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How to install a generic wireless remote key system

Matt Wright

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May 26, 2010
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I found all sorts of helpful information on my trail to getting this working. All to date was either plain incorrect or lacked key bits of information which rendered it useless. The FSM is helpful to a point but what's always missing is the direct link between the new solution and the existing. But it's easy so here goes :

Tools needed:
Large phillips screwdriver for removing the door panel
Flat head screwdriver for removing the plastic rivits that don't always come out
Side cutters
Wire stripper

Parts needed:
5 Connector strips
2 long Cable ties
Plastic bag / DIY waterproofing solution for the transmitter box
Generic Wireless remote kit (transmitter box, wiring loom, key fobs)
I used this one bought on eBay for a whopping £19 incl postage. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/55075-Univers ... 1025698880
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Very happy with the way the system works, response is instant and more powerful than when I use the key. Range is a good 20m plus. Haven't tested it further.
The key blades can and will be cut to fit the Toyota lock. An alternative is to take Toyota blades already cut to your cehicle and insert them in to the fob. There are 2 small screws that hold the blade in. Have a look when you get your kit..
What's really nice is thaty it's a key and fob in 1 unit and they're the same as the VW Golf 6 keys and were the best of the lot I could see on eBay.. UK seller too

Goal:
Connect wireless key box to enable door lock and unlock
This does not include wiring in the indicators to flash when you do this. They're the orange wires but I'll do that another day
This has no links to any alarm system

Notes:
You can tap in to the control box in the drivers foot well, but it is very difficult working in there and I couldn't find the correct wires. There's also no slack on the wires hence why I did it this way. Not sure if it's correct but it works 100%. If we had an expert they may have a better way.. This worked for me. (nothing's blown up!)

The 80 series and I guess most other older Toyotas are NEGATIVE charge locking systems. ie a negative voltage change triggers the locking mechanism.
Do NOT cut the small wire sticking out of the control box for the "pneumatic system"
You only need 6 of the wires in the loom, the others can hang free / be cut off / cable tied up

Method:
Pop up and off the door / electric window control
Remove drivers door panel
- 1 screw on the handle, 2 under the arm rest - pop it off
- Mine was full of old oil, slime, grime, mud, water, rust etc. Clean it up if you can as I got coated in grease whilst getting the wire looms out of their securing points
Attach power to the wireless control box:
- Locate drivers door locking control box (pale green)
- Use multi meter to check that you have the correct pins by testing for 12V between the BLUE and WHITE with thin BLACK STRIPED wires (see pic)
If you have 12V, cut in to each and insert a strip connector with the wires from the wireless box. I had to use 2 strip connectors with a connecting wire to join the 2 to get clean connections. There are 5 wires fighting to get inside 1 connector otherwise. So it's 2 connector strips for the - and 1 for the +

Wires are :
****
Positive BLUE Toyota wire goes to the RED Wireless box wiring loom
Negative WHITE with thin BLACK STRIPED Toyota wire goes to the BLACK and the YELLOW and YELLOW with black striped wires on the Wireless box wiring loom
****

Now you should have power to the wireless box. Press the buttons on your key fobs to test - you should hear a click which means it's working. If you don't, double check connections and that you're tapped in to the correct wires

Next is to tap in to the OPEN and CLOSE wires in the door.
I tested using the correct pins as per the OEM on the loom where the control box connects and then traced the wires physically back to the wiring loom.
*** Note, you can do this easily, if you do come across a situation where it starts opening and immediately closing then open and close the doors using the key in the outside drivers door lock. That resets the current in the system

Check you have the same wires that I had and then test the locking mechanism by disconnecting the drivers door locking panel
You need to have an earth connection attached to Pins 1 and 2 at all times and then 3 OR 4 for lock, unlock (can't remember which was which)
I used connector strips to combine the 3 wires from the wireless control box, an earth from the battery and then 2 wires that I stuck in to Pins 1 and 2.
You then need an earth connection applied to pin 3 or 4
I plugged the open / close wires from the wireless box in to pins 3 and 4 respectively. These are the WHITE and WHITE with thin BLACK striped wires (sorry can't remember which was which but it'll be an easy test to figure it out)
Then press the remote door fob and you should get a lock/unlock response.
Once you've confirmed which is which, you need to trace to a suitable position where you can cut in to the lock and unlock wires and attach your loom lock/unlock wires
I cut in to the loom about 10cm away from where the 2 door looms meet - you'll see this.. Anywhere that doesn't interfere with putting the door panel back on.

Wires are:
****
THIN BLUE with BROWN rings Toyota wire goes to WHITE Wireless connector wire
THIN BLUE with small YELLOW ring Toyota wire goes to the WHITE with thin BLACK striped WHITE Wireless connector wire
****

Test it works by first locking/unlocking with the door key
Then try your wireless fobs
* Make sure you have good batteries in the fobs. I had 1 dud and it caused all sorts of troubleshooting issues as I had inconsistent results!

If that works, the last step is to wrap up the wireless box to keep it dry. I used a Tesco packet :D Then wrap one cable tie around the box securely
Then push the aerial up through the door holes (see pic or whatever works for you) and then cable tie the box inside the door using one of the holes in the door (see pic)

Pop the door panel back on and you're done

Sorry for the minute detail, but it's not so easy getting to the right place when you have multiple maps, all that are incorrect!! so hope this helps..

It really should take 20 minutes
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Re: Hot to install a generic wireless remote key system

Nice write up...thanks for that....now my install won't take me nearly as long as it would have done.. :thumbup:
 
Re: Hot to install a generic wireless remote key system

This reminds me, I really need to sort my central locking. I haven't got remote central locking so I'll look to do this too! Many thanks for posting!
 
Re: Hot to install a generic wireless remote key system

can you give us a make and model you got, I went to the eBay link but it says it is no londer availabile.
 
Re: Hot to install a generic wireless remote key system

You're a star, I'm doing mine in the next few weeks :clap:
 
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Getting closer to my install...only one question.

Looking at the wiring diagram on e-bay...there is a green wire (at the bottom of the control box), marked as "negative power window output"....anyone know if this can be used to auto power the windows up when you lock the car???
 
Done mine, works a treat. :thumbup:
Had to order some new Lexus blades off of the bay, which took 4 weeks to arrive, but local key guy cut the blades to the toyota key, and I love it.

I mounted my control box in the wing, by drivers foot, and ran a couple of new wires into the door space.

Have you connected your flashers yet Matt?
And if so, to what wires?

I thought? that I might connect to the repeater lights, and then all of them would flash?? :think:
 
Big thumbs up :) nicely done
I haven't connected the indicator lights but I guess I should seeing as I've done everything else I can. I'll have a go tomorrow..
 
I realise this is really old, but wondering if anyone got the indicator lights flashing? I have an Aussie 100 series and this helped me connect an aftermarket unit to where the original Toyota unit was, but can't get the indicators to flash.
 
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