iwan's 70's!

[Beau]

Regarding the rocket cover, you could also trim the "hump" in them and just seal it back with some sheet metal. Won't look too bad once painted. Seen it done before.

 

[Iwan]

Regarding the rocket cover, you could also trim the "hump" in them and just seal it back with some sheet metal. Won't look too bad once painted. Seen it done before.

Hi Beau.. I was lucky in the end that I managed to get hold of the rest of the square light front end which is not so pointy towards the radiator end like the round light front. So it was a standard fitment in the end!

 

[Iwan]

Had the problem of the missing driverside inner wing. So all I had was these so had to make the best of them!

Chose the bundera one as it was a bit better than the other. Suprisingly the redder rusty section I used was very thick and it turned out quite a solid inner wing.

And ready to fit after a good hit with the shultz gun

A bit more sealing

A real good original to the body front panel before sealing

I bought this chinese alloy radiator which is for a hzj75 etc and its the perfect size.. used the radiator brackets off a kzj71 works well... also 80 series radiator side brackets are a close second to use for this job! The bundera fan shroud there just doesn't work!

New vented discs and hilux surf calipers! Nice picture showing great progress!

Bit of help from the 81 to get it going! It's a nice sight to see the front all in. Standing proud!

 

[Iwan]

A few pictures of the 71 body when off the chassis.

She's a beut!

A few dents but thats character!

Chassis loaded up with 80 series front springs all round!

The 71 in its original form! The 2lt e driven with a knackered head and seized!

When my mate bought it to break... I knew that the body had soo much potential! So we made a deal!

 

[Ben Stratford]

Well saved Iwan, a stroke of luck too at such a good price. Looks stonking now

 

[clivehorridge]

What a transformation Iwan, looking the business ... dare I say tidy?

 

[tonytoyota]

Hi Iwan looking good r you ok .

 

[Ben]

Great work.

 

[Iwan]

Well saved Iwan, a stroke of luck too at such a good price. Looks stonking now

Hey thanks Ben.. been a long project had to check back in march 2013! There was quite a lot of chopping and changing as different parts came along! But for some thing that's a complete mix of parts from hilux's, 90 series engine, some 60 and a few 80 series bits on it in the end! Toyota's of a certain age span are great as the components are interchangeable to a certain degree! Glad you like it mate

What a transformation Iwan, looking the business ... dare I say tidy?

Haha Clive.... I literally made it in the end! I've got some pictures of paintwork coming up! But once again I have a rust free Cruiser!

Hi Iwan looking good r you ok .

Cheers Tony! I remember when you came here with your mate and were listening to the motor and exhaust tone! Sweeeet I remember you saying!

Great work.

Cheers mate! Been real good being back in the saddle of a 1kzt 70. It's had a hell of a good shakedown now. Only niggles are the exhaust works it's way loose occasionally and if you leave it for a few days the 80 series fuel filter head lets a bit of air in! All good!

As it's snowing heavy here... will add a few more pics shortly!

 

[Iwan]

I fitted this mechanical fuel pump to my year 2000 1kzte and it's from a daihatsu fourtrack. A denso pump but it has a rather small 9mm plunger in it. As said before but not really enough detail about it.

It fits on the 1kz perfectly but you have to remove the AHSC unit as the pump was designated to fit on the other side of the engine on the daihatsu 2.8td and it prevents you from fitting it to the 1kz. You have to switch and grind a bit off the throttle link as it pulls on the daihatsu and pushes on the toyota.

I set the pump up to 1.57 plunger stroke and I've found that gets the sweet spot on the pump advance/retard

Because I've only got a 9mm plunger and have read about hybrid pumps being setup. I've been fiddling with the 12mm e pump to extract the best bits to make the daihatsu pump more to spec with the 12mm 1kzt pump. The juicy parts are the high rise cam plate, the 4 rollers on the top left and the 12mm plunger sleave, plunger, springs washers and top plate.

This is how it is set up inside the e pump. The round part on the center at the bottom is a pressure advance/retard that adjusts just that as you rev the engine the pressure adjusts the stationary plate/drum that the rollers are sat in.

If your looking to manualise your 1kzte engine you want a VE4 then the higher the number the better but VE4 12 pumps arent on many engines. Then most importantly you need a RND pump which is designated for the front of the engine. If you see a LND then it is for the back of the engine run from the flywheel side, so it is designated to run in the other direction. It's been a while since I've looked into that but I believe that to be correct!

This is the problem... you have the 12mm plunger in the middle and then the sleave. Between the sleave and the body there's a really hard to remove C clip! I have bent and broken pick kits, then you get 2 small screw drivers in there they bend and the clip just clips back into place! Last summer sitting in the sun on many occasions and no joy!

Quite a fiddle to get the throttle linkages setup.. I think I used the modified setup from an auto hj60 which tonytoyota gave me, a link bar off an 80 and the cable off a bundera! Not exactly pretty but fully functional!

So it's still running off a 9mm plunger pump. But it goes like stink and can do 95mph it's a bit under fueled when you have a really heavy trailer on the hills! Be real good to get that C clip out tho!

 

[Shayne]

This needs wider axles mate and then you would have a real stonker

 

[Iwan]

Haha Shayne! I wreckon a 60 front and a 80 rear, both 9.5" diffs and wider! Good call mate and that truck was my inspiration to complete this one!

 

[chapel gate]

View attachment 141042
I fitted this mechanical fuel pump to my year 2000 1kzte and it's from a daihatsu fourtrack. A denso pump but it has a rather small 9mm plunger in it. As said before but not really enough detail about it.
View attachment 141046
It fits on the 1kz perfectly but you have to remove the AHSC unit as the pump was designated to fit on the other side of the engine on the daihatsu 2.8td and it prevents you from fitting it to the 1kz. You have to switch and grind a bit off the throttle link as it pulls on the daihatsu and pushes on the toyota.
View attachment 141047
I set the pump up to 1.57 plunger stroke and I've found that gets the sweet spot on the pump advance/retard
View attachment 141048
Because I've only got a 9mm plunger and have read about hybrid pumps being setup. I've been fiddling with the 12mm e pump to extract the best bits to make the daihatsu pump more to spec with the 12mm 1kzt pump. The juicy parts are the high rise cam plate, the 4 rollers on the top left and the 12mm plunger sleave, plunger, springs washers and top plate.
View attachment 141049
This is how it is set up inside the e pump. The round part on the center at the bottom is a pressure advance/retard that adjusts just that as you rev the engine the pressure adjusts the stationary plate/drum that the rollers are sat in.
View attachment 141050
If your looking to manualise your 1kzte engine you want a VE4 then the higher the number the better but VE4 12 pumps arent on many engines. Then most importantly you need a RND pump which is designated for the front of the engine. If you see a LND then it is for the back of the engine run from the flywheel side, so it is designated to run in the other direction. It's been a while since I've looked into that but I believe that to be correct!
View attachment 141051
This is the problem... you have the 12mm plunger in the middle and then the sleave. Between the sleave and the body there's a really hard to remove C clip! I have bent and broken pick kits, then you get 2 small screw drivers in there they bend and the clip just clips back into place! Last summer sitting in the sun on many occasions and no joy!
View attachment 141052
Quite a fiddle to get the throttle linkages setup.. I think I used the modified setup from an auto hj60 which tonytoyota gave me, a link bar off an 80 and the cable off a bundera! Not exactly pretty but fully functional!
View attachment 141053
So it's still running off a 9mm plunger pump. But it goes like stink and can do 95mph it's a bit under fueled when you have a really heavy trailer on the hills! Be real good to get that C clip out tho!

Some in depth work there, well done.

 

[Iwan]

Some in depth work there, well done.

Cheers man! It's a good thing for someone in the same situation to read.. it's just my experience and view on it. But when I first looked into those e pumps I was quite surprised that there's not a lot more left in it after you are able to take the necessary pieces out of it! So why are the replacement new e pumps over a 1000 pounds???? My mind boggles because after I go in there, it WILL be an empty case and a load of worthless sensors! IMO! (to me anyway!)

 

[Ben Stratford]

Utter gobbledegook Iwan but looks like a great and cunning result. Well done mate.

 

[Beau]

Good info regarding the pump. If you become an expert and start making hybrid pumps there's a market for them. Those NZ guys are selling them around $1200 usd a piece and want your pump as a core too.

Have you looked into the 2lte mechanical pumps to see if they can be converted to work. They're a lot more popular. Regarding the VE4/12 pumps, what's the difference between the models?

 

[Iwan]

Good info regarding the pump. If you become an expert and start making hybrid pumps there's a market for them. Those NZ guys are selling them around $1200 usd a piece and want your pump as a core too.

Have you looked into the 2lte mechanical pumps to see if they can be converted to work. They're a lot more popular. Regarding the VE4/12 pumps, what's the difference between the models?

Thanks mate! Yes it takes a lot of research, trial and error! I really like to beat the electronics! It's a pretty big challenge to get the C clip out of the e pump. Also a shame that the place that the spill control valve fits is raised and a different thread to the manual stop solenoid. If it was the same then you could just bolt on the distribution head with the 12mm plunger in it. Looks a pricey job to get one from NZ especially when your running on a budget!

There's quite a few Chinese 12mm distribution heads but am a bit dubious as to the quality etc. But that's the ultimate solution with the e camplate and rollers etc.

With the VE4/12mm pumps I've only managed to find 1kzt, 14bt and a big Isuzu engine that have this so they all seem really rare pumps to get.

Here's the difference in the plunger size 10mm and it shows the tight area the stop solenoid is where the spill valve is situated.

This is from a toyota carina! 10mm really cheap off ebay.

This pump is off a uk toyota estima lucida 3ct 10mm again! Perfect fit and had the correct throttle linkages... timed up to 1.57 again. Thing I've come to realise is that these are old engines now and it will help them to run longer being slightly under fueled. The 12mm pumps can deliver soo much fuel that the heads will eventually go. Which is a shame.

And it's fitted to lil blues engine! It's also fitted to my favourite red 70!
Really itching to get the body off and seal up the underside, clean up the chassis and axles then a full respray back to original! Hence the reason for changing the thread title so it will carry on the thread!

 

[Beau]

Interesting stuff for sure. I have a VE4/12 Pump with me, it's a spare pump I brought to the states with me, but it's a electronic one, not manual. Is this normal then? I'll have to see the number on my actual pump.

What's the possibility in re-threading the solenoid seat to adapt the manual solenoid to work?

I would have totally experimented more on building a hybrid pump myself but I have a auto trans and I've read it can be difficult to fine tune it with a manual pump. Could look into a stand alone trans ECU but that's more $$$ I'd rather spend elsewhere!

On a side note, have you ever ran one of these with the actual designated 1KZT Manual pumps to see how they compare with your hybrid builds?

 

[Ben]

Great work and great info Iwan, that will help a lot of people out.

Hope you dont mind but I've shared a link to this thread on the Toyota Bundera Australia facebook page that I'm on. Its a really active group with members all over the world and the information and pics you have posted will prove extremely valuable to a lot of people!

The 1KZ-TE is an extremely popular conversion but getting a manual fuel pump for one is a costly affair. Over here lots of Hilux guys spend thousands from the only company I have found in OZ offering new manual pumps, or they spend slightly less sending their 2lt pump off to NZ for conversion. Both options are extremely costly, so a cheaper solution needs to be found and I think you have nailed it!

 

[Iwan]

Interesting stuff for sure. I have a VE4/12 Pump with me, it's a spare pump I brought to the states with me, but it's a electronic one, not manual. Is this normal then? I'll have to see the number on my actual pump.

What's the possibility in re-threading the solenoid seat to adapt the manual solenoid to work?

I would have totally experimented more on building a hybrid pump myself but I have a auto trans and I've read it can be difficult to fine tune it with a manual pump. Could look into a stand alone trans ECU but that's more $$$ I'd rather spend elsewhere!

On a side note, have you ever ran one of these with the actual designated 1KZT Manual pumps to see how they compare with your hybrid builds?

Yeah your's will be same as your spare one... 2lte will have the 10mm equivalent. I looked at the spill valve to stop solenoid plug thread but it was a little out of my comfort zone! I do know a great machinist so that's not out of the picture... but the stop solenoid would have to be set really low somehow.

I fitted a 4 runner 1kzt into my first 70 back in 2009 and it quite frankly flew. Being younger the fuel was opened up too much and on the motorway there wasn't enough digits on the speedo! Definitely off the clock!lol The head cracked in the end miss firing on tickover but if you took the radiator cap off then it would run correctly! So a direct lesson to keep in mind with these!

I got and ran the kzj71 with the e system a while back.... quite frankly a smoother sweeter but lacked the RAWNESS of the mechanical.. obviously nice but not as good. The radiator if original needs to be looked at on these as it went and then the head went! Was a rusty truck and ended up as parts unfortunately too many cons and not enough pros!

Great work and great info Iwan, that will help a lot of people out.

Hope you dont mind but I've shared a link to this thread on the Toyota Bundera Australia facebook page that I'm on. Its a really active group with members all over the world and the information and pics you have posted will prove extremely valuable to a lot of people!

The 1KZ-TE is an extremely popular conversion but getting a manual fuel pump for one is a costly affair. Over here lots of Hilux guys spend thousands from the only company I have found in OZ offering new manual pumps, or they spend slightly less sending their 2lt pump off to NZ for conversion. Both options are extremely costly, so a cheaper solution needs to be found and I think you have nailed it!

Yo mate! To share what works and sometimes what doesn't is a good thing man! No worries at all to further share, the more who know the better! After paying for or paying off for a 1kzte, like you say to take another hit by sorting out the manual pump is a right PITA. Especially when your building a truck cause the money can be spent on many other parts etc and living! I have seen quite a few different vehicles that have had this great motor fitted to and the electrics side is the real stumbling block! So to do it in a cost effective manner is ideal!

Thanks a lot for the good words!