KDJ95 Its not running right

[Green Man]

Difficult to say but hopefully you haven’t caused your alternator to give a spike when it took up charge when the charger was switched off.

Next step is SCVs. There’s tests but only swapping them is 100% certain. You could send your ECU away to ECU doctor who would test it for you. I think he doesn’t charge unless he has to fix so might be worth having a word. I’m not sure if swapping the ECU with another truck would work, it may do but if it’s anything like my cursed Smart car, you have to change fusebox, instruments and keys to test.

Easiest step but more costly is to change SCVs. When you do this ensure the area is scrupulously clean so that not one grain of dust gets in while they are out.

Quick caution for anyone thinking of loosening nuts on the the common rail system. Use extreme caution and wear gloves and goggles plus shield with a towel when this is done. These systems operate up to 30,000 psi and there can be residual pressures after switch off. Don’t even consider it while the engine is running. Fluid can pass through skin at these pressures and the only way to get it back out is to remove flesh. Not nice! Best thing is to avoid doing it at all.

Yep a friend of mine told me about the pressure these things operate at i was very careful.

I have ordered new scv's my only concern is that the truck has gone from running poor to not running at all but i have fuel to the pump until it gets to the feed pipe to the common rail. I dont get why its not running at all

 

[StarCruiser]

The SCVs control admission of fuel so if clogged or inoperative they would stop it working (I guess). I think they operate as fuel shut off too but others may know for sure. Clogging could be an issue if the fuel filter let crud through. Worth looking at the old valves when they come out. Have you checked for wiring damage? There may be a test for output to the SCVs from the ECU.

 

[Green Man]

The SCVs control admission of fuel so if clogged or inoperative they would stop it working (I guess). I think they operate as fuel shut off too but others may know for sure. Clogging could be an issue if the fuel filter let crud through. Worth looking at the old valves when they come out. Have you checked for wiring damage? There may be a test for output to the SCVs from the ECU.

I will have a look I managed to find a pdf of 1kd ftv engine repair manual Thanks

 

[Green Man]

For anybody who is interested here is the link for a pdf of the 1KD-FTV engine repair manual
http://gershon.ucoz.com/_ld/0/3_1KD-FTV_Prado-2.pdf

 

[Chris]

Neighbour had similar issue, turned out to be a sensor. Can't recall - O2 or MAF - whatever. Anyway, swapped it out and it went like a bomb.

 

[StarCruiser]

Neighbour had similar issue, turned out to be a sensor. Can't recall - O2 or MAF - whatever. Anyway, swapped it out and it went like a bomb.

Crank position sensor would cause total stop Chris, MAF and O2 should throw a code and Check Engine Light but it’s a good call nonetheless. Worth checking the crank position sensor for damage, damaged wiring or displacement. It’s unlikely but worth a quick check. I would think if it was bad (they are usually only a coil round a magnet) there would be a code and CEL would be lit.
Wasn’t there something about capacitors going bad in an ECU?

 

[Chris]

Sorry Rich, missed that. Where did OP say it came to a total stop? I thought this was about being very low on power. Neighbour got no lights at all saying there was an issue When she was in a grassy field she couldn't pull away unless she put it in low range to get to the road. On tarmac, it would drive, but had no guts. Like I say, changed the MAF or whatever and it was fixed.

 

[ren]

Post 32 updates to a non-running state.

I have zero experience with the KDJ95 but am aware that on some other vehicles a bad MAF does not always throw a code. On most vehicles if the MAF is the culprit then disconnecting will result in a default guessed setting which will at least start the vehicle IF the MAF was the problem.
Rich is right that Crank sensor would cause a complete stop so a quick check to see if anything wiring wise has come loose would be worth it but SCV does sound likely if clogged and hopefully the new ones will sort it.

 

[Chris]

Right, that said it wouldn't start, not that it stopped. And then it fired up with a jump start as there wasn't enough juice to get it going by the sound of it. Just trying to be clear on what it is we're trying to answer rather than what we think was said guys.

 

[Green Man]

Sorry guys you've been busy just to clarify breifly

Day 1 Left hazards on all night truck
Day 2 wouldnt start put battery charger on started truck started fine 15 min into journey truck lost power I thought it was fuel filter i had this about a year ago changed that no change
Day 3 found a fault on a blink code test air intake temp sensor I found a broken wire and fixed it started truck drove for 20 mins no change.
Day 4 Went to start truck it wouldnt start just kept turning over but no fuel, diesel is getting to pump but not to the common rail
Today I now have scv's so I am going to fit them I also took ecu off and left unplugged overnight I will let you know outcome shortly
fingers crossed thanks for your help so far

 

[Chris]

Fingers and toes crossed for you.

 

[Green Man]

Well all back together and still wont start Im at a loss

 

[StarCruiser]

Hmmm!
Have you checked all fuses?
Is there definitely no wiring damage or corrosion in plugs?
Will the primer pump pump diesel round so that it becomes somewhat harder to press down?
Have you tried clearing the fuel from the pump and lines and running from a can of diesel? There could be wrong fuel there.
Why did you have hazards going may I ask?

Does the manual have any troubleshooting tests on the SCVs and other fuel related electrics?

I think if all the above checks out the next step is to have a chat with the ECU doctor and get him to test your ECU if he can.

 

[Green Man]

Hmmm!
Have you checked all fuses?
Yep checked fuses will do again this morning

Is there definitely no wiring damage or corrosion in plugs?
Not what i can see but will double check this morning

Will the primer pump pump diesel round so that it becomes somewhat harder to press down?
Yep gets really tight then when I turn it over it obviously goes lose again because it gets pushed in to the return I presume.

Have you tried clearing the fuel from the pump and lines and running from a can of diesel? There could be wrong fuel there.
Yep tried that

Why did you have hazards going may I ask?
Backing my trailer up my track off the road on a bend, got some mad drivers round here

Does the manual have any troubleshooting tests on the SCVs and other fuel related electrics?
Yes I Have tried all the tests seem normal

I think if all the above checks out the next step is to have a chat with the ECU doctor and get him to test your ECU if he can.

I think its the ECU I wonder if I got one from a scrap yard it would plug and play
Nobody around here seems to do ECU repairs it would mean sending it off and waiting I need to get back fencing.

 

[Higgy]

I think its the ECU I wonder if I got one from a scrap yard it would plug and play
Nobody around here seems to do ECU repairs it would mean sending it off and waiting I need to get back fencing.

Do you know anyone with the same vehicle.( I take it its a D4d) a straight swap from another truck should tell you something.. Landcruisers don't tend to end up in scrapyards.. more your specific breaker.. so to borrow an ecu just to try would be your best option... Hope you get it sorted.. ps where are you..

 

[Green Man]

Do you know anyone with the same vehicle.( I take it its a D4d) a straight swap from another truck should tell you something.. Landcruisers don't tend to end up in scrapyards.. more your specific breaker.. so to borrow an ecu just to try would be your best option... Hope you get it sorted.. ps where are you..

Hi Higgy just been reading your other post I am near Norwich Norfolk I dont know anyone with a Land Cruiser near me yes it a D4d 1KD-FTV

 

[StarCruiser]

As I say, I’m not certain a straight swap would work as ECUs are often coded with other parts but I don’t know one way or the other with this truck. Make certain the other simple things are done. Also the pump on these will be crank driven. I expect this to be with the timing belt but it could be a separate belt. Worth a check to see that all is well there as it’s free.

Yes you would have to send your ECU away but he generally turns them round very quickly and datapost there and back means around 2 days or so without it. Worth the chat at the very least.

 

[Higgy]

Hi Higgy just been reading your other post I am near Norwich Norfolk I dont know anyone with a Land Cruiser near me yes it a D4d 1KD-FTV

It was just a thought iv known folk just do a swap and it sorts things out.... A mate did a swap same problem but a Mitsubishi. but when he gave the good one back.. and popped his knackered one back in it crackled into life and has never been a problem since ... I know its way off topic but I had same symptoms with a JD tractor . it never moved for 3 days.. they finally swapped the ECU. ... And off I went. it was one of the first JD tractors that was common rail.. Sorry just a story about a tractor

 

[Green Man]

I did check timing belt and moved it to make sure the marks were in the right place and they were fine. Better send the ECU off.

 

[Higgy]

I did check timing belt and moved it to make sure the marks were in the right place and they were fine. Better send the ECU off.

I know its a crude suggestion, But have you tried giving it a quick sniff of easy start... if it starts briefly on the sniff..then at least you can start looking at other possibilities of problem... its crude but try it.. it will only knock its tits of briefly..