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Hi & what is this sensor?

WC57

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Aug 20, 2018
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australia
Hi, I recently purchased a November 2002 100 series Sahara & am trying to identify the sensor shown in this pic. It has two green wires coming off it. As you can see one is broken off. I think it has been re-soldered before. The engine still runs, but is lacking power & the engine check light is on.

Toyota want over $750 for a new one (apparently you have to change the whole thing, not just the sensor ) so I will be soldering it back on. However, I was wondering if it can be bypassed but I don't even know what it does...any ideas?

Thanks WC57
 
Ok, sorry...looks like I put the pic in my albums not here. Can I move it?
 
Hi, I’ve no idea what the sensor is but if I were you I’d look for a second hand one or see if it can be removed to the bench. Then get a Dremmel tool and VERY CAREFULLY carve out some of the resin to expose the wire well enough to solder on to it again but this time better. Then mix up some Araldite or other epoxy glue and encapsulate the joint to give it support. JB Weld May be suitable if it’s not conductive which I guess it isn’t. If you can do this and support it well with epoxy I see no reason it should fail again.
 
Yep I think I will have to take it off the vehicle to get a good go at it. Would be nice to know what it does...anyone?
 
The square box is a pre-heater that comes on in very cold weather (no Heater Plugs on these motors). So after cooling the air down in the Inter-cooler you now heat it up again :doh:.

I have something similar, with a removable plug, on my 2001 model and my guess is that its an "Incoming air temperature sensor" as there is something similar on the other side of the heater block presumably for "Out-going air temp".

That's my guess anyway :icon-wink:.

Bob.
 
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I think it's the venturi with the throttle.
https://toyota-europe.epc-data.com/land_cruiser/hdj100r/8926/engine/2606/26100/
260100A.png
 
Yep. A switch not a sensor. Probably makes contact when the throttle is fully open. Could easily be tested with a multimeter set for continuity and move the throttle to fully open and back again.
 
Thanks for the feedback. My plan is to try & fix it this weekend. I will test it first & let you know what I find. Luckily I still have my trusty 80 series to run around in until this one is sorted. So far I have blocked off the EGR & put a catch can on (that might have been when I bumped the wire & later it broke completely.

Regards Bruce
 
This possibly sets the throttle position so the ECU knows where it is by opening it to full and hitting the switch then it’s knows the pulses back to closed on the stepper Motor.

Have you checked what codes are stored with a scan tool like Techstream?
 
Well I got it fixed this morning. I pulled it off & got a good solder on the broken wire...I will put some silastic or similar around both wires in case it gets bumped again.

It is a switch & works with the air shutoff valve. It is in the closed position when the valve is fully open i.e. engine running, & in the open position for a few seconds when the valve closes & the engine stops.

I think if the wire was to brake when you were out bush, it would be ok just to bridge the two wires together as I imagine all it is doing is telling the ECU that the shut off valve is fully open.

Thanks again for your help, now on to the next issue....a second fuel filter that has a broken mount.
Regards Bruce
 
Nice one Bruce, glad you got it sorted. Not sure what Silastic is but guessing silicone. This will probably be ok but some sort of epoxy would be better as it’s solid and more supportive.

Has it now lost the CEL and is it now running better?

Good luck with the broken mount.
 
Yep, CEL light is off & running fine again. The wire has repaired a few times...but never properly. The first time it happened to me was just after I had paid the seller all my hard earned $$ (after test drive, inspection etc) & was driving off in it. I turned back around & he knew straight away what the problem was. He called an auto sparky that he uses who came around & re-soldered it for us but his soldering iron was pretty much of gas so I kind of new it hadn't stuck very well.
 
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