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HJ60 only starts second try with key.need help.

kombivan

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Oct 6, 2017
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australia
When I go to start it it starts and when I let go of the key it shuts down straight away. Then if I retry it starts and runs without problem. I have put a new module in the bottom of the pillar and all the rust in the pillar and planitary chamber has been removed so it doesn't leak water again. The rod from the ettic motor (engine control unit) was around the wrong way and it starts more frequently first try when warm but not when cold there is only 40,000ks on this engine full rebuild almost like a new engine. I have no idea why it cuts out on first start then starts on the second turn of the key would appreciate any help.

2h engine
 
The start situation is directly connected to the Edic unit which also monitors oil pressure - insufficient and it turns the engine off. I don't have an Edic on my 2H but when starting I do not give it any throttle until the oil pressure registers on the gauge.
By the time you start it for the second time you have some residual oil pressure from the first attempt and IMO the system is protecting your engine because once warm it starts first time.

Regards,

Rodger
 
The start situation is directly connected to the Edic unit which also monitors oil pressure - insufficient and it turns the engine off. I don't have an Edic on my 2H but when starting I do not give it any throttle until the oil pressure registers on the gauge.
By the time you start it for the second time you have some residual oil pressure from the first attempt and IMO the system is protecting your engine because once warm it starts first time.

Regards,

Rodger
Thanks Rodger but I have found today my problem is with the length of the adjustable rod between ettic motor and fuel pump because of wear over time the rod needed making a bit shorter and now it starts properly each time. I read about the oil pressure switch last night and ruled that out as if I turned the key on twice before turning the engine over it would start no issues. I also checked the ignition relay as well. It was fine. SO length of the Rod to shut off lever was the culprit I will also now grease these linkages more frequently as well.
 
Looks like you may be correct Rodger as it's started only starting second key so Isn't there somthing that keeps the pressure up to the oil pressure switch or could it be the type of oil filter or the ball flow valve not functioning properly just hear the oil filter with the slotted head?
 
Looks like you may be correct Rodger as it's started only starting second key so Isn't there somthing that keeps the pressure up to the oil pressure switch or could it be the type of oil filter or the ball flow valve not functioning properly just hear the oil filter with the slotted head?
But can't be the oil switch because if I turn key to ing then off and back on to start it starts and runs even if cold?
Could it be a faulty ignition switch possibly?
When mine shagged it's engine it started fine despite almost no oil pressuree

I only have about 40,000k's on my engine all new.
 
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There should be three positions for the EDIC lever. When the engine is running, it is in the center "drive"position. While starting, it should be in the "over injection" position, 47,5° from the drive position, away from the injection pump. It is fair to assume that if this position is not correctly set, the engine will have difficulty starting or may stop after starting.
The third position is the "stop" position 47,5° towards the injection pump from the drive position. Turning off the ignition will set this position. However, once the engine is started and the oil pressure lamp went off, the EDIC will stop the engine once the oil pressure becomes low again in order to protect the engine. This can be tested by grounding the oil pressure signal with running engine. I have seen cases where the oil pressure lamp goes off after starting but lights up again for a very short time immediately after that. This could trigger the EDIC to stop the engine. I assume this is caused by oil slowly flowing down out of the filter when the engine is stopped. This would explain why the problem only occurs when engine is cold.
You could easily test any of these theories by mechanically disconnecting the EDIC and having an assistant play for EDIC manually.
 
There should be three positions for the EDIC lever. When the engine is running, it is in the center "drive"position. While starting, it should be in the "over injection" position, 47,5° from the drive position, away from the injection pump. It is fair to assume that if this position is not correctly set, the engine will have difficulty starting or may stop after starting.
The third position is the "stop" position 47,5° towards the injection pump from the drive position. Turning off the ignition will set this position. However, once the engine is started and the oil pressure lamp went off, the EDIC will stop the engine once the oil pressure becomes low again in order to protect the engine. This can be tested by grounding the oil pressure signal with running engine. I have seen cases where the oil pressure lamp goes off after starting but lights up again for a very short time immediately after that. This could trigger the EDIC to stop the engine. I assume this is caused by oil slowly flowing down out of the filter when the engine is stopped. This would explain why the problem only occurs when engine is cold.
You could easily test any of these theories by mechanically disconnecting the EDIC and having an assistant play for EDIC manually.
I know what to adjust again thanks.
 
Does anyone have a spare EDIC - shut off lever linkage for a 2h engine that isn't elongated in the holes. (Worn)

Revision.........
Don't need one now I found a perished O-ring in lift pump.
 
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Thank You Peter C. You had the correct solution now I need a new linkage as mine is worn from age and lack of lube.
 
Never realised they needed lube, will introduce that to my service schedule :thumbup:
 
Neither did I a lithium based grease would do the job really thick stuff.
 
Finally got it adjusted correctly starts and stops very fiddly setting it up must have changed it 6 different times.
 
Well it started playing up again and today I fixed the oil pressure gauge think it was either the 82 didn't like 86 gauges or the 86 gauges didn't like the ecu both sets of gauges didn't like the new oil pressure switch so the old one went in the old dash gauges went in and I got a new ecu when the gauge started playing up so ecu gauges and oil pressure switch are 1982 now and I have really good oil pressure and the engine starts first kick now and stays running hope it does it again tomorrow.
 
Found out today this could be a bad sealing lift pump when it was in the shop some time ago employees tried to bleed it and has not been right since then so I have a kit and pump coming. might do a bit more up top then.
 
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Was the o-ring on the top Plunger that you pump up and down it was perished so had to push out the pin holding the top of plunger on remove spring and remove remains of O-ring clean up (Lucky I got a box of O-rings at a garage sale) and replace o-ring put knob back on plunger and push pin home then I had an orgasm when she fired up after bleeding and didn't cut out I let it sit a while kicked her in the guts again She fired up no throttle and kept running that was 2nd orgasm for the day I'm so happy 2 years to find that o-ring. Moral of the story is I will forget the lift pump exists and only bleed at the injectors like I always did in the past. Next thing needs doing is to drain the water trap have not looked at that since 2007.


I LOVE THIS POST. (If i had a like button for my own post I would have used it.)
 
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Hello again Diesel owners as you can see above I fixed this car with a cheap primer pump. I then changed the fuel filter and had to re-prime the diesel engine and it started not starting first kick again so I have been chewing this over for a few weeks trying to think what was wrong then it hit me, it was doing the exact same thing as before. So today I changed the lift pump again, this time I put the old one back in with new o-rings etc and it seems to be doing the job. n the morning I will test start it. Now I've written this up to show the difference between quality primer pumps and cheap and nasty chinese rubbish.
 
STILL HAD AN ISSUE WITH STARTING SO i REPLACED THE RYCO FUEL FILTER (BRAND NEW) WITH A COOPERS ONE AND NOW IT STARTS BEAUTIFUL.

Might even have a bit more power now that its not leaking at the seal of the filter.
 
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