Key stuck in ignition!

[Justin_Elliott]

Hi all....

Been having a few issues whilst on holiday - the key stuck in the ignition and wouldn't turn (stuck between off and acc).... after plenty of plusgas/wd40 & a little persuasion I managed to get it moving again...

A week later it completely jammed... had to hot wire it in order to keep moving & return home - relying on the immobiliser for security!

Anyone know of a technique to free up the little brass sliders in the barrel or should I look at alternative options?

 

[adrianr]

graphite powder?

 

[Justin_Elliott]

Does the lock need to move for this to work? Its still jammed solid....

 

[adrianr]

erm not that sure - can you take barrel out and have a look see for better access?

 

[Justin_Elliott]

Can't seem to remove the barrel itself from the carrier... but some access from behind its definitely worth a try though... so thanks.

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

As far as I am aware, if the key is stuck in the 1st position then the barrel will cone straight out with the key if you depress the small plunger in the outer body of the barrel. From memory it faces down.

hope this helps
Andy

 

[Justin_Elliott]

I've managed to get the barrel/cylinder assembly out (see pic below) - but can't get the key to turn freely in its barrel...

Looking down the rear of the cylinder I can see the small brass sliders aren't moving freely... but can't strip it any further...


Will try the graphite powder - but if all else fails I'm considering replacing the key start with toggle/push switches.... (with increased theft prevention of course!).

Like these:
http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/product/Swit ... l_3_SWPN3#

 

[Michael1953]

My 100 series has a similar problem. My daughter did not turn the key to lock fully before removing the key.
The barrel was stuck between ACC and Lock. The key goes in and out ok but won’t turn.
Temporary fix. On the underside of the steering lock is a small spring pin. Turn as far to ACC as you can and force the pin in. I used a 2” nail with a flat end. It is brutal but doesn’t damage anything. This allows you to remove the lock body. You have to un clip the little wiring harness and remove the light ring etc but this is the easy part.

When you look at the back end of the lock you can see two slots running around the outside of the barrel at about 14mm diameter. At the bottom of one of them is a brass plate that is jamming the barrel. It is about 35 or 40 mm deep and hard to see. I managed to push it back a couple of times over the years... I know... a slow learner.
Last night I could not free it so using a carbide burr in a Dremel I cut away the die cast body above the position of the brass plates that were jamming the barrel and ground them off. The barrel rotated freely after that until the brass plates came loose and fell out. Good riddance. Now all is good.

I did vastly more than described above to try and fix the problem but this was all I needed to do.

 

[Tipper]

Try soaking the barrel in vinegar for a couple of days. The vinegar will clean the brass.

 

[Shayne]

Graphite powder is what pro locksmiths use , it lubricates and builds on worn keys i believe .

 

[Dave2000]

I get called to jammed locks quite a bit. Using anything other than graphite powder causes dust to collect and jam the workings.

regards

Dave