard. Whilst it was lifting i stood outside and watched it. It seemed to go quite high at the front and rear and then drop and inch or two at the rear. is that normal? I just assumed if it was to raise it would stay on High on the dashboard?


Thanks for any replies folks and I hope I’m not boring you to death.

R
 
Most AHC will only work in Hi under about 12mph then yes it would return to normal. The same i guess goes for when you have it in low, I t will always default back to Normal The hi/low settings are only for off road use low gear trailer work/ Heavy loads at low speed Once you get your foot down it will go back to the 'N' position .. Someone correct me if this is nonsense...
 
Higgy is right about the AHC but it reverts at 20mph.

The low setting is not there to reduce drag like the motorway button on Land Rovers. I only find it useful for getting old Gladys in and out of the car.
 
https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/krown-u-k-rustproofing.146618/#post-1425198

First and foremost everything you can see will stood up looking at the truck is secondary , it might look brand new while underneath its rotten .

Get under it with a torch , if it will clean up with a wire brush and some paint then its likely the rest of the truck is worth looking at .

https://www.landcruiserclub.net/com...ll-try-and-keep-this-one.153631/#post-1529707
From what we can see of Paul's truck the frame is all good so its structurally sound and well worth repairing .
 
Jacob100 said:
Higgy is right about the AHC but it reverts at 20mph.

The low setting is not there to reduce drag like the motorway button on Land Rovers. I only find it useful for getting old Gladys in and out of the car.
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I concur, @Higgt is 99.9999999% right.

And, as the old saying goes, 'Look after your AHC and your AHC will look after you'
 
With the diff locks most to be engaged in neutral or very low speed but then you have to go forwards a way to lock them. Sometimes it will take several tens of metres sometimes more. Likewise with unlocking.
 
Don't know much more about the Amazon but owners of them here I've spoken to love them. Still see loads about round here. Love the rear lights on them!
 
Hi Folks,
I see, I miss understood about AHC system as it only stays HI or LOW if I’m under 20mph. I am correct in saying that if I put it up then it should stay up and not show Neutral 10 seconds later if I haven’t moved the car? Same with Low?

That Krown stuff sounds amazing and will be going on my future cars.

The 120’s and 100’s I have test ridden I’m seeing how I like the cars but not the rust they suffer from.
Under much disgust from me my brother is showing me a Disco 3 later and asking me to consider them. We will see :)
 
Class— said:
Hi Folks,
I see, I miss understood about AHC system as it only stays HI or LOW if I’m under 20mph. I am correct in saying that if I put it up then it should stay up and not show Neutral 10 seconds later if I haven’t moved the car? Same with Low?

That Krown stuff sounds amazing and will be going on my future cars.

The 120’s and 100’s I have test ridden I’m seeing how I like the cars but not the rust they suffer from.
Under much disgust from me my brother is showing me a Disco 3 later and asking me to consider them. We will see :)
Click to expand...
N=Normal and is the default AHC postion, you can travel all day in H or L but you must be under 20mph, as soon as you hit 21mph you AHC will default to N whether you like it or not.

Yes, if you put in H or L and wait for the H or L to stop flashing in you Tachometer then switch off the engine and remove you key, the car should stay in H or L until the next time you adjust it or drive ove 20mph, is this as clear as mud :laughing-rolling:

You are correct in saying, "if I put it up then it should stay up and not show Neutral 10 seconds later if I haven’t moved the car? Same with Low", also be aware, all the doors must be closed including tailgate, the bonnet can be open.

Hope this helps. :)
 
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