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Injector pump leak

Crabby

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Nov 5, 2017
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uk
So.....got my hands full at the moment...moving house in a few days...MOT due in a few days...And just sprung an injector leak. Marvellous. Just 2-3 drips when stopped, but probably enough to make Mr MOT man no happy.

I'm fairly new to the Landcruiser and the 1 HDT (93' HDJ 81), so to hopefully save
IMAG5368.jpg
some time and possibly a headache, over to the lads who know.....what injector pump, and best place to get rebuild/seal kit thanks.
 
Overland cruisers use RVS in Swindon - it would be worth having a chat with them.

From my understanding an injector pump isn't something you really want to pull apart yourself if it's leaking from an internal seal. I haven't seen many of these leaking on here so not sure if there is a common fix.
 
Thanks, but Swindon a little far for me...I'm at Newcastle Tyne & Wear!

Take it to a garage they'll suck through their teeth and give you the bad news £££££££...... (I'm ex mechanic from 25 years back...) Just need to know what you're doing, and have a pump make, model, and seal kit.....
 
Best bet then will be to give this guy a call to see what Toyota offer in terms of a seal kit:

Simon Holton:
01604 788303
[email protected]

Mention this forum and he will look after you.

With SVS i'm sure you could just courier your pump to them if need be
 
Find out exactly where on the pump it's leaking from then post the result and a fix will be forthcoming.
 
Sorry Grant, understand it looks like I had a blonde moment not thinking of sending pump, but hadn't made clear I wasn't going to take the pump off for the sake of what looks like a high pressure line seal. Therefore long way to Swindon!

Frank..as I've just said above, looks like high pressure, but hard to be certain when covered in crap as usual. I'd assumed rebuild kit would be complete with all seals, hence why I wasn't more specific, cheers.
 
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Does the pump have the Auto Cold Start Device with the thermo wax plunger connected to the cooling system? It’s difficult to see in the photo and I’m not sure if the 1 HD-t had it or not but if it does and the leak is from this then the whole ACSD mechanism can be removed and a blanking plate fitted without affecting the (hot) running of the engine.
 
ACSD..Don't recall, in a bit of a hurry when I looked. Will take a look in the morning. I have plenty of ally about to make blank... Does it change timing when warm, and therefore need timing done when removed? Or change timing when cold, and just requires a little tickle till warm after removal? If you get my meaning....!
Removal and one less thing to go wrong always appeals to me.....
 
ACSD..Don't recall, in a bit of a hurry when I looked. Will take a look in the morning. I have plenty of ally about to make blank... Does it change timing when warm, and therefore need timing done when removed? Or change timing when cold, and just requires a little tickle till warm after removal? If you get my meaning....!
Removal and one less thing to go wrong always appeals to me.....


ACSD advances the pump timing when cold and also opens the throttle slightly to give a fast idle. As the engine warms the timing gradually returns to normal. I removed mine after it developed a leak and I just use the hand throttle under the dash to hold a fast idle for the first few minutes. I actually repaired the ACSD mech with new seals but never bothered to replace it.
I picked up a blanking plate from a local diesel pump specialist for free as he’d had some lying around for ages.
 
Confirmed the timing with engine hot will be correct if the ACSD is removed. First of all locate the leak. There are 6 high pressure outlet pipes none with seals.
 
P.S. If it's a high pressure leak it will be more obvious perhaps with the engine running so that fuel is running through the leak. It might appear as a drip or mist. There are 6 unions screwed in to the pump with no seals and they must be tight. Unusual to have a leak on these. There are the corresponding 6 sleeve nuts on the injector pipes again no seals but they need to be tight. Another possibility is a split injector pipe especially if the engine has been running without the anti vibration clips on the pipes.
 
Grabby diesel pumps are very sensitive and leaks are pretty uncommon from what I’ve seen. What I do know is that you really need to know what your doing.

My fuel pump seals and other bits have been changed before still not running right. Even my mechanic tuning it only yielded mild results still not running as Mr T intended.

For this We’re going to take it off with the 6 injectors and give it into Denso here in the city next week.

They’ll access how it’s running and then put it back to stock on the dyno running it for many hours. Not sure if cost as yet but fingers crossed. Will do a write up on it.

All the best
 
So I haven't been able to update on this being so busy moving etc...and not explaining myself clearly just as the wife loves to point out...

Yes, being a 6 cylinder, there are 6 high pressure lines. Yes, they should be tight, I'll take that with a pinch of salt..! Being more precise, it looks like a leak from from one of the delivery valves which apparently do have seals, that attaches of course to one of the high pressure lines. Which of course don't have seals.
Also, the reason why I had trouble locating the leak. .. I appear to have 3!! A weep on one of the delivery valves. A weep on the distributor. And a proper leak on the fuel cut off solenoid.
The original question I asked, which was what pump is this.. After finally digging in there, it's VE6/12F2100RND861. I have now sourced a full seal kit.
I'm not a diesel man. Used to build drag bike engines so know the difference between an open end and a ring...
I'll agree if I was looking at a pump rebuild, I'd hand it to someone else. But a few seals I'll sort myself. I AM having trouble finding how to release fuel pressure on the 80 before disassembly anyone?
 
So I haven't been able to update on this being so busy moving etc...and not explaining myself clearly just as the wife loves to point out...

Yes, being a 6 cylinder, there are 6 high pressure lines. Yes, they should be tight, I'll take that with a pinch of salt..! Being more precise, it looks like a leak from from one of the delivery valves which apparently do have seals, that attaches of course to one of the high pressure lines. Which of course don't have seals.
Also, the reason why I had trouble locating the leak. .. I appear to have 3!! A weep on one of the delivery valves. A weep on the distributor. And a proper leak on the fuel cut off solenoid.
The original question I asked, which was what pump is this.. After finally digging in there, it's VE6/12F2100RND861. I have now sourced a full seal kit.
I'm not a diesel man. Used to build drag bike engines so know the difference between an open end and a ring...
I'll agree if I was looking at a pump rebuild, I'd hand it to someone else. But a few seals I'll sort myself. I AM having trouble finding how to release fuel pressure on the 80 before disassembly anyone?

Grabby I personally took my fuel pump off recently for a overhaul service and didn't experience any fuel pressure. Just undone all the connections but most importantly had to align the crank after taking off the main belt. This I did cranking over the engine to align before taking off the battery terminals.

View attachment 142246

fullsizeoutput_11e.jpeg
 
To release pressure you undo a nut and a drip comes out, then onto the next. What you have to bear in mind is that the fuel system will be damaged if so much as a grain of dust enters so you have to be scrupulously clean which isn’t always easy especially when working on the truck. It might be easier to remove the intake manifold complete with pipes and cover pipe ends and injector and Delivery valve threads as you go. Caps are available to do this. Then scrub up around the work area to the ‘n’th degree, if it was me I would also put clean plastic around the bonnet so that nothing from that could drop in there.

When you take out your delivery valves could you post up some detailed pictures of them as I’m going to change mine this year. :thumbup:
 
Grabby I personally took my fuel pump off recently for a overhaul service and didn't experience any fuel pressure. Just undone all the connections but most importantly had to align the crank after taking off the main belt.

View attachment 142246
It’s even better to align the pulleys to the timing marks before removing the belt as it all moves as it should in sync.
 
Cheers lads. I'll take the crack a nut and let it drip approach. The more you look into it, the more you're made to feel cracking anything on the high pressure end will have diesel put your eye out on the way to hitting the back of your skull!
Pictures I will take. :thumbup:
 
Cheers lads. I'll take the crack a nut and let it drip approach. The more you look into it, the more you're made to feel cracking anything on the high pressure end will have diesel put your eye out on the way to hitting the back of your skull!
Pictures I will take. :thumbup:
Yes, there’s high pressures involved and yes caution is advised (safety specs would not be a silly idea here) but especially with the engine off we are talking about tiny amounts of fuel here and a long path for it to get out by which time it appears as a weep more than anything. It’s an acceptable diagnostic step to crack open an injector line in order to find a bad cylinder/injector or such. If this were an hydraulic machine at such pressures with a lot of flow possible then much more caution would be needed as oil can be injected into tissue or even cut with nasty consequences. But that’s not going to happen here. Wise to ask and be cautious if you don’t know though so we’ll done for that.
 
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